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1
Content available remote Skin Cancer and UV Protection
EN
The incidence of skin cancer is increasing by epidemic proportions. Basal cell cancer remains the most common skin neoplasm, and simple excision is generally curative. On the other hand, aggressive local growth and metastasis are common features of malignant melanoma, which accounts for 75% of all deaths associated with skin cancer. The primary cause of skin cancer is long exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) crossed with the amount of skin pigmentation and family genetics. It is believed that in childhood and adolescence, 80% of UV-R gets absorbed while in the remaining, 20 % gets absorbed later in the lifetime. This suggests that proper and early photoprotection may reduce the risk of subsequent occurrence of skin cancer. Reducing the exposure time to sunlight, using sunscreens and protective textiles are the three ways of UV protection. Most people think that all the clothing will protect them, but it does not provide full sun screening properties. Literature sources claim that only 1/3 of the spring and summer collections tested give off proper UV protection. This is very important during the summer months, when UV index is the highest. Fabric UV protection ability highly depends on large number of factors such as type of fiber, fabric surface, construction, porosity, density, moisture content, type and concentration of dyestuff, fluorescent whitening agents, UV-B protective agents (UV absorbers), as well as nanoparticles, if applied. For all of these reasons, in the present paper, the results of UV protecting ability according to AS/NZS 4399:1996 will be discussed to show that standard clothing materials are not always adequate to prevent effect of UV-R to the human skin; and to suggest the possibilities for its improvement for this purpose enhancing light conversion and scattering. Additionally, the discrepancy in UV protection was investigated in distilled water as well as Adriatic Sea water.
2
Content available remote Light Conversion and Scattering in UV Protective Textiles
EN
The primary cause of skin cancer is believed to be a long exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) crossed with the amount of skin pigmentation in the population. It is believed that in childhood and adolescence 80% of UV-R gets absorbed, whilst in the remaining 20% gets absorbed later in the lifetime. This suggests that proper and early photoprotection may reduce the risk of subsequent occurrence of skin cancer. Textile and clothing are the most suitable interface between environment and human body. It can show UV protection, but in most cases it does not provide full sun screening properties. UV protection ability highly depends on large number of factors such as type of fibre, fabric surface and construction, type and concentration of dyestuff, fluorescent whitening agent (FWA), UV-B protective agents, as well as nanoparticles, if applied. Based on electronically excited state by energy of UV-R (usually 340-370 nm), the molecules of FWAs show the phenomenon of fluorescence giving to white textiles high whiteness of outstanding brightness by reemitting the energy at the blue region (typically 420-470 nm) of the spectrum. By absorbing UV-A radiation, optical brightened fabrics transform this radiation into blue fluorescence, which leads to better UV protection. Natural zeolites are rock-forming, microporous silicate minerals. Applied as nanoparticles to textile surface, it scatters the UV-R resulting in lower UV-A and UV-B transmission. If applied with other UV absorbing agents, e.g. FWAs, synergistic effect occurs. Silicones are inert, synthetic compounds with a variety of forms and uses. It provides a unique soft touch, is very resistant to washing and improves the property of fabric to protect against UV radiation. Therefore, the UV protective properties of cotton fabric achieved by light conversion and scattering was researched in this paper. For that purpose, the stilbene-derived FWAs were applied on cotton fabric in wide concentration range without/with the addition of natural zeolite or silicone- polydimethylsiloxane. UV protection was determined in vitro through ultraviolet protection factor. Additionally, the influence to fabric whiteness and hand was researched.
EN
Interface phenomena have a significant role in the wet finishing processes. Therefore in this paper the electrokinetic phenomena of cotton fabric cationised with a commercial cationic compound were researched. After cationisation, characterisation of the surface and chemical composition was performed by FTIR-ATR. Electokinetic phenomena - Zeta potential, Isoelectric point (IEP) and Point of zero charge (PZC), were determined according to the streaming current/streaming potential method and a specific amount of surface charge according to the back-titration method. The affinity of such modified cotton to reactive dyestuff of different functional groups was investigated through the K/S values. The influence of electrolyte addition to the dye bath was investigated as well.
PL
Zjawiska występujące na granicy faz odgrywają znaczącą rolę w mokrych procesach wykończeniowych, dlatego w niniejszej pracy zbadane zostały zjawiska elektrokinetyczne występujące w kationizowanej handlowym związkiem kationowym tkaninie bawełnianej. Po kationizacji przeprowadzono charakterystykę powierzchni i składu chemicznego używając do tego celu spektroskopii FTIR ATR. Zjawiska elektrokinetyczne tj. potencjał elektrokinetyczny, punkt izoelektryczny (IEP) i punkt ładunku zerowego (PZC) zostały ustalone zgodnie z metodą prądu/potencjału strumieniowego, a charakterystyczną wielkość ładunku powierzchniowego określono metodą miareczkowania odwrotnego. Powinowactwo zmodyfikowanej bawełny do barwnika reaktywnego różnych grup funkcyjnych było badane przez określenie wartości K/S. Badano również wpływ dodatku elektrolitu do kąpieli barwiącej.
EN
Important characteristics of softening cotton knitted fabrics in the process of knitwear sewing and the influence of softening on the reduction of the sewing needle penetration force (snpf) are presented. The application of a measuring system for testing the snpf is discussed and loop damages are described. The reduction of the snpf and of loop damages in knitwear sewing is investigated by needling and stitching of double-face single-rib cotton knitted fabrics, considering fabric finishing, the type and concentration of the softener used, sewing needle gauges, thread count and the number of fabric layers.
PL
W artykule przedstawiono wpływ zmiękczania zszywanych dzianin bawełnianych na zmniejszenie siły penetracji igły. Opisano zastosowany system pomiarowy dla określania siły penetracji igły oraz ilości uszkodzeń oczek dziewiarskich. Zmniejszenie siły penetracji i ilości uszkodzeń badano na przykładzie bawełnianych dzianin dwuprawych. W badaniach uwzględniono wykończenie dzianiny, typ i stężenie zmiękczacza, numerację igieł, grubość nitki i ilość warstw dzianiny.
5
Content available remote Determination of the Size Coat
EN
The determination of the size coat will be described as it has been done so far. According to the laboratory determination of size coat by desizing (by cooking) and the quantum method (by drying), some differences have been identified. By desizing the size coat showed a higher percentage, so that it can be ascertained that by cooking, in addition to the size, a part of fibres and dirt was removed from the yarn, leading to a fault in determining the size coat. The analysis proved that the quantum method for determining the size coat, as the most accurate, is the most approximate to the continuous measurement based on the substance's content.
PL
Dokonano przeglądu dotychczas stosowanych metod oznaczania pokrycia klejonką nitek osnowy. Stwierdzono różnicę w wynikach pomiędzy laboratoryjną metodą usuwania klejonki poprzez gotowanie oraz metodą suszenia powlekanych i niepowlekanych odcinków nitek. Przy usuwaniu klejonki uzyskuje się wyniki zawyżone. Błąd ten wynika z tego, że przy gotowaniu oddzielają się od nitki również brud i części włókna. Analiza wykazała, że druga metoda jest dokładniejsza i na niej powinny być oparte metody ciągłego pomiaru.
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