Techniki europejskiego pasamonictwa odzieżowego od średniowiecza do końca XVIII wieku

• Autorzy: Turnau I.

Warianty tytułu

EN

Techniques used in European clothes-making haberdashery from the middle ages until the end of the 18th century

• Języki publikacji: PL

Abstrakty

EN

The haberdashers’ guild was engaged in producing adornments for clothes in the form of trimmings and accessories, whose use in clothes-making closely followed the changing fashions. The haberdashery products used in clothes-making were produced from a variety of raw materials and with the use of various techniques, which contravened the traditional guild rules. The present article discusses a wide range of haberdashery products, from the 13th until the end of the 18th centuries, the disintegration of the guild into various specialized groups, as well as the techniques used by haberdashers, including those that were based on weaving and those that were not. The article also compares the use of haberdashery products and techniques in various parts of Europe, focusing on the countries of Western Europe, including Italy and Spain, which set the fashions for the rest of the continent, and on countries located in the central and eastern parts of Europe, including the Balkan Peninsula. The range of small wares manufactured by harberdashers varied in line with the fashions prevalent at Western courts as well as with the requirements of the national costume of the countries of East-Central Europe. The article deals mainly with different haberdashery techniques based on textile-making, with less attention devoted to techniques based on weaving, involving the use of tablet looms or narrow looms, as these have been well described in other writings on the subject. However, little focus has been given so far to plaitworking techniques, including netting techniques. Different kinds of plaitworks were used in the braiding of garments, in cords, laces, or buttons, whose production had to be supplemented using non-textile-making techniques. Only a handful of very simple tools made the work of haberdashers easier. It was not until the invention of a ribbon-making machine, patented in the Netherlands in the year 1604, and the development of plaitworking machines in England and Germany in the years 1748-1767, that the manufacture of some of the haberdashery products could gradually be mechanized. The introduction of such machines was opposed by haberdashers, who were afraid of a substantial increase in the manufacture of haberdashery products and hence of becoming unemployed. For that reason, the machines were first introduced only in some of the larger workshops.

Słowa kluczowe

PL

włókiennictwo; odzież; moda

EN

textile; clothing; fashion

• Wydawca: Instytut Historii Nauki im. L. i A. Birkenmajerów Polskiej Akademii Nauk
• Czasopismo: Kwartalnik Historii Nauki i Techniki
• Rocznik: 2001
• Tom: R. 46, nr 4
• Strony: 105--122
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 27 poz.

Twórcy

autor

Turnau I.

• Warszawa