Investigation into Fabric Spirality in Various Knitted Fabrics and Its Effect on Efficiency in Apparel Manufacturing

Kalkanci, Mihriban

doi:10.5604/01.3001.0012.7509

Artykuł - szczegóły

Tytuł artykułu

Investigation into Fabric Spirality in Various Knitted Fabrics and Its Effect on Efficiency in Apparel Manufacturing

Autorzy

Kalkanci Mihriban

Treść / Zawartość

Pełne teksty:

9_investigation_into_fabric_spirality_in_various knitted_fabrics_fibres_2019_1.pdf

Pobierz

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.5604/01.3001.0012.7509

Warianty tytułu

Badanie deformacji („skręcania”) dzianin i jej wpływ na efektywność produkcji odzieży

Języki publikacji

Abstrakty

The present study aimed to comparatively determine fabric spirality in single jersey knitted fabrics manufactured from different fibers and fiber blends under the same conditions as well as its effect on the efficiency of apparel manufacturing. To that end, the fabric spirality was studied for 18 different fabrics manufactured from nine different fiber blends (100% Organic Cotton, 100% Cotton, 100% Viscose, 100% Modal, 95% Viscose-5% PES, 50% Cotton-50% Viscose, 50% Modal-50% Organic Cotton, 70% Viscose-30% PES, 80% Viscose-20% PES) at 2 different knitting densities. In order to determine the effect of fabric spirality on the marker plan, a t-shirt model was selected and a total of 8 different fabric marker plans were prepared in 2 different assortments and at 3 different spirality rates. Finally fabric efficiency and the effect of spirality on unit fabric consumption were investigated for all fabric marker plans. In the end, the greatest spirality was observed for 100% viscose fabrics. It was also determined that as the fabric spirality increases (5%, 7% and 10%), CAD efficiency decreasesby rates of 2.4%, 3.68% and 5.25%, respectively, in comparison with the marker plan forthe fabric not exhibiting spirality.

Celem badania było względne określenie „skręcania” dzianin lewoprawych wytwarzanych z różnych włókien i mieszanek włókien w tych samych warunkach, a także jej wpływu na wydajność produkcji odzieży. W tym celu zbadano 18 różnych dzianin o 2 różnych gęstościach wykonanych z dziewięciu różnych mieszanek włókien: 100% bawełna organiczna; 100% bawełna; 100% wiskoza; 100% Modal; 95% wiskoza/5% PES; 50% bawełna/50% wiskoza; 50% Modal/50% bawełna organiczna,; 70% wiskoza/30% PES; 80% wiskoza/20% PES. Zbadano wydajność dzianin i wpływ ich „skręcania” na jednostkowe zużycie dzianin. Największe „skręcenie” zaobserwowano dla dzianin 100% wiskozowych. Stwierdzono także, że wraz ze wzrostem „skręcenia” dzianiny (5, 7 i 10%) wydajność dzianiny określona przy zastosowaniu systemu CAD zmniejszyła się odpowiednio o 2.4, 3.68 i 5.25%, w porównaniu z dzianiną, która nie wykazuje tendencji do „skręcania”.

Słowa kluczowe

viscose knitted fabric loop length fabric spirality garment manufacturing CAD productivity

dzianina wiskozowa długość pętli spiralność tkaniny produkcja odzieży system CAD

Wydawca

Sieć Badawcza Łukasiewicz - Łódzki Instytut Technologiczny

Czasopismo

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

Rocznik

2019

Tom

Vol. 27, no. 1 (133)

Strony

59--66

Opis fizyczny

Bibliogr. 34 poz., rys., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Kalkanci Mihriban

mkalkanci@pau.edu.tr

Pamukkale University, Denizli Vocational School of Technical Sciences, Denizli, Turkey

