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1

Bending Measurements from Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) and Standard Methods

Binti Haji Musa A., Malengier B., Vasile S., Van Langenhove L., De Raeve A.

Autex Research Journal

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2018

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Vol. 18, no. 1

51--60

EN

Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) is a relatively new device from SDL Atlas to determine touch properties of fabrics. It simultaneously measures 13 touch-related fabric physical properties in four modules that include bending and thickness measurements. This study aims to comparatively analyze the thickness and bending measurements made by the FTT and the common standard methods used in the textile industry. The results obtained with the FTT for 11 different fabrics were compared with that of standard methods. Despite the different measurement principle, a good correlation was found between the two methods used for the assessment of thickness and bending. As FTT is a new tool for textile comfort measurement and no standard yet exists, these findings are essential to determine the reliability of the measurements and how they relate to the well-established standard methods.

2

Study of the Contact Resistance of Interlaced Stainless Steel Yarns Embedded in Hybrid Woven Fabrics

Vasile S., Deruck F., Hertleer C., De Raeve A., Ellegiers T., De Mey G.

Autex Research Journal

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2017

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Vol. 17, no. 2

170--176

EN

The contact resistance of two interlacing electro-conductive yarns embedded in a hybrid woven fabric will constitute a problem for electro-conductive textiles under certain circumstances. A high contact resistance can induce hotspots, while a variable contact resistance may cause malfunctioning of the components that are interconnected by the electro-conductive yarns. Moreover, the contact robustness should be preserved over time and various treatments such as washing or abrading should not alter the functioning of the electro-conductive textiles. The electrical resistance developed in the contact point of two interlacing electro-conductive yarns is the result of various factors. The influence of diameter of the electro-conductive stainless steel yarns, the weave pattern, the weft density, and the abrasion on the contact resistance was investigated. Hybrid polyester fabrics were produced according to the design of experiments (DoE) and statistical models were found that describe the variation of the contact resistance with the selected input parameters. It was concluded that the diameter of the stainless steel warp and weft yarns has a statistically significant influence on the contact resistance regardless of the weave. Weft density had a significant influence on the contact resistance but only in case of the twill fabrics. Abrasion led to an increase in contact resistance regardless of the weave pattern and the type of stainless steel yarn that was used. Finally, a combination of parameters that leads to plain and twill fabrics with low contact resistance and robust contacts is recommended.

3

Wrinkle Recovery of Flax Fabrics with Embedded Superelastic Shape Memory Alloys Wires

Vasile S., Ciesielska-Wróbel I. L., Van Langenhove L.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2012

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Vol. 20, no. 4 (93)

56--61

EN

The present study explores the possibility of using superelastic Shape Memory Alloy (SMA) wires to improve the wrinkle recovery of flax fabrics that exhibit very poor recovery from creasing. Three types of hybrid yarns (H1- H3) were developed consisting of a SMA wire (Ni-Ti alloy) as the core, with a textile shield around it. Hybrid fabrics (HF1 - HF3) were developed by embedding the hybrid yarns in both the warp and weft directions of a fabric, to bring about all-direction recovery from creasing. The wrinkle recovery angles (WRAs) of the hybrid fabrics were assessed in both dry (RH 65%) and wet (RH 90%) conditions, and they were compared with those of reference flax fabrics (RF) and forth hybrid fabric (HF0) with Ni-Ti SMA wires embedded. The results showed a significant increase in the Wrikle Recover Angle (WRA) for all hybrid fabrics, from about 40 to approximately 120 degrees. Statistically significant differences were noticed between the WRA of hybrid fabrics HF2 and HF3 in dry conditions, as well as a significant variation in the WRA with humidity for hybrid fabric HF2. In addition, the bending properties of the four hybrid fabrics were assessed, but no significant correlation was found between these properties and the WRA of the hybrid fabrics.

PL

Zbadano możliwość zastosowania superelastycznych stopów z pamięcią kształtu dla poprawy odprężalności pofałdowań tkanin lnianych. Wykorzystano trzy rodzaje hybrydowych przędz z rdzeniem metalowym i oplotem włóknistym. Otrzymane przędze hybrydowe wprowadzano do tkaniny zarówno w kierunku osnowy jak i wątku. Odprężalność pofałdowań badano w stanie suchym i mokrym oraz porównano z odprężalnością tkanin czysto lnianych. Stwierdzono wyraźną poprawę dla tkanin z użyciem wszystkich włókien hybrydowych. Istotnie statystyczne różnice stwierdzono pomiędzy tkaninami, w których zastosowano poszczególne rodzaje przędz hybrydowych. Dodatkowo zbadano właściwości tkanin przy zginaniu, ale nie wykazano istotnych korelacji pomiędzy nimi a odprężalnością pofałdowań.

