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Abstrakty
Rapid and precise methods (geometrical and statistical), which aim to predict the amount of sewing thread needed to sew a garment using different over-edge stitches of class 500 (501, 503, 504, 505, 512, 514, 515, and 516), have been provided. Using a geometrical method of different over-edge stitch shapes, sewing consumption value was determined to avoid the unused stocks for each stitch type. The prediction of the sewing thread consumption relative to each investigated over-edge stitch was proposed as a function of the studied input parameters, such as material thickness, stitch density, yarn diameter, and seam width (distance between the needle and the cutter and the distance between two needles). To improve the established models using a geometrical method, a statistical method based on multi-linear regression was studied. Geometrical and statistical results were discussed, and the coefficient R2 value was determined to evaluate the accuracy of the tested methods. By comparing the estimated thread consumption with the experimental ones, we concluded that the geometrical method is more accurate than the statistical method regarding the range of R2 (from 97.00 to 98.78%), which encourages industrialists to use geometrical models to predict thread consumption. All studied parameters contributing to the sewing thread consumption behavior were investigated and analyzed in the experimental design of interest. It was concluded that the most important parameter affecting thread consumption is the stitch density. The material thickness and the seam width (B1) have a little impact on thread consumption values. However, the seam thread diameter has a neglected effect on thread consumption.
Czasopismo
Rocznik
Tom
Strony
150--162
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 28 poz.
Twórcy
autor
- National School of Engineers of Monastir, University of Monastir, Monastir, Tunisia
autor
- Laboratoire de Physique et Mécanique Textile EA 4365, Ecole Nationale Supérieure d’Ingénieurs Sud Alsace, Université de Haut-Alsace-France, Mulhouse, France
autor
- National School of Engineers of Monastir, University of Monastir, Monastir, Tunisia
Bibliografia
- [1] Abher, R., Sheraz, A., Nauman, A., Ateeq, R., Muhammad, B. R., et al. (2018). Geometrical model to calculate the consumption of sewing thread for 504 over-edge stitch. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 109(11), 1418–1423.
- [2] Doustar, K., Najar, S. S., Maroufi, M. (2010). The effect of fabric design and weft density on bagging behavior of cotton woven fabrics. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 101, 135–142.
- [3] Taylor, P. M., Pollet, D. M. (2000). The low-force frictional characteristics of fabrics against engineering surfaces. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 91, 1–15.
- [4] Jaouachi, B., Aouine, S., Khedher, F. (2017). Consumed sewing thread behaviour based on Lockstitch and chain stitch. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 42, 325–334.
- [5] Khedher, F., Jaouachi, B. (2014). Waste factor evaluation using theoretical and experimental jean pants consumptions. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 106, 402–408.
- [6] Amirbayat, J. (1990). An energy approach to the instability problem of overfed seams: part 1: theoretical analysis. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2, 21–25.
- [7] Amirbayat, J., Alagha, M. J. (1993). Further studies on balance and thread consumptions of lock-stitch seams. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 5, 26–31.
- [8] Jana, P. (2011). Assembling technologies for functional garments - an overview. Indian Journal of Fibre Textile Research, 36, 380–387.
- [9] Abher, R., Sheraz, A., Mohsin, M., Faheem, A., Ali, A. (2014). Geometrical model to calculate the consumption of sewing thread for 301 Lockstitch. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 105, 1259–1264.
- [10] Stylios, G., Sotomi, J. O. (1996). Thinking sewing machines for intelligent garment manufacture. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 8, 44–55.
- [11] Webster, J., Laing, R. M., Niven, B. E. (1998). Effects of repeated extension and recovery on selected physical properties of ISO-301 stitched seams, part I: load at maximum extension and at break. Textile Research Journal, 68(11), 854–864.
- [12] Lauriol, A. (1999). Modes and techniques: initiation to the technology of materials in the clothing industries. (2nd ed.). Strasbourg (France).
- [13] Sharma, S., Gupta, V., Midha, V. K. (2017). Predicting sewing thread consumption for chain stitch using regression model. Journal of Textile Science and Engineering, 7, ISSN 2165-8064.
- [14] VIinay, K. M., Shailja, S., Vaibhav, G. (2016). Predicting sewing thread consumption for lockstitch using regression model. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 20, 155–163.
- [15] Jaouachi, B., Khedher, F. (2015). Evaluation of sewed thread consumption of jean trousers using neural network and regression methods. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 111, 91–96.
- [16] Jaouachi, B., Khedher, F. (2013). Evaluating sewing thread consumption of jean pants using fuzzy and regression methods. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 104, 1065–1070.
- [17] Ghosh, S., Md. Vaseem Chavhan. (2014). A geometrical model of stitch length for lockstitch seam. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research. 39(2), 153–156.
- [18] Jaouadi, M., Msahli, S., Babay, A., Zitouni, B. (2006). Analysis of the modeling methodologies for predicting the sewing thread consumption. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18, 7–18.
- [19] Midha, V. K., Sharma, S., Gupta, V. (2016). Predicting sewing thread consumption for lockstitch using regression model. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 20(3), 155–163.
- [20] Gazzeh, M., Khedher, F., Jaouachi, B. (2017). Modelling the sewing thread consumption of 602 cover-stitch based on its geometrical shape. International Journal of Applied Research on Textile, 5, 1–15.
- [21] NFG 07-117. (1981). Method of assessing of fabric threads slippage and measurement of the seam resistance. French Association for Standardization AFNOR. 201–209.
- [22] Md Sohanur Rahman Sobuj. (2015). Relation between yarn count and diameter & count calculation for ply yarn. Web site: https://textilestudycenter.com/relation-between-yarn-count-and-diameter/. (27 February 2015).
- [23] Gazzeh, M. (2015). Study of the effect of wire/wire friction on the behavior of Denim tissue poaching. PhD thesis in Textile Engineering, University of Monastir. Tunisia.
- [24] Jaouachi, B., Khedher, F., Mili, F. (2012). Consumption of the sewing thread of jean pant using Taguchi design analysis. Autex Research Journal, 12, 81–86.
- [25] O’Dwyer, U., Munden, D. L. (1975). A study of the chain stitch seam. Part 2. The extension at break of chain stitch seams under longitudinal loading conditions. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 3, 33–40.
- [26] Kennon, W. R., Hayes, S. G. (2000). The effects of feed retardation on chain stitch sewing. Journal of the Textile Institute, 91, 509–522.
- [27] Hayes, S. G. (2001). The effects of check-spring travel on chain stitch sewing. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 5, 54–64.
- [28] Goldnfiber. (2018). Major factors for doing sewing thread consumption. Web site: http://www.goldnfiber.com/2016/07/major-factors-for-doing-sewing-thread-consumption.html.
Uwagi
Opracowanie rekordu ze środków MNiSW, umowa Nr 461252 w ramach programu "Społeczna odpowiedzialność nauki" - moduł: Popularyzacja nauki i promocja sportu (2021).
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-f43798b8-1e30-4164-bee6-1230077f91c6