Merging Footwear Design and Functionality

• Autorzy: Kutnjak-Mravlinčić Suzana , Akalović Jadranka , Bischof Sandra

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.2478/aut-2019-0023

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

Functionality and appearance are key aspects of good footwear. Developments in recent science and technology offer a wider scope of innovations, contributing to diversity and higher complexity of the production concept of footwear. Contemporary industrial footwear market offers a practically limitless number of new design and fashion solutions, often of quite similar appearance, but with significant differences in quality level, both regarding manufacture, raw material content, durability, and in some special functional finishes. The materials for footwear manufacture are functionalized for functional protective purposes, such as antimicrobial, waterproofing, fire resistant, wear and tear resistant, and recently for some therapeutical purposes. Novelties in material functionalization for the materials built in the footwear are most often promoted and presented on tags and labels and are used as advertisement issues, while some functionalities have become a logo for some brands.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

footwear design; leather functionalization; antimicrobial agents; footwear manufacture

PL

projektowanie obuwia; funkcjonalizacja skóry; środki przeciwbakteryjne; produkcja obuwia

• Wydawca: Lodz University of Technology, Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design
• Czasopismo: Autex Research Journal
• Rocznik: 2020
• Tom: Vol. 20, no. 4
• Strony: 372--381
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 37 poz.

