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EN
This work deals with prediction of the quantities of sewing threads required to sew a garment using cover stitches for the different classes of 600 (602, 605 and 607 cover stitches) by performing a rapid and precise methods (Geometrical and statistical). Sewing consumption value was estimated based on the geometrical method of different cover stitch shapes to prevent inventory of stocks for each stitch type. In the prediction of the sewing thread consumption for each investigated stitch, it was assumed that the consumption is a function of the input parameters, such as material thickness, stitch density, yarn linear density, and seam width. In addition, a statistical method based on multi-linear regression was established. The coefficient R2 value was determined to evaluate the precision of the geometrical and statistical methods. By comparing the theoretical thread consumption with the experimental ones, it is concluded that the geometrical method is more accurate than the statistical method regarding the range of R2 (from 98.78% to 99.38%), which encouraged industrialists to use geometrical models to predict thread consumption. The input parameters contributing to the sewing thread consumption behavior were studied and analyzed. It was concluded that the most important parameters influencing thread consumption are stitch density followed by seam width. Both yarn density and material thickness have a low contribution to the thread consumption value.
2
Content available remote Wpływ nastawy prądu na zmiany wielkości geometrycznych przekrojów napoin
PL
W pracy przedstawiono zagadnienie określania zmian nastaw prądu napawania i odpowiadające temu zmiany uzyskiwanych przekrojów napoin w przypadku użycia drutu litego. Wykorzystywane do tego celu próby pozwalają zdaniem autorów z dużą dokładnością określić liczbę wykonywanych ściegów dla zadanych przekrojów napoin i spoin. W pracy przedstawiono wyniki badań nad wielkościami geometrycznymi złącza wykonanego przy zmieniających się parametrach prądu przy nastawach 150, 200, 250, 300 A. Wykonano próby napawania z automatycznym posuwem palnika, przy wykorzystaniu materiału dodatkowego w postaci drutu litego o średnicy 1,2 mm. Uzyskane napoiny zostały poddane badaniom metalograficznym makroskopowym i przeanalizowane pod kątem uzyskanej geometrii ściegu.
EN
The paper presents the problem of determining changes in the settings of the welding current and corresponding to the change in cross-section welds obtained when using solid wire. Used for this purpose according to the authors attempt to allow has impact on the basic parameters characterizing the welded joint. The paper presents results of research on geometric quantities joint made at changing the parameters set welding current by settings of 150, 200, 250, 300 A. Tests were carried out with automatic feed welding torch, using the additive material with diameter of 1.2 mm. The resulting welds have been tested and analyzed metallographic macroscopic for checking geometry.
3
Content available remote Designing Functional Clothes for Persons with Locomotor Disabilities
EN
The life quality improvement issue is a problem of national and international interest. This acquires total different values when it is to refer to a series of disadvantaged categories, that is the persons with locomotor disabilities. It is an inevitable social responsibility to create equal opportunities for disabled people, to prevent any intentional or unintentional discrimination that they face and apply positive discrimination if necessary to improve their living standards and to let them have an equal share from social development as productive individuals of society. A disability is any kind of restriction or inability to accomplish a certain activity, which belongs to the interval considered as “normal” for a human being. Disabilities are characterized by deficiencies or excesses in the activity or behaviour that is normally expected from a person; they can be temporary or permanent, reversible or irreversible, progressive or regressive. The physical disabilities that require the use of wheelchairs imply the manufacturing of special clothing products that meet certain needs at a functional and/or therapeutic level. The study presents the main aspects involved in designing and developing textile products for this category of users. Therefore, the apparel that is specially designed for persons with disabilities has to: allow more freedom and independence when is being worn, correspond to the aesthetic point of view, offer psychological benefits and help to socially integrate the individual who wears it. In addition, clothes should not hinder the individual’s mobility and must allow the use of the chest and of the superior limbs to the maximum, they must be durable, have a low level of electrostatic charge, be absorbent and comfortable, present the so-called “rehabilitation functions”, and last but not least, be beneficial for the wearer both from a physical and psychological point of view.
EN
In single needle lockstitch sewing machines, the needle thread consumption of 10 normal stitches for a fabric with a particular number of layers at a particular stitches per unit length is manually measured kept as a reference value. If the value of needle thread consumed per stitch is very small, the length of thread consumed per 10 stitches is used as a comparing value. The actual thread consumed for every 10 stitches is measured online by a rotary optical encoder sensor by converting the angular movement into the linear movement of the thread and continually compared with the reference value. If the online measured length is more or less a buzzer sounds to indicate the variation. The counting of every stitch formed is undertaken by a proximity sensor by sensing the protrusion in the hand wheel of the machine, which rotates once for every rotation.
