Lithuanian Folk Textile Heritage: Expressive Possibilities of Designs

Petrulyte, S.; Petrulis, D.

doi:10.5604/01.3001.0012.1324

Artykuł - szczegóły

Tytuł artykułu

Lithuanian Folk Textile Heritage: Expressive Possibilities of Designs

Autorzy

Petrulyte S. , Petrulis D.

Treść / Zawartość

Pełne teksty:

19_lithuanian_folk_textile_heritage_ expressive__fibres_2018_4.pdf

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Identyfikatory

DOI

10.5604/01.3001.0012.1324

Warianty tytułu

Litewskie tekstylia ludowe i możliwości ich projektowania

Języki publikacji

Abstrakty

Lithuanian folk textile heritage is an important part of world culture heritage, on which various ideas and traditions are imprinted with the emphasis on the education of self-consciousness of society and preservation of national identity. This paper deals with a complex analysis of Lithuanian national fabrics, the data of which have been collected by the authors’ abundant expeditions into Lithuanian rural territories. The current research presents the peculiarities of designs, colours and ornamentation of authentic woven textile manufactured since the middle of the 19th century up to now. The significance of this study is that it investigates only authentic textiles obtained from weavers or their relatives in Lithuanian villages, and the presence of these articles has been undisclosed up to now. This research presents collected, registered and investigated data concerning colours, ornamentation and patternsas expressive possibilities of designs of Lithuanian folk textile: dimai and pick-up fabrics. The current analysis discovers new features of originality of the national fabrics.

Litewskie dziedzictwo folklorystyczne stanowi ważną część światowego dziedzictwa kulturowego, jego idee i tradycje odznaczają się naciskiem na edukację samoświadomości społeczeństwa i zachowanie tożsamości narodowej. W pracy przeprowadzono kompleksową analizę litewskich tkanin narodowych. Zaprezentowane badania przedstawiają osobliwości wzorów, kolorów i ozdób autentycznych tkanin tekstylnych wytwarzanych od połowy XIX wieku do dziś. Badano wyłącznie autentyczne tkaniny uzyskane od tkaczy lub ich krewnych w litewskich wioskach. W artykule przedstawiono zebrane, zarejestrowane i sprawdzone dane dotyczące kolorów, ornamentów i wzorów jako możliwości projektowania tkaniny folklorystycznych dimai i pick-up. Zaprezentowana analiza wskazuje cechy oryginalności litewskich tkanin.

Słowa kluczowe

folk fabric pattern ornament textile design textile heritage

tkanina ludowa wzór ornament wzór tekstylny dziedzictwo tekstylne

Wydawca

Sieć Badawcza Łukasiewicz - Łódzki Instytut Technologiczny

Czasopismo

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

Rocznik

2018

Tom

Vol. 26, no. 4 (130)

Strony

130--137

Opis fizyczny

Bibliogr. 22 poz., rys., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Petrulyte S.

salvinija.petrulyte@ktu.lt

Kaunas University of Technology, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering and Design Department of Materials Engineering, Studentu St. 56, LT-51424 Kaunas, Lithuania

autor

Petrulis D.

Kaunas University of Technology, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering and Design Department of Materials Engineering, Studentu St. 56, LT-51424 Kaunas, Lithuania

