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EN
The performances and properties of the fine hairs from the coats of several domestic and wild mammals, namely the "speciality animal fibres" used for manufacturing high quality, luxury textiles, are influenced by the domestication process, heritability, hybridisation, nutrition, and life environment. In this work, the fibre morphology and cell structures of fibres from wild, domestic and crossbred goats were studied, with the aim of investigating the relationships with the thermal behaviour of the crystalline fraction of the fibres. Scanning Electron Microscopy investigation confirmed that exposure to thermal excursions and nutritional stresses lead to finer hair, associated with lower rate of growth, yielding strong orientation and elongation of the cuticle cells in the direction of the fibre axis. Transmitted Light Microscopy and Differential Scanning Calorimetry revealed specie-specific differences in the internal structure of the fibre cortex, probably related also to moisture during the process of hair keratinisation.
2
Content available remote Studies on keratin/cellulose films from cuprammonium solution
EN
This work deals with the preparation and characterisation of keratin/cellulose films prepared by coagulating polymers blends from cuprammonium solution. Films were obtained by blending keratin extracted from wool by m-bisulphite/urea solution and cellulose in several proportions. The molecular weight distributions of extracted and regenerated protein were studied by gel-electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE); the chemical structure and molecular conformation were investigated by FT-IR spectroscopy; the surface morphology of the films was observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM).
EN
Surface degradation of linen fabric induced by laser treatment with the aim of reproducing an image was investigated and compared with the degradation induced by an electron beam and a heat source. The results confirm that the brown shades obtained by the laser beam are mainly due to surface tar formation, and that the degradation pattern is similar to that observed by treatment with an electron beam. Surface thermal treatment, however, showed different fibre behaviour.
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