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EN
This study investigated the elastic elongation and elastic recovery of the elastic warp knittedfabric made of PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PBT (polybutylene terephthalate) filament. Using 50/24F PET and 50D/24F PBT in two threadingbars, the tricot, locknit and satin warp knitted fabrics were produced on the E28 tricot warpknitting machine. The knitting parameters influencing the elastic elongation under 100N wereanalyzed in terms of fabric structure, yarn run-in speed and drawing density set on machine.Besides, dyeing temperature and heat setting temperature/time were also examined in order toretain proper elastic elongation and elastic recovery. The relationship between elastic elongationand knitting parameter and finishing parameter were analyzed. Finally, the elastic recovery of PET/PBT warp knitted fabric was examined to demonstrate the elastic property of final finishedfabric. This study could help us to further exploit the use of PET/PBT warp knitted fabric in thedevelopment of elastic garment in future.
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EN
Single-layered warp knitted fabrics were produced by the 60D/36F (containing 36 filaments) polyester yarn with differential shrinkage (DS) property in this study. Due to the differential shrinkage property, the fabric becomes curly and bulkier, simulating cotton fabric in terms of its appearance and fabric handle. The performance and appearance of these DS polyester warp knitted fabrics were evaluated objectively and subjectively. The testing results demonstrated that the DS polyester warp knitted fabric had better abrasion property, worse pilling resistance due to the mechanical property of polyester yarn when compared with 100% cotton warp knitted fabric. Meanwhile, lower water vapour permeability and air resistance were found for DS polyester warp knitted fabric resulting from the dense structure of yarn shrinkage after heat-moisture treatment. Besides, the fabric handle was evaluated by Kawabata evaluation system and subject to trial under dry and wet fabric condition. DS polyester warp knitted fabrics provide better recovery under low stress mechanical pressure. The subjective evaluation result shows that the warp knitted fabrics made of DS polyester had similar handle against cotton warp knitted fabric in terms of prickle, smooth, comfort and dry feeling in both dry and wet testing conditions.
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