Mechanical behaviour of seams on treated fabrics

• Autorzy: Kordoghli B. , Cheikhrouhou M. , Saidene C. K.
• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

The purpose of this work is to find out the performance of seams after successive treatments applied to fabric. Performance of seams is given by their load/elongation behaviour. In this study, woven fabrics are chosen to investigate the effect of their chemical and mechanical finishing process (desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing and sueding) on the behaviour of the seams. Three factors have been studied: Treatment, Density (number of stitches per centimeter) and seam direction (weft or warp direction). Two responses are measured: seam elongation at break and seam breaking force. The initial fabrics properties before stitched have an important impact on the behaviour of the seams. This work explains that it is more useful to study the yield point than the rupture point; because for the wear, the elastic phase (recovery) is more import ant than the plastic phase. Studying yield point of seams explains better the reality limit of use of stitched fabrics. The increase of the number of stitches per centimetre ameliorates the breaking resistance of seam, but not the elongation at break. However the density has small effects on the yield point.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

seams; finishing; stress; strain; density; yield point

PL

szwy; wykończenie; naprężenie; odkształcenie; gęstość; granica plastyczności

• Wydawca: Lodz University of Technology, Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design
• Czasopismo: Autex Research Journal
• Rocznik: 2009
• Tom: Vol. 9, no. 3
• Strony: 87--92
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 8 poz., wykr.

Twórcy

autor

Kordoghli B.

• Textile Research Unit of ISET Ksar Hellal, B.P 68 Ksar Hellal 5070, TUNISIA ,Tel. [phone], Fax [phone]

autor

Cheikhrouhou M.

• Textile Research Unit of ISET Ksar Hellal, B.P 68 Ksar Hellal 5070, TUNISIA ,Tel. [phone], Fax [phone]

autor

Saidene C. K.

• Textile Research Unit of ISET Ksar Hellal, B.P 68 Ksar Hellal 5070, TUNISIA ,Tel. [phone], Fax [phone]

Bibliografia

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• 3. Sundaresan G, Salhotra K.R. and Hari P.K. (1998) “Strength reduction in sewing threads during high speed sewing in industrial lockstitch machine, part II: effect of thread and fabric properties”, International journal of clothing science and technology, Vol. 10 (1), pp 64-79.
• 4. Kawabata Sueo and Masako Niwa (1998) “Clothing engineering based on objective measurement technology”,International journal of cloting science and technology, Vol. 10 (3/4), pp 263-272.
• 5. Dorkin, C.M.C. and Chamberlain (1963) “The facts about needle heating”, technological report No 13, Clothing institute.
• 6. Gojko Nikolic, Zeljko Somodi and Diana Franulic Saric(2003), “Mechanical properties of sewing stitch performed in frozen state”, International journal of clothing science and technology, Vol. 15 (3/4), pp. 198-203.
• 7. Schindler W. D. and Hauser P. J., Chemical finishing of textiles, The Textile Institute, CRC Press (2004).
• 8. Hans-Karl Rouette, Encyclopedia of textile finishing, Springer 2000.