Bibliografia

1. Potocic VM, Saric DF. Textile Materials at the Beginning of New Millennium. Tekstil 2000; 2, 49: 97-104.
2. Carp M, Popp A. The Influence of Traditional Art in the Current Fashion Design. Industria Textila 2013; 4: 217-221.
3. Bacci L, Camilli F, Drago S, Magli M, Vagnoni E, Mauro A, Predieri S. Sensory Evaluation and Instrumental Measurements to Determine Tactile Properties of Wool Fabrics. Textile Research Journal 2012; 14: 1430-1441.
4. Inoue T, Niwa M. Hand Evaluation and Formability of Japanese Traditional Chirimen Fabric. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2010; 4: 234-247.
5. Lekka L, Dascalopoulos S. Motifs and Symmetry Characteristics of the Ornamentation on Traditional Greek Woven Textiles from the Area of the Aegean. FIBRES & TEXTILE in Eastern Europe 2008, 16, 3(68): 74-78.
6. Bremze Z, Rozenberga V, Zingite I. Latvian National Costumes. Part 1. Vidzeme. 1995, Riga: Jana seta.
7. Bremze Z, Rozenberga V, Zingite I. Latvian National Costumes. Part 2. Kurzeme. 1997, Riga: Jana seta.
8. Bremze Z, Rozenberga V, Zingite I. Latvian National Costumes. Part 3. Zemgale, Augszeme, Latgale. 2003, Riga: Latvijas Vestures muzejs.
9. Beikule I, Kukle S, Vilumsone A. Latvian Material Culture Traditions as a Source of Contemporary Designs. In: Proceedings of International Conference AUTEX: The Textiles: Research in Design and Technology, Kaunas, September 21-22, Technology (Kaunas), 2000: 69-75.
10. Kukle S, Lipnicka I. The Interaction of Colour Solution, Design and Structure of Check Fabrics Used in Latvian Folk Costumes. In: Proceedings of Conference: Technologies and Design of Consumer Goods, Kaunas, April 21-22, Technology (Kaunas), 1998: 227-232.
11. Lazaroiu G, Bratu S, Serban S, Iordanescu M. The Semantics of Communicative Functions of Smart Interactive Clothing. Industria Textila 2013; 5: 260-265.
12. Nėnienė I. Zanavykai Textile Traditions. Scientific monograph. Kaunas: Technology, 2010.
13. Zdanavičiūtė I, Milašius V, Katunskis J. The Peculiarities of the Ornamentation of Lithuanian Traditional Woven Textiles. Fibres & Textile in Eastern Europe 2006; 2, 56: 3740.
14. Petrulyte S, Petrulis D. Textile Heritage of North and East Lithuania: National Overshot Fabrics. FIBRES & TEXTILE in Eastern Europe 2014, 22, 6(108): 137-143.
15. Petrulyte S, Petrulis D. Lithuanian Textile Heritage: Folk Overshot Fabrics. In: Proceedings of Conference: 14th AUTEX World Textile Conference 2014, Bursa, May 26-28, Uludag University (Bursa), 2014: 1-5.
16. Petrulis D, Petrulyte S. Authentic Folk Fabrics of Lithuania: Identification, Designs, Technique. In: Proceedings of Conference: 7thInternational Textile, Clothing & Design Conference – Magic World of Textiles, Dubrovnik, October 05-08, University of Zagreb (Zagreb), 2014: 610-615.
17. Neverauskienė D, Kazlauskienė I, Milašius V. The Symmetry Peculiarities of Ornamentation of National Lithuanian Woven Fabrics. FIBRES & TEXTILE in Eastern Europe 2001; 9, 1(32): 63-67.
18. Kemežys V, Milašius V. Patterns Creation for Lithuanian Fabrics, Named “Dimai”. In: Proceedings of Conference: Technologies and Design of Light Industry, Kaunas, April 15-16, Technology (Kaunas) 1997: 341-345.
19. Piskorz-Branekova E. Polish Folk Costumes, Part 1-3. Warsaw: MUZA SA, 2005-2007.
20. Čepaitienė A. Spinning in Lithuania. The Fate of Folk Culture. Lithuanian Institute of History. Vilnius: Diemedis, 2001.
21. Zemcic I, Chinciu D. The Harmony of Colors – Fundamental Postulate in the Fabric Design. Industria Textila 2011; 6: 315-319.
22. Savoniakaitė V. Textiles in Rural Culture. Lithuanian Geometric Patterns in the 19th and 20th Centuries. Institute of Lithuanian History. Vilnius: Alma Littera, 1998.

Uwagi

Opracowanie rekordu w ramach umowy 509/P-DUN/2018 ze środków MNiSW przeznaczonych na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (2018).

Typ dokumentu

Bibliografia

Identyfikator YADDA

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