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1
Content available remote Application of Dean's curve to investigation of a long-term evolution of the southern Baltic multi-bar shore profile
Cerkowniak G. R., Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z.
Oceanologia
|
2017
|
No. 59 (1)
18--27
EN
The paper presents the results of studies on the long-term evolution of the multi-bar cross-shore profiles. The analysis is focused on time-dependent variability of shoreline position, a modified parameter A of the conventional Dean's equation and a parameter F describing the amount of nearshore sediment resources in the multi-bar cross-shore profile. The study also deals with interrelationships between these quantities. The analysis is carried out using field data collected at Lubiatowo, Poland, on the dissipative shore, representative for the south Baltic. The considered coastal segment is found to be stable in the long-term scale. The results of analysis show that the parameter A can either increase or decrease together with the shoreline advance. It is concluded that the shoreline position change is a parameter unsatisfactorily representative for behaviour of the seashore. The use of the Dean's approximation for estimation of the sediment resources F on the multi-bar seashore profiles is found reasonable to eliminate the effects of peculiarities of such shores.
2
Content available remote Groins and submerged breakwaters : new modeling and empirical experience
Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Schönhofer J., Szmytkiewicz M.
Oceanological and Hydrobiological Studies
|
2016
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Vol. 45, No. 1
20--34
EN
The relationship between the effectiveness of groins and their technical condition was studied. The supporting role of groins in artificial shore nourishment was tested using the theoretical modeling of hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the nearshore zone. This modeling scheme was developed as to represent the actual coastal situation occurring on the shores of the Hel Peninsula (the Gulf of Gdańsk, the southern Baltic Sea). Based on the results of computations and the results of field observations, recommendations were prepared on the design and maintenance of groins. The second part of the paper is devoted to submerged breakwaters. The theoretical modeling of wave-current fields near the segmented submerged breakwaters led to the determination of coefficients of wave transmission and rip current velocities, which finally yielded a piece of design advice. In all numerical simulations, the Delft3D software was used.
3
Content available remote Wybrane aspekty hydro- i morfodynamiki brzegu południowego Bałtyku w świetle zjawisk klimatycznych
Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
|
2015
|
nr 5
668--677
PL
Syntetyczne omówienie hydro- i morfodynamicznych procesów strefy brzegowej w kontekście zmienności zarówno globalnych, jak lokalnych obserwowanych zmian klimatycznych. Rozważania na temat oddziaływania globalnych zmian klimatycznych na morfodynamiczne procesy zachodzące w wielorewowej strefie brzegowej południowego Bałtyku o łagodnie nachylonym dnie.
EN
Synthetic discussion of hydro- and morphodynamic coastal processes in the context of observed climatic changes, both global and local. Considerations on impact of the global climatic changes on morphodynamic processes occurring in the multi-bar south Baltic coastal zone with a mildly inclined bottom.
4
Content available remote Teoria głębokości zamknięcia w świetle pomiarów terenowych na wielorewowym brzegu morskim
Cerkowniak G. R., Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Skaja M., Stella M.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
|
2015
|
nr 1
10—17
PL
Koncepcja głębokości zamknięcia. Wyznaczenie odmorskiego zasięgu zmian dennych w oparciu o ekstremalne roczne parametry falowe. Weryfikacja teoretycznego pojęcia na podstawie danych terenowych zebranych w rejonie Morskiego Laboratorium Brzegowego IBW PAN w Lubiatowie. Hipoteza dotycząca znacznego wpływu prądów typowych dla pełnego morza, występujących poza strefą brzegową.
EN
Depth of closure concept. Determination of the offshore range of sea bottom changes by the extreme annual wave parameters. Verification of this theoretical notion by the field data collected at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo. Hypothesis on significant influence of the currents typical for the open sea, beyond the coastal zone.
5
Content available remote Wpływ zmiennego klimatu falowego na różnookresową zmienność nadwodnej części brzegu (plaży)
Chrząstowska N., Pruszak Z.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
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2014
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nr 1
19--30
PL
Analiza wpływu falowania na morfologię plaży. Obliczenie energii falowania głębokowodnego i porównanie z efektami morfodynamicznymi zachodzącymi na brzegu. Opis czasowej zmienności objętości osadów plażowych.
EN
Analysis of the wave impact on the beach morphology. Calculation of the deep-water wave energy and comparison with morphodynamic effects on the coast. Description of time variation of the beach sediments volume.
6
Content available Condition of South-Eastern Baltic Sea Shores and Methods of Protecting Them
Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Babakov A.