EN
In the sewing process, the sewing thread is perceived as the weakest, the most unreliable element. The conducted for many years research concerning the thread working conditions in the stitch formation zone indicates that the needle thread in the lockstitch sewing machine yields the highest destruction. As the origin of the thread destruction in the sewing process, the thread serial loading generated by the machine tool action in the stitch formation cycle is considered. lt has been stated that in the most of the analysed cases, the maximum of the dynamic tension generated within the single machine working cycle is connected with the action of the thread take-up during the stitch tightening stage. The course of the stage is strongly connected with the geometrical characteristies of the 3-element system: the sewing thread - the machine needle - the textile material. In the technological practice, for the given kind of fabric, the stitch tightening resistance may be shaped by the appropriate selection of the sewing thread dimensions and also the needle metric count. In the paper, the analysis of potential possibilities of shaping the stitch tightening resistance will be presented. The starting point for the analysis will be experimental research carried out using the tensile machine and original methodology, worked out in the Department of Clothing Technology.
EN
In the sewing process, the sewing thread is perceived as the weakest, the most unreliable element. The conducted for many years research concerning the thread working conditions in the stitch formation zone indicates that the needle thread in the lockstitch sewing machine yields the highest destruction. As the origin of the thread destruction in the sewing process, the thread serial loading generated by the machine tool action in the stitch formation cycle is considered. It has been stated that in the most of the analysed cases, the maximum of the dynamic tension generated within the single machine working cycle is connected with the action oft he thread take-up during the stitch tightening stage. The course of the stage is strongly connected with the geometrical characteristics of the 3-element system: the sewing thread - the machine needle - the textile material. In the technological practice, for the given kind of fabric, the stitch tightening resistance may be shaped by the appropriate selection of the sewing thread dimensions and also the needle metric count. In the paper, the analysis of potential possibilities of shaping the stitch tightening resistance will be presented. The starting point for the analysis will be experimental research carried out using the tensile machine and original methodology, worked out in the Department of Clothing Technology.
7
Content available remote Ocena procesu spawania GMAW na podstawie zwarć
PL
Przedstawiono rezultaty badań w zakresie monitorowania procesu i zastosowania charakterystyki dynamicznej łuku do oceny jakości układanych ściegów. Badania prowadzono dla procesu spawania ze zwarciowym przechodzeniem metalu do tworzonego ściegu. Przedstawiono poszczególne fazy pracy łuku spawalniczego. Wykazano, że istotne znaczenie dla powstawania ściegu bez wad ma faza zwarcia. W fazie tej określono parametry odpowiedzialne za jakość układanego ściegu. Podano kryteria, których przestrzeganie pozwala na wyeliminowanie powstawania wadliwych ściegów.
EN
Results of monitoring the welding process using the dynamic characteristics of the arc to the assessment of the quality beads is presented. The researches have been done for the process of welding with short circuit passing of metal to the created bead. Individual phases of the work of welding arc is shown. Very important for beading without faults is the phase of the short circuit. In this phase the parameters responsible for the quality of the arranged bead were determined. Criteria, obeying of which allows for eliminating faulty formation of beads were given.
8
Content available remote The effect of welding fixtures on welding distortions
EN
Purpose: of this paper is to examine the effect of welding fixture used to prevent the distortions during cooling process utilizing a robot controlled gas metal arc welding method on cooling rate and distortions of welded structures. Design/methodology/approach: Using a specially designed welding fixture for a welded steel structure, six different types of AISI 1020 steel specimens are tested in three different welding speeds and two different cooling conditions either at fixture or without using fixture. Findings: designed fixture is reduced amount of distortions. The preheating effect of previous weld on the next weld has increased distortions on the other side of part. Increase in distortions is directly proportional to the increase in welding speed which affects the weld heat input. Research limitations/implications: the study can be repeated on more complex structures and fixtures. Practical implications: the study has shown that the fixture design has an important effect on cooling rate of the welded parts. Originality/value: most of papers in literature is about fixture design methodology, but this paper is an example of demonstration for a practically applied welding fixture.
EN
This paper proves relations, which concern the structure of knitted fabric by using a simple geometrical model. In addition, a series of graphics are made which allow fast, simple and effective analysis of the relations between some of the parameters of the knitting process and these of the ready-knit fabric. The quantity "relative geometrical prolongation of the thread length in the stitch", introduced by me plays a significant role in this study. The relations given below allow the machine gauge to be defined; this helps to produce knit fabric with precisely calculated density by choosing appropriate values for the thread's sinking depth and acceptable average geometrical prolongation.
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