Fancy yarns - an appraisal

• Autorzy: Grabowska K E , Ciesielska I. L. , Vasile S.
• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

The great interest in fancy yarns area was noticed at the textile market all over the world as well as in science area. That interest may be the consequence of liberalization in trade with countries like China. Due to liberalization in fancy yarns sector trade between Europe and Asia, the main Asian producers of fancy yarns compete with each other to offer more and more sophisticated products. The production of fancy yarns has been differentiated and enriched in such scale that makes almost impossible to catalog and standardized all the produced types. However, certain activities has been taken up at The Technical University of Lodz with cooperation of the University of Gent to investigate the area from scientific point of view, mainly by tests based on fancy cotton yarns e.g. spiral, loop and bunch as well as fancy elastic yarns e.g. spiral, bunch and flame yarns. The aspects of fancy yarns implementation into fabrics will be considered as well as positioning those scientific activities at the European level with connection to the global policy. Therefore, the aim of this paper is bringing closer the matters concerning fancy cotton yarns and fancy elastic yarns from scientific point of view on a base of chosen examples carrying out a comparison of physical properties of those fancy yarns, the introduction of those yarns as wefts into fabrics. The aesthetic aspects and behaviour at wear of final products will be considered. The first experiment concerns the production, on the ring twisting frame, of three types of fancy cotton yarns, spiral, loop and bunch which were differentiated in respect of twist, linear density, the angel of lap of pegs by yarn on the slat of ring-twisting frame (the input only for spiral yarns) and the frequency of rocker's action in ring-twisting frame (the input only for bunch yarns). All obtained yarns were analysed in respect of real value of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), breaking force (cN/tex), elongation during breaking (%), air index (m/sec), bending rigidity (cN*cm) and width of hysteresis from bending rigidity test (cN*cm/cm). The fancy cotton fabrics were analysed in respect of mass surface (g/m2), friction-mass loss (g), piling, flexural rigidity (mg*cm), tearing (N), creasing, breaking force (cN/cm) and elongation while breaking. The second experiment concerns the production, on the hollow spindle, of three types of fancy elastic yarns, loop, bunch and flame yarns which were differentiated in respect of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), the value of stretch given to the elastic component (%) and preparation of the bobbin - precise and normal. All obtained yarns were analysed in respect of real value of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), breaking force (cN/tex), elongation during breaking (%), air index (m/sec). The fancy elastic fabrics were analysed in respect of mass surface, flexural rigidity (mg*cm), creasing, breaking force (cN/cm) and elongation while breaking (%) and dimensional stability. All the statistical analyses were carried out with usage of multiple regression module.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

fancy yarns; production of fancy yarns; spiral yarn; flame yarn; bunch yarn; fancy yarns properties; fancy fabric properties; fancy elastic yarns; trade policy

PL

przędze ozdobne; produkcja przędzy ozdobnej; przędze spiralne; właściwości przędzy ozdobnej; właściwości tkaniny ozdobnej; elastyczne przędze ozdobne; polityka handlowa

• Wydawca: Lodz University of Technology, Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design
• Czasopismo: Autex Research Journal
• Rocznik: 2009
• Tom: Vol. 9, no. 3
• Strony: 74--81
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 15 poz., il.

Twórcy

autor

Grabowska K E

• The Technical University of Lodz, The Institute of Architecture of Textiles, Zeromskiego street 116, 90-543 Lodz, Poland

autor

Ciesielska I. L.

• The Technical University of Lodz, The Institute of Architecture of Textiles, Zeromskiego street 116, 90-543 Lodz, Poland

autor

Vasile S.

• The University of Ghent Technologiepark 907, 9052 Zwijnaarde-Ghent, Belgium

Bibliografia

• 1. MultiFibre Arrangement, WTO, 1974.
• 2. Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC), WTO, 1995.
• 3. www.fiber2fashion.com
• 4. www.yarnsandfibers.com
• 5. www.cordis.europa.eu/search/
• 6. Gong, R.H., R.M. Wright, “Fancy Yarns. Their manufacture and application” The Textile Institute, 2002.
• 7. Grabowska,K.E., “Characteristic of bunch fancy yarns”-Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, vol. 7,nr 4, p 34-38, 1999.
• 8. Grabowska,K.E., “Characteristic of fancy loop yarns”- Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, vol. 8, nr 1, 2000.
• 9. Van Langenhove, L., Grabowska, K.E., Masajtis, J., Vasile, S., Ciesielska, I. L., Barburski M., The Analysis of the structure and its influence on properties of spiral, loop, bunch” - 5 th World Textile Conference AUTEX 2005, 27-29 June 2005, Portoro, Slovenia.
• 10. “The influence of component yarns characteristics and ring twisting frame settings on the structure and properties of spiral, loop and bunch yarns” - Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2/2006 - Katarzyna Ewa Grabowska, Simona Vasile, Lieva Van Langenhove, Izabela Luiza Ciesielska, Marcin Barburski.
• 11. Grabowska K.E., Vasile.S, Van Langenhove L., Ciesielska I.L., Barburski M., The Influence of component yarns’ characteristics and ring twisting frame settings on the structure and properties of spiral, loop and bunch yarns, fibres and textiles in eastern Europe, vol. 14, nr 3, 2006.
• 12. Grabowska K.E., Influence of the structural parameters on the strength of fancy yarns. The mathematical approach, seminar “The magical world of fancy yarns”, University of Ghent, Department of Textiles, Belgium, 19 January 2006.
• 13. Grabowska K.E., Van Langenhove L., Vasile S., Barburski M., Ciesielska I., “Bending property of the yarns and woven fabrics”, Proceedings of The 6th World Textile Conference AUTEX 2006, June 2006, Raileigh, USA.
• 14. Grabowska K.E.,. Van Langenhove L , Vasille S.,Ciesielska I. L, Barburski M. “ The magical world of fancy yarns. The Statistical analysis of fancy yarns properties”- 6th World Textile Conference AUTEX 2005 w Relaigh, USA, 11-14 of June 2006.
• 15. Al Dib, S., Snycerski, M. “A new winding package structure for stepped precision winding method” VIII Scientific Conference. Faculty of Textile Engineering and Marketing, 2005.