Bibliografia

1. Mezarcioz S, Oğulata RT. The Use of the Taguchi Design of Experiment Method in Optimizing Spirality Angle of Single Jersey Fabrics. Textile and Apperal, 2011; 4: 374-380.
2. Kurbak A, Kayacan Ö. Basic Studies For Modeling Complex Weft Knitted Fabric Structures. Part II: A Geometrical Model For Plain Knitted Fabric Spirality. Textile Research Journal 2008; 78(4), 279-288, DOI: 10.1177/0040517507082351
3. Kothari VK. Spirality Of Cotton Plain Knitted Fabrics With Respect to Variation In Yarn And Machine Parameters. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 2011; 36: 227-233.
4. Vishal Desale PP, Raichurkar, Akhilesh Shukla & Ramkesh Yadav. A Study on Spirality of Single Jersey Knitted Fabric. Fibre2fashion, Www.Fabre2fashion.
5. A Nahla Abd El-Mohsen Hassan. An Investigation About Spirality Angle of Cotton Single Jersey Knitted Fabrics Made From Conventional Ring and Compact Spun Yarn. J Am Sci 2013; 9(11): 402- 416.
6. Prımentas A. Spirality of Weft Knitted Fabrics: Part I – Descriptive Approach to the Effect. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research 2003; 28, 55-59.
7. Çoruh E, Çelik N. The Effects of Fabrıc Density And Nozzle Type On Structural Properties, Dimensional Stabılıty And Spirality of Sıngle Jersey Knitted Fabrics. Textile & Apparel 2014; 24(1): 74-80.
8. Değirmenci Z, Topalbekiroğlu M. Effects of Weight, Dyeing and the Twist Direction on The Spirality of Single Jersey Fabrics. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010; 18, No. 3(80): 81-85.
9. Kireçci A, Kaynak H K, Ince M E. Comparative Study of The Quality Parameters of Knitted Fabrics Produced From Sirospun, Single And Two-Ply Yarns. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2011; 19, No.5(88): 82-86.
10. Md. Abdul Hannan, Md. Mazedul Islam, S. M. Fijul Kabir, Abdullahil Kafi, Shamsuzzaman Sheikh. Effect of Yarn Count & Stitch Length on Shrinkage, GSM and Spirality of Single Jersy Cotton Knit Fabric. European Scientific Journal 2014; 10, No.36 ISSN: 1857-7881 (Print) E – ISSN 1857-7431.
11. Xu B, Tao X, Leung CS. A Comparative Study of Cotton Knitted Fabrics And Garments Produced By The Modified Low Twist and Conventional Ring Yarns. Fibers Polym 2010; 11: 899. Https://Doi. Org/10.1007/S12221-010-0899-6,
12. Unal P, Üreyen ME, Mecit D. Predicting Properties of Single Jersey Fabrics Using Regression and Artificial Neural Network Models. Fibers and Polymers 2012; 13, 1: 87-95.
13. Chen ZH, Xu BG, Chi ZR, Feng DG. Mathematical Formulation of Knitted Fabric Spirality Using Genetic Programming. Textile Research Journal 2012; 82 (7): 667-676.
14. Murrells CM, Tao XM, Xu BG, Cheng KPS. An Artificial Neural Network Model For The Prediction of Spirality of Fully Relaxed Single Jersey Fabrics. Textile Research Journal 2009; 79(3): 227-234.
15. Mezarciöz S, Mavruz Oğulata R T. The Use of the Taguchi Design of Experiment Method In Optimizing Spirality Angle of Single Jersey Fabrics. Journal of Textile & Apparel 2011; 21 (4), 374- 380.
16. Celik O, Ucar N, Ertugrul S. Determination of Spirality In Knitted Fabrics By Image Analyses. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2005, 13, 3(51): 47-49.
17. TS EN 14971:2006. Textiles – Knitted Fabrics – Determination of Number of Stitches Per Unit Length and Unit Area.
18. TS EN 14970: 2006. Textiles – Knitted fabrics – Determination of Stitch Length and Yarn Linear Density in Weft Knitted Fabrics.
19. ASTM-D 3887. Standard Test Method for Fabric Count and Loop Length.
20. Munden DL. The Geometry and Dimensional Properties of Plain-Knitted Loop. Journal of the Textile Institute 1959, 50: T448-T471.
21. Doyle PJ. Fundamental Aspects of the Design of Knitted Fabrics. Journal of The Textile Institute 1953; 44: 561-578.
22. TS EN 12127:1999. Textiles-Fabrics-Determination of Mass Per Unit Area Using Small Samples.
23. TS EN ISO 139. Textiles-Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing, 2008.
24. AATCC Test Method 179 (2012). Skewness Change in Fabric and Garment Twist Resulting from Automatic Home Laundering.
25. ISO 16322-3:2013. Preview Textiles – Determination of Spirality After Laundering – Part 3: Woven and Knitted Garments.
26. Islam MA; Haque ANMA. Selection of Suitable Machine Gauge by Considering The GSM, Shrinkage and Spirality of Single Jersey Knit Fabric. Research Journal of Science and IT Management 2014; 03: 50-55.
27. Tao J, Dhingra RC, Chan CK, Abbas MS. Effect of Yarn and Fabric Construction on Spirality of Cotton Single Jersy Fabrics. Text Res J 1997; 67: 57-67.
28. Hassan N A E. An Investigation about Spirality Angle of Cotton Single Jersey Knitted Fabrics Made from Conventional Ring and Compact Spun Yarn. Journal of American Science 2013; 9(11): 402-416.
29. Čiukas R. Designing of Knits. Monograph. Kaunas, Technologija, 1996, p. 152.
30. Afroz N, Alam AKMM, Mehedi H. Analysis on the Important Factors Influencing Spirality of Weft Knitted Fabrics. Institutional Engineering and Technology (IET) 2012; 2, 2: 8-14. ISSN 2076-3972.
31. Araujo MD, Smith GW. Spirality of Knitted Fabrics-Part II: The Effect of Yarn Spinning Technology on Spirality. Text Res J 1989; 50: 350-356.
32. Jamshaid H. Spirality in Knitted Fabric. J Textile Sci Eng 2018; 8: 350. DOI: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000350.
33. Black DH. Knitting with Cotton and Cotton Blend Open end Spun Yarn. TEXT RES J 1975; 45: 48-55.
34. Elmogahzy Y, Shewing C. Fiber to Yarn Manufacturing Technology. Cotton Incorparate Cary, NC, USA, 2001.

Uwagi

Opracowanie rekordu w ramach umowy 509/P-DUN/2018 ze środków MNiSW przeznaczonych na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (2019).

Typ dokumentu

Bibliografia

Identyfikator YADDA

bwmeta1.element.baztech-ea70ddb9-16e4-4a4b-a5f8-07e47ea4c94f