Some characteristic wave energy dissipation patterns along the Polish coast

• Autorzy: Różyński G. , Szmytkiewicz P.

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.1016/j.oceano.2018.04.001

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

The paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the national coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) commissioned in 2005 and 2011 by coastal authorities for monitoring purposes. The profiles, spaced every 500 m, cover beach topography from dune/cliff tops through the emerged beach to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract their monotonic components containing all major modes of the variability of beach topography. They are termed empirical equilibrium profiles and can be used for straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic patterns of wave energy dissipation were thus identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and several zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. Interestingly, most profiles showed significant seabed variations beyond the nearshore depth of closure – this phenomenon requires comprehensive studies in future.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

coastal morphology; wave energy dissipation; equilibrium profiles; data-driven modelling; signal processing

• Wydawca: Polish Academy of Sciences, Institute of Oceanology ; Elsevier
• Czasopismo: Oceanologia
• Rocznik: 2018
• Tom: No. 60 (4)
• Strony: 500--512
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 19 poz., mapy, tab., wykr.

Twórcy

autor

Różyński G.

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, Gdańsk, Poland

autor

Szmytkiewicz P.

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, Gdańsk, Poland

Bibliografia

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Uwagi

Opracowanie rekordu w ramach umowy 509/P-DUN/2018 ze środków MNiSW przeznaczonych na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (2018).