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2 Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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Hidden Messages: Connotation analysis of Textile Trademarks in the Republic of China (1912-1949)

Cong Tianzhu, Zhang Yi, Shen Linlin, Cui Rongrong

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

2023

Vol. 31, no. 2

56--64

This study analyses trademarks of the textile industry issued between 1912–1949 in the Republic of China, revealing the trademarks’ art features and hidden messages. The trademarks’ images and information folders were critically examined within their historical context. The work, by analysing the themes and patterns of the trademarks, revealed that the people-oriented conception, humanistic spirit, nationalist sentiment and the multiple connotations of era development were behind the trademarks, which answers questions about the social connotations of textile trademarks of the Republic of China and also gives us some guidance to understand how to use these connotations for innovation trademark design to inherit better traditional culture in the future.

Cultural Interaction: The Transformation of Textile design for Traditional Cheongsam in the Republic of China

Zhang Jingnan, Zhang Yi, Cui Rongrong

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

2022

Vol. 30, no. 6

19--26

This paper aims to discuss the artistic characteristics of traditional cheongsam and the transformation that has taken place in cheongsam textile design in the Republic of China. By analysing a collection consisting of 259 traditional cheongsam material samples in various museums such as the China Silk Archives in Suzhou, we explored the transformation of cheongsam textile design during the Republic of China from the perspective of Eastern and Western art cultural exchanges and explored the spread of Western artistic thought in China. Our search shows that, firstly, with the development of industrialization, the traditional cheongsam textile business absorbed new design concepts; secondly, in terms of material selection and pattern style, it widened the range of fabrics used and broke the monotony of traditional Chinese patterns. Moreover, it reduced connotations of social class implied by traditional textile design. Finally, these textile designs reflect the progress that has been made in the development of this artistic trend and the cultural fusion of Eastern and Western arts during the Republic of China.