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
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2014
|
Vol. 61, nr 1-2
17--37
EN
The paper describes lithodynamic and morphodynamic processes occurring in the main part of the south-eastern Baltic coastal area, namely on the sea shores from the Vistula mouth in the Gulf of Gdansk to the Lithuanian-Latvian border. The study area is subject to intensive natural coastal changes, as well as shore evolution caused by anthropogenic impacts at several locations. Methods of coastal protection against erosion and shore stabilization systems applied in the past and currently are described. The paper deals with the causes of the dynamics of beach/dune shores and cliffs. It presents the authors’ field observations of 2010-2013, as well as previously gained knowledge and the results of Polish, Russian and joint Polish-Russian field surveys.
7
Content available remote Stan brzegów morskich i sposoby ich ochrony w Obwodzie Kaliningradzkim i na Litwie
Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Babakow A.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
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2013
|
nr 3
191--197
PL
Procesy litodynamiczne i morfodynamiczne na rosyjskich brzegach morskich w Obwodzie Kaliningradzkim oraz na Litwie. Osobliwości dynamiki brzegów wywołane wpływami antropogenicznymi. Metody przeciwerozyjnej ochrony i stabilizacji brzegów stosowane w przeszłości i obecnie.
EN
Lithodynamic and morphodynamic processes on the Russian sea shores in Kaliningrad Oblast and on the Lithuanian coast. Peculiarities of coastal dynamics caused by anthropogenic impacts. Methods of coastal protection against erosion and shore stabilization systems applied in the past and currently.
8
Content available remote Oddziaływanie rew na stabilność ruchu falowego w profilu poprzecznym brzegu
Cerkowniak G. R., Pruszak Z.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
|
2013
|
nr 1
14--19
PL
Przyjęto hipotezę, że analogicznie do klasycznej koncepcji Deana dotyczącej uśrednionego położenia dna, głębokości definiowane kolejnymi grzbietami rew hr są w równowadze z lokalną wielkością dyssypacji energii fali, tj. wysokością załamującej się nad nimi fali Hbr. Otrzymano, że parametr Ko = Hbr / hr,i, który określa równowagę pomiędzy dyssypacją energii (wysokością Hbr) fali, a geometrią (wysokością hr,i) rewy steruje układem fizycznym wysokość rewy – dyssypacja energii fali i zmienia się wzdłuż osi x w granicach ∼ 0,3 ÷ 0,6, będąc zależny od odległości kolejnych rew od linii brzegowej oraz okresu fali.
EN
A hypothesis is formulated that, similarly to the classical Dean’s concept concerning the averaged sea bottom position, depths defined by sequential bar crests hr are in equilibrium with local wave energy dissipation, i.e. breaking wave height Hbr. It is found out that the parameter Ko = Hbr / hr,i, which determines the equilibrium between wave energy dissipation (wave height Hbr) and bar geometry (bar height hr,i), controls the physical system: bar height – wave energy dissipation and is variable along x axis in the range ∼ 0,3 ÷ 0,6, depending on the distance of a bar from the shoreline and on the wave period..
9
Content available remote Współczesne doświadczenia i trendy w stosowaniu ostróg jako budowli brzegowych
Pruszak Z., Szmytkiewicz M., Basiński T.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
|
2012
|
nr 1
14-19
PL
Przegląd literatury światowej na temat skuteczności oddziaływania budowli ochronnych rodzaju ostróg na brzeg morski. Analiza parametrów i związków: wpływ morfologii dna na działanie ostróg, współoddziaływanie systemu brzeg – ostroga w obecności sztucznego zasilania, przepuszczalności ostróg oraz wpływ przestrzennej geometrii ostróg i wysokości lub zanurzenie pali tworzących ostrogi na efektywność budowli.
EN
Review of the literature regarding the efficiency of the impact of protection constructions such as groins on the sea coast. Analysis of parameters and relations: impact of seabed morphology on groins efficiency, coast-groins interaction together with artificial shore nourishment, permeability of groins and influence of its spatial geometry and the height and embedding of the piles supporting groins on the efficiency of the constructions.
10
Content available remote Wpływ ostróg na skuteczność sztucznego zasilania brzegów Półwyspu Helskiego
Pruszak Z., Schonhofer J., Skaja M.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
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2012
|
nr 5
593-597
PL
Określenie oddziaływania ostróg na odkładany na brzegu refulat. Symulacje numeryczne dla geometrycznego układu ostróg na Półwyspie Helskim i typowego układu batymetrycznego w strefie brzegowej Półwyspu pokazały, że odłożony materiał w bezpośrednim sąsiedztwie brzegu w polach między ostrogami utrzymuje się o około 30% czasu dłużej niż dla brzegu niezabudowanego.
EN
Determination of the impact of groins on beach fill residence time. Numerical simulations for the geometric layout of groins on the Hel Peninsula and the typical bathymetry in the coastal zone of Peninsula have shown that the residence time of the fill in the immediate vicinity of the shore between the groins grew by approximately 30% with respect to a beach without groins.