4

Upper Cretaceous volcanoclastic deposits from the Haţeg basin, south Carpathians (Romania): K-Ar ages and intrabasinal correlation

Bojar A.-V., Halas S., Bojar H.-P., Grigorescu D., Vasile S.

Geochronometria

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2011

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Vol. 38, no. 2

182-188

EN

In order to constrain the age of the Upper Cretaceous continental Densuş-Ciula Formation from the Haţeg basin, South Carpathians, and correlate it with the other continental unit that occurs in the region, the Sânpetru Formation, we separated and dated by the K-Ar method biotites and amphi-boles from volcanoclastic deposits. The mineral phases analysed are from two tuff layers and volcanic bombs cropping out near Rachitova village. Two tuff layers from the Densuş-Ciula Formation give early Maastrichtian ages of 69.8š1.3 and 71.3š1.6 Ma, respectively. The ages determined for the tuff layers constrain the age of deposition for the Densuş-Ciula Formation and enable further correlations with the available palaeomagnetic data from the deposits occurring along the Sibişel Valley that be-long to the Sânpetru Formation. The volcanic bombs collected near to Răchitova village are andesites and dacites. The age determined by K-Ar method on hornblende separated from a volcanic bomb is 82.7š1.5 Ma, which is older than the underlying Campanian marine deposits in turbidite facies. This suggests that the volcanic bombs were re-deposited during the early Maastrichtian. Thus, the volcan-ics found at Răchitova have at least two origins: one type is related to an explosive synsedimentary volcanic activity, and the other type is represented by older andesitic/dacitic bombs, which most probably originate from a volcanic centre situated in the Haţeg region.

5

Comparative Analysis of the Mechanical Properties of Hybrid Yarns with Superelastic Shape Memory Alloys (SMA) Wires Embedded

Vasile S., Githaiga J, Ciesielska-Wróbel I. L.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2011

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Vol. 19, no. 6 (89)

41--46

EN

Fabrics made of natural fibers like cotton, flax, and their blends present elevated wearing comfort, but they are unfortunately subject to creasing. Attempts made to improve the wrinkle recovery of flax fabrics by embedding shape memory alloy (SMA) wires in a woven structure highlighted the low cohesion of the smooth wires and the overall “non-textile” aspect of the fabric. This study aimed to overcome these disadvantages by developing hybrid yarns that contain a superelastic SMA wire - Smartflex as a core, covered by textile yarns or fibers. Three types of hybrid yarns were produced, and their structure, aesthetics as well as tensile and bending properties were assessed and compared. The hybrid yarns were embedded in a woven structure, and it was found that they significantly contributed to the increase in the crease recover angle of the flax fabrics.

PL

Materiały wykonane z włókien naturalnych wykazują zwiększony komfort użytkowania ale niestety wykazują się dużą gniotliwością. Badano polepszenie właściwości tkanin lnianych poprzez włączenie w strukturę drutów ze stopów wykazujących pamięć kształtu. W tym celu opracowano przędze hybrydowe z udziałem superelastycznych drutów SMA – Smartflex umieszczonych w rdzeniu przędzy, pokrytym warstwą przędzy lub włókien. Wykonano trzy typy przędz hybrydowych, których estetykę i właściwości mechaniczne przebadano i porównano. Stwierdzono, że włókna hybrydowe wprowadzone do struktury tkaniny w sposób zdecydowany poprawiają właściwości tkanin lnianych, a zwłaszcza polepszają kąt odprężenia.

6

Analysis of hybrid woven fabrics with Shape Memory Alloys wires embedded

Vasile S., Grabowska K. E., Ciesielska-Wróbel I. L., Githaiga J.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2010

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Vol. 18, no. 1 (78)

