Analysis of Woven Fabric at the Place of the Sewn Seam

• Autorzy: Rogina-Car B. , Schwarz I. , Kovačević S.

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.1515/aut-2017-0022

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

Key importance and the role of sewn seam in the woven fabric are presented. Fabric properties in the places joined with the sewn seam on which garment durability, applicability, appearance and quality depend are highlighted. Seam location is usually the weakest spot on the garment, especially when the great loads are present at these places. Mechanical properties of the sewn fabrics were investigated in different test conditions. The influence of the load on the sewn seam is analyzed in time intervals. Sample with seam have approximately 70% lower breaking properties (breaking force and elongation at break) than the sample without seam. By preloading the seam fabrics with 30%, 50% and 70% of elongation at break, for a 3-h period, the effect on mechanical properties were tested and the differences in pre-stretching intensity were observed. By conducting such test, it is expected that the fabric experience further degradation and that breaking properties further reduce, but the exact opposite occurred (breaking properties, by increasing the preload, increase even more), because of various material properties (structural fabric properties, raw material characteristics, seam characteristics).

Słowa kluczowe

EN

sewn seam; mechanical properties; loading; wool woven fabric; polyester woven fabric

PL

szwy; właściwości mechaniczne; ładowanie; tkaniny wełniane; tkanina poliestrowa

• Wydawca: Lodz University of Technology, Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design
• Czasopismo: Autex Research Journal
• Rocznik: 2018
• Tom: Vol. 18, no. 3
• Strony: 216--220
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 15 poz.

Twórcy

autor

Rogina-Car B.

• University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Department for Clothing Technology, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28a,10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, phone: [phone], fax: [phone]

autor

Schwarz I.

• University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Department of Textile Design and Management, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28a, 10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, phone: [phone], fax: [phone]

autor

Kovačević S.

• University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Department of Textile Design and Management, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28a, 10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, phone: [phone], fax: [phone]

Bibliografia

• [1] Bharani, M., Shiyamaladevi, P.S.S., Mahendra Gowda, R.V. (2012). Characterization of Seam Strength and Seam Slippage on Cotton Fabric with Woven Structures and Finish. Research Journal of Engineering Sciences, 1, 41-50.
• [2] Thanaa Moustaf AL Sarhan. (2013). Interaction between Sewing Thread Size and Stitch Density and Its Effects on the Seam Quality of Wool Fabrics. Journal of Applied Sciences Research, 9(8), 4548-4557.
• [3] Mandal S, Theses, Institute of Textiles & Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, 2008.
• [4] Germanova-Krasteva, D., Petrov, H., (2008). Investigation on the seam’s quality by sewing of light fabrics. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 20 (1), 57-64.
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• [7] Abdul Ghani S., (2011). Seam performance: Analysis and Modelling. Thesis, Manchester, UK: The University of Manchester.
• [8] LaPere C., (2006). The Effects of Different Fabric Types and Seam Designs on the Seams [sic] Efficiency. Senior Honors Theses. 53., Eastern Michigan University.
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• [10] Jucienë, M., Vobolis, J., (2006). Investigation of Stitch Length Change under the Conditions of Sweding Garment Inertia Motion. Tekstil, 55 (5), 244-248.
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• [12] Ujević, D., Kovačević, S., Wadsworth, L.C., Schwarz, I., Brlobašić Šajatović, B. (2009). Analysis of artificial leather with textile fabric on the backside. Journal of textile and apparel technology and management. 6 (2), 1-9.
• [13] Geršak, J., (2001). Directions of sewing technique and clothing engineering development (in Croatian). Tekstil, 50 (5), 221–229.
• [14] Vobolis, J., Jucienë, M., (2003). Estimation of Fabrics Dynamical Stiffness and Damping in Sewing Garments. Tekstil 52 (4), 160-165.
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Uwagi

Opracowanie rekordu w ramach umowy 509/P-DUN/2018 ze środków MNiSW przeznaczonych na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (2018).