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Design Method of Circular Weft-Knitted Jacquard Fabric Based on Jacquard Module

Zheng Peixiao, Jiang Gaoming, Cong Honglian

Autex Research Journal

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2022

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Vol. 22, no. 2

217--224

EN

Recently, there is an increasing interest in design of circular weft jacquard because of the pursuit of fashion and comfort. Aiming at the complexity of the computer-aided design method of the existing circular weft-knitted jacquard fabrics, which is not conducive to the rapid design and intelligible for designers, a design method was proposed to transform pattern notation into knitting diagram efficiently, which was based on knitting rules and its creation as a set of jacquard modules. Knitting characteristics of jacquard fabrics were studied as a precondition. On this basis, the design procedures of jacquard modules were analyzed and illustrated by taking tricolor bird's eye backing jacquard as an example. Jacquard modules with various jacquard effects were designed and stored in a jacquard module database. To mathematically describe pattern notation, knitting diagram, and jacquard module, two-dimensional matrixes were established by the method of mathematical modeling, and a corresponding algorithm for the transformation of the pattern to knitting information according to the knitting rules of jacquard modules, which can be applied to ordinary jacquard fabrics was summarized. The project of tricolor circular weft-knitted jacquard with bird's eye in the reverse and four-color air-layer jacquard were taken for instance to verify the models and algorithm. The results obtained show that the approach can efficiently and conveniently realize the designation and machine-knitting of weft-knitted jacquard fabric, which provide a theoretical basis and notation of modeling for the computer-aided design of circular weft-knitted jacquard fabrics.

2

Preparation of Polypyrrole/Silver Conductive Polyester Fabric by UV Exposure

Wang Xiaofei, Wan Ailan, Jiang Gaoming, Raji Rafiu King, Yu Dongzheng

Autex Research Journal

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2021

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Vol. 21, no. 2

231--237

EN

In this study, polypyrrole/silver (PPy/Ag) conductive polyester fabric was synthesized via an in-situ polymerization method under UV exposure, using silver nitrate (AgNO3) as an oxidizing agent in the presence of sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate (SDBS) and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). The effect of the preparation processes on the properties of the conductive fabric was studied experimentally, and the optimal preparation process of the conductive fabric was obtained. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) showed the chemical structural properties of the PPy/Ag conductive polyester fabric. X-ray diffraction (XRD) confirmed the presence of silver nanoparticles in the prepared material. Furthermore, subsequent test results proved that the PPy/Ag conductive polyester fabric prepared by UV irradiation had good electrical conductivity and antibacterial property. The sheet resistance of the prepared conductive fabric was 61.54 Ω • sq−1.

3

Changeover Process Assessment of Warp-Knitting Let-Off Equipped with Multispeed Electronic Let-Off System

Ji Yong, Jiang Gaoming 1, Tang Mengting

Autex Research Journal

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2021

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Vol. 21, no. 3

299--304

EN

Warp-knitted fabrics have gained increasing attention due to their excellent properties, and their production is strongly dependent on the warp-based electronic let-off system. Most of the existing control systems are single speed electron let-off structure, which brings a series of issues such as broken yarn, missed needle, and running thread caused by let-off delay, making it hard for manufacturer to produce the required fabrics. To fill the gap, this article proposes a new framework of a multispeed electronic let-off system for warp knitting based on closed-loop control strategy. As a demonstration of the capacity and generalizability of this newly proposed methodology, the 01-type four-channel acoustic vibration analyzer is used to test and analyze the time of switching, the let-off amounts, and the change in warp tension during the process of switching let-off amounts, including the explanation and comparison of difference values of let-off quantities. It is shown that the proposed method for the production of warp-knitted fabrics is a useful method for achieving digital manufacture of warp-knitted fabrics.

4

Two-Stage Discrete Mechanical Modelin Three-Dimensional Space for Garment Simulation

Luo Xuan, Jiang Gaoming, Cong Honglian

Autex Research Journal

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2019

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Vol. 19, no. 1

26--35

EN

This paper focuses on the better performance between the garment simulation result and the simulation speed. For simplicity and clarity, a notation “PART” is defined to indicate the areas between the garment and the human body satisfying some constraints. The discrete mechanical model can be achieved by the two-stage process. In the first stage, the garment can be divided into several PARTs constrained by the distance. In the second stage, the mechanical model of each PART is formulated with a mathematical expression. Thus, the mechanical model of the garment can be obtained. Through changing the constrained distance, the simulation result and the simulation speed can be observed. From the variable distance, a desired value can be chosen for an optimal value. The results of simulations and experiments demonstrate that the better performance can be achieved at a higher speed by saving runtime with the acceptable simulation results and the efficiency of the proposed scheme can be verified as well.

5

Sustainable Improvements for Customized Platform Effectiveness in Garment Production

Ji Yong, Jiang Gaoming, Cong Honglian

Autex Research Journal

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2019

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Vol. 19, no. 4

355--362

EN

This study uses sustainable development theory to analyze China’s garment industry, which has been under pressure of high energy consumption, excess capacity and environmental pollution. The purpose of this work is to explore customized platform effectiveness on fashion design and production by the integration of clothing ceo-design (CED) and clothing life cycle evaluation. By cooperation and data analyses, garment companies come into being, which provides information for the study on customized platform effectiveness. Meanwhile, this paper begins with addressing the potential problems for fashion design, production and inventory management, making a distinction between garment virtual design (GVD)and personalized garment customization (PGC) and suggesting a useful computer-aided approach for fashion design and production process. The data and information were gathered from garment companies in China. This work presents the findings from case study research into sustainable improvements for fashion design and production in the garment industry; in this way, the level of customized platform may be compared and analyzed, which is a significant growth point of sustainable improvements for this research and practice domain.

6

Rapid Parametric Human Modeling in 3D Garment Simulation

Peng Jiajia, Jiang Gaoming, Cong Honglian

Autex Research Journal

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2019

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Vol. 19, no. 1

60--67

EN

To realize 3D garment simulation online and show the wearing effect of different body types, a method for rapid parametric human modeling is proposed in this article. The parameterization consists of two phases. In the first phase, the characteristic parameters of the sample model are extracted according to the different types of feature information. In the second phase, the deformation is realized by combining the axial deformation method and the radial weight. Thus, according to contrasts between the input measurement and the sample sizes, parametric human modeling is realized by deformation of the sample model. In the deformation stage, the axis curve is simplified to the straight-line segment in the axis deformation method, reducing the calculation. Comparative analysis and the results of experiments demonstrate that the better performance can be achieved at a higher speed, and this method realizes real-time parametric human modeling.

7

Filtration Property of Monofilament Core–Shell Mesh Fabric Treated Via Tourmaline Hot Coating

Mao Haiwen, Ma Pibo, Jiang Gaoming

Autex Research Journal

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2019

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Vol. 19, no. 2

127--133

EN

In this study, woven fabrics with numerous electrostatic charges and desirable charge stability were investigated. A kind of core–shell monofilaments with different melting points between outer and inner layers were applied to wove the fabrics. These fabrics were hot coated through tourmaline particles as an charge enhancer at 122°C. Benefiting from the anions released by tourmaline particles and optimized content of the particles, the fabrics were endowed with surface potentials from −10 to −160 V and the voids content decreased from 45.4% to 41.2%, which contribute to the improvement in the filtration performance of the fabrics. A filtration mechanism was proposed while incremental surface charges with increasing tourmaline particles content have been confirmed through the noncontact measurement of electrostatic charges. The resultant fabrics exhibited a high filtration efficiency of 64.8% and superior long-term service performance. This study can provide a new application of the screen window for PM 2.5 governance.