64--69

EN

Until recently, Shape Memory Alloys (SMAs) were predominantly developed for applications in the biomedical and engineering industry, and only a limited number of applications in textiles are known. Fabrics made of natural fibres (e.g. cotton, flax and their mixtures) present many advantages, such as wearing comfort, but they are subject to creasing. The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility of compensating for this disadvantage by using SMAs to create aesthetic low crease flax/cotton fabrics. Body Temperature SMAs (BT SMA) that regain their (straight) form when they are subject to human body temperature were used for this purpose. Clothing and bed sheeting are potential applications of these hybrid structures, which become wrinkle-free when they are exposed to the heat of the body, a hair dryer or that generated by an electrical current. The materials selected to achieve this purpose were the following: (1) textile yarns (e.g. single cotton or flax/cotton yarns, two-fold flax yarns and two types of loop fancy yarns) and (2) BT SMA wires of 300 um diameter. A power weaving loom and a hand-weaving shuttle loom were used to embed the SMA wires, and four types of hybrid fabrics were produced. The thickness, wrinkle recovery, dimensional stability as well as the cohesion of the SMA wires in the woven fabric were tested. All the tests were performed before and after a washing cycle for both the hybrid and reference fabrics. An increase in thickness was noticed after washing, and the recovery time after crushing varied according to the type of fabric. The slippage of SMA wires from the fabrics was noticed for all the samples, which was dependent on the type of yarns used, their linear density and the weaving process.

PL

Jak dotychczas materiały z pamięcią kształtu były rzadko stosowane w wyrobach włókienniczych. Celem pracy było zbadanie uzyskania możliwości likwidacji zgniecenia tkaniny po ogrzaniu jej przez ciało ludzkie lub np. suszarkę do włosów. W celu uzyskania tego efektu wyprodukowano tkaniny do których wprowadzono druty ze stopu charakteryzującego się pamięcią kształtu (SMA). Zastosowano następujące materiały: przędze tekstylne - pojedyncze przędze bawełniane lub z mieszanek bawełny z lnem, podwójne przędze oraz przędze fantazyjne. W tkaniny wprowadzono druty SMA o średnicy 300 um. 4 rodzaje tkanin hybrydowych wykonano za pomocą krosien ręcznych i mechanicznych. Badano grubość tkaniny, odprężność zgniecenia, stabilność wymiaru jak również spójność drutów z tkaniny. Wszystkie testy przeprowadzono przed i po praniu tkanin. Stwierdzono wzrost grubości po praniu a czas odprężenia zależny był od rodzaju tkaniny. Stwierdzono również wyślizgiwanie się drutów z tkaniny we wszystkich badanych próbkach, zależne od masy liniowej przędzy, grubości tkaniny i procesu tkania.

7

Fancy yarns - an appraisal

Grabowska K E, Ciesielska I. L., Vasile S.

Autex Research Journal

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2009

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Vol. 9, no. 3

74--81

EN

The great interest in fancy yarns area was noticed at the textile market all over the world as well as in science area. That interest may be the consequence of liberalization in trade with countries like China. Due to liberalization in fancy yarns sector trade between Europe and Asia, the main Asian producers of fancy yarns compete with each other to offer more and more sophisticated products. The production of fancy yarns has been differentiated and enriched in such scale that makes almost impossible to catalog and standardized all the produced types. However, certain activities has been taken up at The Technical University of Lodz with cooperation of the University of Gent to investigate the area from scientific point of view, mainly by tests based on fancy cotton yarns e.g. spiral, loop and bunch as well as fancy elastic yarns e.g. spiral, bunch and flame yarns. The aspects of fancy yarns implementation into fabrics will be considered as well as positioning those scientific activities at the European level with connection to the global policy. Therefore, the aim of this paper is bringing closer the matters concerning fancy cotton yarns and fancy elastic yarns from scientific point of view on a base of chosen examples carrying out a comparison of physical properties of those fancy yarns, the introduction of those yarns as wefts into fabrics. The aesthetic aspects and behaviour at wear of final products will be considered. The first experiment concerns the production, on the ring twisting frame, of three types of fancy cotton yarns, spiral, loop and bunch which were differentiated in respect of twist, linear density, the angel of lap of pegs by yarn on the slat of ring-twisting frame (the input only for spiral yarns) and the frequency of rocker's action in ring-twisting frame (the input only for bunch yarns). All obtained yarns were analysed in respect of real value of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), breaking force (cN/tex), elongation during breaking (%), air index (m/sec), bending rigidity (cN*cm) and width of hysteresis from bending rigidity test (cN*cm/cm). The fancy cotton fabrics were analysed in respect of mass surface (g/m2), friction-mass loss (g), piling, flexural rigidity (mg*cm), tearing (N), creasing, breaking force (cN/cm) and elongation while breaking. The second experiment concerns the production, on the hollow spindle, of three types of fancy elastic yarns, loop, bunch and flame yarns which were differentiated in respect of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), the value of stretch given to the elastic component (%) and preparation of the bobbin - precise and normal. All obtained yarns were analysed in respect of real value of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), breaking force (cN/tex), elongation during breaking (%), air index (m/sec). The fancy elastic fabrics were analysed in respect of mass surface, flexural rigidity (mg*cm), creasing, breaking force (cN/cm) and elongation while breaking (%) and dimensional stability. All the statistical analyses were carried out with usage of multiple regression module.