Twórcy

autor

Kutnjak-Mravlinčić Suzana

• Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovica 28a, Zagreb, Croatia

autor

Akalović Jadranka

• Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovica 28a, Zagreb, Croatia

autor

Bischof Sandra

• Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovica 28a, Zagreb, Croatia

Bibliografia

• [1] Noble, J. (1993). Industrial design: reflection of a Century, 19th to 21st Century. Flammarion (Paris).
• [2] Pérez-Limiñana, M.Á., Payá-Nohales, F.J., Arán-Ais, F., Orgilés-Barceló, C. (2014). Effect of the shell-forming polymer ratio on the encapsulation of tea tree oil by complex coacervation as a natural biocide. Journal of Microencapsulation, 31(2), 176-183.
• [3] Beghetto, V., Zancanaro, A., Scrivanti, A., Matteoli, U., Pozza, G. (2013). The leather industry: A chemistry insight part I: an Overview of the Industrial Process, Sciences at Ca’ Foscari, 13-22.
• [4] EN ISO 3376:2012 Leather – physical and mechanical tests – Determination of tensile strength and percentage extension
• [5] Bitlisl, B.O. et al. (2005). Importance of using genuine leather in shoe production in terms of foot comfort. Journal of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, 89(3), 107-110.
• [6] Schröpfer, M., Meyer, M. (2012). Dimensional and structural stability of leather under alternating climate conditions. Journal of Aqeic, 63(2), 1-10.
• [7] Meyer, M., Trommer, A., Tromme,. B. (2005). Verbesserung der Temperaturbeständigkeit von Leder, AiF: 13475 BR, Kategorie: Leder Kollagen/Biopolymere. Retreived 31.10.2018. Web site: https://www.filkfreiberg.de/en/research/research-projects-and-publications/project-library/verbesserung-der-temperaturbestaendigkeit-von-leder.html
• [8] EN ISO 15702:2004 Leather – Tests for colour fastness – Colour fastness to machine washing
• [9] EN ISO 15703:2004 Leather – Tests for colour fastness – Colour fastness to mild washing
• [10] Pušić, T., Dragčević, Z., Nuber, M., Akalović, J. (2006). Washable Lamb Leathers, Book of Proceedings of the 3rd International Textile, Clothing and Design Conference; Magic World of Textiles, ed. Z. Dragčević, University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology, 342-345.
• [11] Gao, Y., Cranston, R. (2008). Recent advances in antimicrobial treatments of textiles. Textile Research Journal, 78(1), 60-72.
• [12] Bischof Vukušić, S., Flinčec Grgac, S., Katović, D. (2007). Antimicrobial textile treatment and problems of testing methods (in Croat). Tekstil, 56(1), 36-49.
• [13] Ramachandran, T. (2004). Antimicrobial textiles – an overview, IE (I). Journal – TX, 84, 42-47.
• [14] Fernandes, I.P., Amaral. J. S., Pinto, V., Ferreira. M. J. Barreiro. M. F. (2013). Development of chitosan-based antimicrobial leather coatings. Carbohydrate Polymers, 98(1), 1229-1235.
• [15] Hong, K. H., Sun, G. J. (2010). Photoactive antimicrobial agents/polyurethane finished leather. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 115(2), 1138-1144.
• [16] Lkhagvajav, N., Koizhaiganova, M., Yasa, I., Çelik, E., Sari. Ö. (2015). Characterization and antimicrobial performance of nanosilver coatings on leather materials, Brazilian Journal of Microbiology, 46(1), 41–48.
• [17] Maestre-López, M. I., Payà-Nohales, J. F., Cuesta-Garrote, N., Arán-Ais, F., Martínez-Sánchez, CésarOrgilés-Barceló, M. A., Bertazzo, M. (2014). Antimicrobial effect of coated leather based on silver nanoparticles and nanocomposites: synthesis, characterisation and microbiological evaluation. Microbiol Biotechnol, 98, 8179–8189.
• [18] Sánchez-Navarr, M. M., Pérez-Limiñana, M. A., Cuesta-Garrote, N., Maestre-López, M. I., Bertazzo, M., et al. (2013). Latest developments in antimicrobial functional materials for footwear. Science, Technology and Education. Formatex, 102-113.
• [19] Long, L., Qingfeng, L., Jianghua, L., Guocheng, D., Jian. C. (2012). Characterization of gelatin and casein films modified by microbial transglutaminase and the application as coating agents in leather finishing, JALCA, 107(1), 13-20.
• [20] Camuffo, A., Furlan, A., Romano, P., Vinelli. A. (2005). Breathing Shoes and Complementarities: How Geox has Rejuvenated the Footwear Industry, MIT IPC Working Paper IPC-05-005, 15.10.2018. https://ipc.mit.edu/sites/default/files/documents/05-005.pdf
• [21] EN ISO 16187 August 2013; Footwear and footwear components - Test method to assess antibacterial activity
• [22] Matijević, I., Bischof, S., Pušić. T. (2016). Cosmetic preparations on textiles: Cosmetotextiles. Tekstil, 65(1-2), 1-12.
• [23] Ocepek, B. and Forte Tavče, P. (2008). Textile microcapsulation (in Slovenian). Tekstilec, 51(7–9), 216–230.
• [24] Walford, J. (2010). Shoes A-Z: designers, brands, manufacturers and retailers. Thames & Hudson (London)
• [25] http://www.geox.biz/static/upload/geo/geox-investor-day-26022016-eng.pdf, 17.11.2018.
• [26] https://breathe.geox.com/en/technologies/, 17.11.2018.
• [27] Polegato Moretti. M. (2013). Vapor-permeable shoe with waterproof and vapor-permeable sole, EU Patent, EP 2640209 B1
• [28] Commission Decision 2016/1349 of 5 August 2016 establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the EU Ecolabel for footwear, (in Croat). Web site: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/HR/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A32017D1392
• [29] Lee, J. (2015). Material Alchemy. BIS Publisher. (Amsterdam)
• [30] Žiljak, V., Akalović, J., Žiljak Vuji,. J. (2011). Dye control on leather in the visual and infrared spectrum. Tekstil, 60(8), 355–363.
• [31] Akalović, J., Žiljak, V. (2012). Duality in designing leather products (in Croat), Book of Proceedings Printing 2012. & Design, ed. Žiljak Vujić. J. Croatian Academy of Technical Sciences, Donja Stubica, 134.
• [32] Žiljak, V., Akalović, J. (2012). Design of leather’s surface properties in close infrared spectrum (in Croat). Koža & obuća, 59(4-6), 28-29.
• [33] Kutnjak-Mravlinčić, S., Bischof, S., Sutlović, A. (2015). Application of additive technology in footwear design, Book of Proceedings (8th Central European Conference on Fiber-grade Polymers, Chemical Fibers and Special Textiles), Dekanić, T. and Tarbuk, A. (ed.), Zagreb, University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology, 201-206.
• [34] Davia-Aracil, M., Hinojo-Perez, J., Jimeno-Morenilla, A. (2018). 3D printing of functional anatomical insoles. Computers in Industry, 98, 38-53.
• [35] Sun Lim, H. (2017). Development of 3D Printed Shoe Designs Using Traditional Muntin Patterns. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 19/2, 134-139.
• [36] Black, S. (2012). Footwear Designer Ross Barber in Conversation with Sandy Black. Fashion Practice - The Journal of Design, Creative Process and the Fashion Industry, 4/2, 263-268.
• [37] Koslov, T. (2015). MIT Designers 3D Print Wearer-Reactive Footwear. Retrieved 23.12.2018. Web site: https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/mit-designers-3d-print-wearer-reactive-footwear-61346/

Uwagi

Opracowanie rekordu ze środków MNiSW, umowa Nr 461252 w ramach programu "Społeczna odpowiedzialność nauki" - moduł: Popularyzacja nauki i promocja sportu (2021).