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Water flow through the beach body plays an important role in the biological status of the organisms inhabiting the beach sand. For tideless seas, the groundwater flow in shallow water is governed entirely by the surface wave dynamics on the beach. As waves propagate towards the shore, they become steeper owing to the decreasing water depth and at some depth, the waves lose their stability and start to break. When waves break, their energy is dissipated and the spatial changes of the radiation stress give rise to changes in the mean sea level, known as the set-up. The mean shore pressure gradient due to the wave set-up drives the groundwater circulation within the beach zone. This paper discusses the circulation of groundwater resulting from a nonlinear set-up. The circulation of flow is compared with the classic Longuet-Higgins (1983) solution and the time series of the set-up is considered for a 24 h storm. Water infiltrates into the coastal aquifer on the upper part of the beach near the maximum run-up and exfiltration occurs on the lower part of the beach face near the breaking point.
Słowa kluczowe
Czasopismo
Rocznik
Tom
Strony
477--496
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 12 poz., tab., wykr.
Twórcy
autor
- Institute of Oceanology, Polish Academy of Sciences, Powstańców Warszawy 55, 81-712 Sopot, Poland
Bibliografia
- [1]. Biot M. A., 1956, Theory of propagation of elastic waves in a fluid-saturated porous solid, I. Low frequency range, II. Higher frequency range, J. Acoust. Soc. Am., 28 (2), 168-191, http://dx.doi.org/10.1121/1.1908239
- [2]. Dally W. R., Dean R. G., Dalrymple R. A., 1985, Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile, J. Geophys. Res., 90, C6, 11917-11928, http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC090iC06p11917
- [3]. Holthuijsen L. H., 2007, Waves in ocenic and coastal waters, Cambridge Univ. Press, New York, http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
- [4]. Longuet-Higgins M. S., 1983, Wave set-up, percolation and undertow in the surf zone, Proc. Roy. Soc. London, A390, 283-291, http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rspa.1983.0132
- [5]. Longuet-Higgins M. S., Stewart R. W., 1962, Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to surf beats, J. Fluid Mech., 13, 481-504, http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112062000877
- [6]. Longuet-Higgins M. S., Stewart R. W., 1964, Radiation stresses in water waves, a physical discussion with applications, Deep Sea Res., 11, 529-562.
- [7]. Massel S. R., 2001, Circulation of groundwater due to wave set-up on a permeable beach, Oceanologia, 43 (3), 279-290.
- [8]. Massel S. R., Przyborska A., Przyborski M., 2004, Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water. Part 1, Oceanologia, 46 (3), 383-404.
- [9]. Massel S. R., Przyborska A., Przyborski M., 2005, Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water. Part 2. Theory, Oceanologia, 47 (3), 291-323.
- [10]. Moshagen H., Torum A., 1975, Waveinduced pressures in permeable sea-beds, J. Waterway Div., 101, 49-57.
- [11]. Singamsetti S. R., Wind E. G., 1980, Breaking waves: characteristics of shoaling and breaking periodic waves normally incident to plane beaches of constant slope, Delft Hydr. Lab., Rep. M1237, 80.
- [12]. Verruijt A., 1969, Elastic storage of aquifers. Flow through porous media, R. J. M. Deweist, Acad. Press, New York, 331-376.
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-f649b4ee-e8e6-46cd-9eb8-ff948cec15d2