8

The Influence of Component Yarns’ Characteristics and Ring Twisting Frame Settings on the Structure and Properties of Spiral, Loop and Bunch Yarns

Grabowska K. E., Vasile S., Van Langenhove L., Ciesielska I. L., Barburski M.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2006

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Vol. 14, no. 3 (57)

38--41

EN

The aim of this research is to provide reliable information, provided in the form of statistical models, regarding the possibilities of modifying the structure and the mechanical properties of fancy yarns by changing the component yarns’ characteristics and the machine settings. Three types of fancy yarns (spiral yarns, loop yarns and bunch yarns) were produced via the ring twisting method. The statistical dependencies between (some) component yarn characteristics and machine settings as input and (some) fancy yarn characteristics and structure as output are presented in this paper

PL

Prezentowany artykuł przedstawia wyniki szerokiego spektrum badań dotyczących nitek ozdobnych, prowadzonych w ramach wspólnego projektu międzynarodowego zawartego pomiędzy Belgią i Polską. Celem tych badań było dostarczenie rzetelnych informacji, opartych na wynikach analiz statystycznych, dotyczących możliwości modyfikacji struktury i właściwości mechanicznych wybranych grup nitek ozdobnych w oparciu o parametry charakteryzujące nitki komponentowe oraz parametry opisujące proces produkcyjny (nastawy maszyn skręcających). Wyniki przeprowadzonych badań pozwalają na przedstawienie „przepisów” realizacji różnych typów nitek ozdobnych.

9

Effect of Production Process Parameters on Different Properties of a Nonwoven Spacer Produced on a 3D Web Linker®

Vasile S., Van Langenhove L., De Meulemeester S.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2006

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Vol. 14, no. 4 (58)

68--74

EN

In the field of technical textiles, three-dimensional woven spacer fabrics and knit spacer fabrics are nowadays widely used. Nevertheless, 3D nonwoven structures produced without any threads are still a novel development. Here we examine the possibility of producing nonwoven spacers using 3D Web Linker®, Napco® technology, and study their properties and possible destinations. Two pre-needled monolayers (85% recycled PES 6.88 dtex/97.4 mm, and 15% fusible fibres Co-PES 5 dtex/60 mm) of the same weight were bonded together on a 3D Web Linker® to produce nonwoven spacers, hereafter called Napco structures. A further thermal consolidation process was applied to all the samples, and structures identified as NapcoT were produced. The influence of the monolayers’ weight, technological parameters and thermal treatment on different physical and mechanical properties (weight, thickness, thermal properties, tensile properties and sound absorption coefficient) of the nonwoven spacer fabric was studied, and is presented further. It was found that nonwoven spacers can be produced via the Napco® technology if the length of the fibres, the quality of the monolayers and the technological parameters are correctly chosen and correlated. The majority of the tested properties are influenced significantly by the technological parameters, but only slightly by the thermal treatment.

PL

Trójwymiarowe tekstylne wkładki dystansowe, w tym dziane, są współcześnie często stosowane jako techniczne wyroby włókiennicze. Jednak trójwymiarowe struktury włókninowe, produkowane bez użycia jakichkolwiek nitek są ciągle jeszcze nowymi opracowaniami. W artykule analizowane są możliwości produkcji włókninowych wkładek dystansowych za pomocą urządzenia „3D Web Linker®” technologią Napco, ich właściwości i możliwe zastosowania. Dwie wstępnie przeigłowane warstwy (85% recyklizowanego PES 6, 15% topliwych włókien kopoliestrowych) o tej samej masie zostało powiązanych razem za pomocą „3D Web Linker®” dla wyprodukowania włókninowych wkładek dystansowych, zwanych przez nas strukturami Napco. Następnie wszystkie wytworzone próbki poddano obróbce termicznej dla wytworzenia zmodyfikowanych struktur określonych jako Napko T. Badano wpływ masy wstępnie igłowanych warstw włókninowych oraz parametrów technologicznych obróbki mechanicznej i termicznej na różne właściwości wkładek dystansowych, takie jak masa, grubość, właściwości termiczne, wytrzymałościowe oraz współczynnik pochłaniania dżwięków. Stwierdzono, że włókninowe wkładki dystansowe mogą być produkowane za pomocą technologii Napko®, jeżeli długość włókien, jakość warstw włókninowych i parametry procesu technologicznego są odpowiednio dobrane. Większość badanych właściwości istotnie zależy od parametrów technologicznych, jednak tylko nieznacznie od obróbki termicznej.