11
Content available remote Variability and correlations of shoreline and dunes on the southern Baltic coast (CRS Lubiatowo, Poland)
Pruszak Z., Ostrowski R., Schönhofer J.
Oceanologia
|
2011
|
No. 53 (1)
97-120
EN
The paper analyses the results of field investigations into the evolution of the shoreline and dune toe positions in a multi-bar, dissipative coastal zone. The correlations between the changes in the shoreline and the dune toe range from -0.4 to 0.8. It is most often the case that the dune toe is stable while the shoreline moves. Consistent cross-shore migration is slightly more likely to happen than the divergent or convergent movements of both lines. Shoreline retreat and advance attain respective rates of 0.7 m day-1 and 0.4 m day-1. Deep-water wave energy of about 50 kJ m-1 constitutes the boundary between shore accumulation and erosion.
12
Content available remote Relationships between coastal processes and properties of the nearshore sea bed dynamic layer
Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z.
Oceanologia
|
2011
|
No. 53 (3)
861-880
EN
The paper discusses the notion of a layer of sandy sediments overlying a substratum of cohesive deposits in the coastal zone. This layer of sand is generally more mobile and is therefore conventionally referred to as the dynamic layer. Its parameters are important to coastal lithodynamic and morphodynamic processes caused by waves and currents. On the other hand, the dynamic layer is formed by nearshore hydrodynamic impact. The variability of the features of the dynamic layer on the southern Baltic dune and cliff shores in Poland is analysed on the basis of selected geological data supported by local seismo-acoustic field investigations. It appears that the conventional notion of the dynamic layer makes sense only in specific geomorphologic conditions. In such cases, mostly related to cliff shores, theoretical modelling of sediment transport should take the properties of the dynamic layer into account.
13
Content available remote Przestrzenno-czasowa analiza zmienności linii brzegowej
Pruszak Z.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
|
2011
|
nr 1
10-17
PL
Obszar, warunki i zakres działań. Analiza losowej zmienności linii wzdłużbrzegowej. Metody statystyczno-stochastyczne. Podsumowanie.
EN
Area, conditions and range of activity. The analysis of random evolution of shoreline. Statistical and stochastic methods. Summary.
14
Content available remote Zmienność charakterystyk osadów brzegowych brzegu naturalnego oraz sąsiadującego z zabudową portową
Babakow A., Czubarenko B., Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
|
2010
|
nr 3
409-416
PL
Przestrzenne zróżnicowanie charakterystyk morskich osadów dennych na profilu poprzecznym wydmy, plaży i płytkowodnej strefy przybrzeżnej. Zależność wskaźników litodynamicznych od oddziaływania czynników hydrodynamicznych na naturalnym brzegu morskim i na brzegu poddanym wpływowi sąsiadującej zabudowy portowej na podstawie analizy danych zebranych w Morskim Laboratorium Brzegowym IBW PAN w Lubiatowie i na Mierzei Wiślanej w pobliżu falochronów osłaniających wejście do portu Bałtyjsk.
EN
Spatial variability of seabed sediments on the cross-shore profile of due, beach and shallow water near-shore zone. Dependence of lithodynamic indicators on the impact of hydrodynamic conditions on the natural seashore and that influenced by neighboring harbor infrastructure based on data analysis collected in IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo and on Vistula Spit shore nearby the breakwaters shielding the entrance to Baltijsk harbor.
15
Content available Variability of Hydrodynamic and Lithodynamic Coastal Processes in the East Part of the Gulf of Gdańsk
Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Skaja M., Szmytkiewicz M.
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
|
2010
|
Vol. 57, nr 2
139-153
EN
The paper presents new findings concerning motion of water and sediment in the coastal zone of the east part of the Gulf of Gdańsk, from the Vistula River mouth at Świbno (Poland) to Cape Taran (Russia, Kaliningrad Oblast). The presented study deals with spatial variability of parameters of hydrodynamic and lithodynamic processes which have been subject to theoretical modelling. For the considered coastal segment, deep-water wave conditions reconstructed for a 44-year period have been analysed and transformed to the nearshore zone. Next, velocities of wave-driven longshore currents for the mean statistical year have been calculated, along with the longshore sediment transport rates. Regarding the net longshore sand motion, its detected direction is from Cape Taran towards the Vistula Spit. Very high annual rates of longshore sediment transport have been obtained for the coastal segment at Sambian Peninsula. These rates decrease considerably along the Vistula Spit, reaching zero at a distance of about one third of the Polish part of the Spit, measured from its root. At this location, the net longshore sediment transport (resulting from net longshore wave-current impact) reverses from westward to eastward.
