Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast

• Autorzy: Różyński G.

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.1515/heem-2018-0007

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every 500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic component of beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attempt was then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastal morphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

coastal morphology; wave energy dissipation; equilibrium profiles; data-driven modelling; signal processing

• Wydawca: Institute of Hydro-Engineering of Polish Academy of Sciences
• Czasopismo: Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
• Rocznik: 2018
• Tom: Vol. 65, nr 2
• Strony: 91--108
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 24 poz., rys.

Twórcy

autor

Różyński G.

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Kościerska 7, 80-953 Gdańsk, Poland

Bibliografia

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Uwagi

Opracowanie rekordu w ramach umowy 509/P-DUN/2018 ze środków MNiSW przeznaczonych na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (2019).