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Abstrakty
The paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the national coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) commissioned in 2005 and 2011 by coastal authorities for monitoring purposes. The profiles, spaced every 500 m, cover beach topography from dune/cliff tops through the emerged beach to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract their monotonic components containing all major modes of the variability of beach topography. They are termed empirical equilibrium profiles and can be used for straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic patterns of wave energy dissipation were thus identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and several zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. Interestingly, most profiles showed significant seabed variations beyond the nearshore depth of closure – this phenomenon requires comprehensive studies in future.
Czasopismo
Rocznik
Tom
Strony
500--512
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 19 poz., mapy, tab., wykr.
Twórcy
autor
- Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, Gdańsk, Poland
autor
- Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, Gdańsk, Poland
Bibliografia
- [1] Bodge, K., 1992. Representing equilibrium beach profiles with an exponential expression. J. Coast. Res. 8 (1), 47-55.
- [2] Bruun, P., 1954. Coastal Erosion and Development of Beach Profiles. Tech. Memo. (Beach Erosion Board) No. 44, Washington, 1-79.
- [3] Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM) III-3, 2008. US Army Corps of Engineers, http://www.publications.usace.army.mil/Portals/76/Publications/EngineerManuals/EM_1110-2-1100_Part-03.pdf?ver=2014-03-10-134006-163.
- [4] Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM) V-4, 2008. US Army Corps of Engineers, http://www.publications.usace.army.mil/Portals/76/Publications/EngineerManuals/EM_1110-2-1100_Part-05.pdf?ver=2014-03-10-135016-380.
- [5] Dean, R. G., 1976. Beach erosion: causes, processes and remedial measures. CRC Crit. Rev. Environ. Control 6 (3), 259-296.
- [6] Dean, R. G., 1987. Coastal sediment processes: toward engineering solutions. In: Proc. Coastal Sediments '87 Conf., American Soc. Civil Eng., New Orleans, LA, 1. 1-24.
- [7] Hallermeier, R. J., 1981. A profile zonation for seasonal sand beaches from wave climate. Coast. Eng. 4, 253-277, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(80)90022-8.
- [8] Hallermeier, R. J., 1983. Sand transport limits in coastal structure design. In: Proc. Coastal Structures '83 Conf., American Soc. Civil Eng. 703-716.
- [9] Hanson, H., Kraus, N., 1989. GENESIS, Generalized model for simulating shoreline change. In: Technical Rep. CERC 89-19, Washington, USA, 1-185.
- [10] Holman, R. A., Lalejini, D. M., Edwards, K., Veeramony, J., 2014. A parametric model for barred equilibrium beach profiles. Coast. Eng. 90, 85-94, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coasta-leng.2014.03.005.
- [11] Inman, D. L., Elwany, M. H. S., Jenkins, S. A., 1993. Shorerise and barberm profiles on ocean beaches. J. Geophys. Res. 98 (C 10), 18181-18199.
- [12] Komar, P. D., McDougal, W. G., 1994. The analysis of exponential beach profiles. J. Coast. Res. 10 (1), 59-69.
- [13] Kriebel, D., Kraus, N. C., Larson, M., 1991. Engineering methods for predicting beach profile response. In: Proc. Coastal Sediments '91 Conf., ASCE, Seattle, 557-571.
- [14] Larson, M., Kraus, N. C., 1989. SBEACH: numerical model to simulate storm-induced beach change. Tech. Re CERC-899, 115 pp.
- [15] Moore, B. D., 1982. Beach Profile Evolution in Response to Changes in Water Level and Wave Height. University of Delaware, Newark, USA, (MSc Thesis).
- [16] Özkan-Haller, H. T., Brundidge, S., 2007. Equilibrium beach profile concept for Delaware Beaches. J. Waterw. Port C Div. 133 (2), 147-160, http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X.
- [17] Pruszak, Z., 1993. The analysis of beach profile changes using Dean's method and empirical orthogonal functions. Coast. Eng. 19 (3-4), 245-261.
- [18] Różyński, G., Larson, M., Pruszak, Z., 2001. Forced and self-organized shoreline response for a beach in the southern baltic sea determined through singular spectrum analysis. Coast. Eng. 43 (1), 41-58.
- [19] Różyński, G., Lin, J. G., 2015. Data-driven and theoretical beach equilibrium profiles: implications and consequences. J. Waterw. Port C Div. 141 (5), 04015002, http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000304.
Uwagi
Opracowanie rekordu w ramach umowy 509/P-DUN/2018 ze środków MNiSW przeznaczonych na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (2018).
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-d868b00b-fab4-4a76-b43a-9e9b807de79f