Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

• Autorzy: Cerkowniak G. R. , Ostrowski R. , Stella M.

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.1515/heem-2015-00017

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly by breaking. The main field data comprise offshore wave parameters and three cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Waveinduced nearbed velocities and bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for weak, moderate, strong and extreme storm conditions to determine sediment motion regimes at various locations on the seaward boundary of the surf zone. The paper contains a discussion on the depth of closure concept, according to which the offshore range of sea bottom changes can be determined by the extreme seasonal deep-water wave parameters.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

cross-shore seabed profile; offshore wave climate; wave transformation; nearbed flow velocities; bed shear stress; sediment motion; depth of closure

• Wydawca: Institute of Hydro-Engineering of Polish Academy of Sciences
• Czasopismo: Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
• Rocznik: 2015
• Tom: Vol. 62, nr 1-2
• Strony: 27--39
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 20 poz., rys., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Cerkowniak G. R.

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Koscierska 7, 80-328 Gdansk, Poland

autor

Ostrowski R.

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Koscierska 7, 80-328 Gdansk, Poland

autor

Stella M.

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Koscierska 7, 80-328 Gdansk, Poland

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