16
Content available Hydrodynamics and Lithodynamics of Dissipative and Reflective Shores in View of Field Investigations
Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Skaja M., Szmytkiewicz M., Trifonova E., Keremedchiev S., Andreeva N.
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
|
2010
|
Vol. 57, nr 3-4
199-218
EN
The paper presents a comparative analysis of physical processes occurring at two different coasts, which belong to two different European seas. The first coast under examination comprises the sandy shore nearby Lubiatowo, located at the south Baltic Sea in Poland. The second site is represented by the sandy coast in Shkorpilovtsi, located at the west Black Sea in Bulgaria. Both sites are equipped with field research facilities ensuring extensive and precise in situ investigations. The study is focused on differences and similarities of hydro- and lithodynamics as well as the nearshore morphology between the above coastal zones. The present analysis is based on the results of the field campaigns carried out in recent years at the research facilities in Lubiatowo and Shkorpilovtsi. Considering the way in which wave energy transforms on the cross-shore profile, the sea shore at Lubiatowo is found distinctly dissipative while the shore at RB Shkorpilovtsi has a reflective character. This fact implies some differences in the features of wave-current motion and sediment transport.
17
Content available remote Morska inżynieria brzegowa w świetle wyzwań stawianych przez zmiany klimatu
Pruszak Z.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
|
2009
|
nr 5
338-345
PL
Podatność polskiego brzegu morskiego na zmiany klimatyczne. Przyszłość polskich brzegów. Trzy główne warianty postępowania: cofanie, przystosowanie, ochrona.
EN
Susceptibility of the Polish seacoast on climate changes. The future of the Polish coast. Three main scenarios: moving back, adaptation, protection.
18
Content available remote Hydro- i litodynamika strefy przyboju w funkcji typu brzegu odmiennie rozpraszającego energię falowania
Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Szmytkiewicz M., Szmytkiewicz P.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
|
2009
|
nr 1
25-34
PL
Charakterystyka obszaru badań (M. Bałtyckie, M. Czarne). Pomiary (falowanie, prądy, morfologia). Analiza (falowanie, prądy, morfologia). Wyniki badań prądów poprzecznych i wzdłużbrzegowych pokazują że czynnikiem definiującym wielkości tego rodzaju prądów w strefie brzegowej jest jego ekspozycja w stosunku do wypadkowego wektora energii i wartość samej energii ruchu falowego. Najgrubsze frakcje osadów występują na linii wody, malejąc w kierunku głębi plaży i morza.
EN
Description of investigated areas (Baltic and Black Seas). Measurements and analysis (waves, currents, morphology). The results of investigations of crossshore and long shore currents show that the shore position against energy resultant vector and the wave energy value are the main factors defining the magnitude of such currents. The coarsest fractions of sediments occur along the shoreline, decreasing both landwards and seawards.
19
Content available Coastal Processes at Selected Shore Segments of South Baltic Sea and Gulf of Tonkin (South China Sea)
Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Różyński G., Szmytkiewicz M., Ninh P. V., Quynh D. N., Lien N. T. V.
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
|
2009
|
Vol. 56, nr 1-2
3-28
EN
The paper presents a comparative analysis of physical processes occurring at two different coasts, which belong to two different geographic zones, namely a subtropical region exposed to monsoons and typhoons and a region of temperate climate with ice-snowy winter season. The former coast comprises sandy shores nearby Lubiatowo and the Hel Peninsula, located at the south Baltic Sea in Poland. The shore at Lubiatowo is relatively stable in the long run, while the shore along Hel Peninsula is mostly vulnerable to erosion and strongly protected by use of various measures (groins, seawall and artificial beach nourishment). The second site is the eroded (and partly protected by dikes) coast at Hai Hau in the Gulf of Tonkin (the South China Sea, Vietnam). This shore segment is built of mixtures of sandy and cohesive material, comprising both marine sands and river-borne sediments which nourish the coastal zone at the Red River mouth, located northwards of the Hai Hau beach. The present analysis is focused on differences and similarities of hydro- and morphodynamics between the above coastal zones in various time and spatial scales. The analysis shows that regional climatic and environmental conditions, associated with geographical zones, play a key role in dynamic evolution of the coastal regions and necessitate different engineering activities against erosion and flooding.
20
Content available remote Shallow-water wave energy dissipation in a multi-bar coastal zone
Pruszak Z., Szmytkiewicz P., Ostrowski R., Skaja M., Szmytkiewicz M.
Oceanologia
|
2008
|
No. 50 (1)
43-58
EN
The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate statistical relationships between characteristic wave parameters in the coastal region and to assess wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. A simple model for calculating the residual nearshore wave energy is proposed and tested versus the data collected in situ.
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