Circular economy rebound effect in the context of second-hand clothing consumption

• Autorzy: Ciechelska Agnieszka , Matel Anna , Poskrobko Tomasz , Sidorczuk-Pietraszko Edyta

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.34659/eis.2023.87.4.635

Warianty tytułu

PL

Efekt odbicia w kontekście konsumpcji odzieży używanej

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

The purpose of this paper was to investigate whether consumer behaviour in the second-hand clothing market causes a rebound effect, and if so, what are the reasons behind it. The study examined two potential causes: the price effect and moral licensing. A survey technique was used for data collection to study the phenomenon quantitatively. Non-parametric tests, analysis of relationships between variables and hierarchical cluster analysis were used to analyse the results. The existence of a rebound effect in the used clothing market was confirmed. At the same time, the magnitude of the substitution rate between new clothing and used clothing was estimated at 1:1.23. It was also proved that the phenomenon under study is influenced by both the price effect and moral licensing.

PL

Celem niniejszej pracy było zbadanie, czy zachowania konsumentów na rynku odzieży używanej powodują efekt odbicia, a jeśli tak, to jakie przyczyny za tym stoją. W badaniach sprawdzono dwie potencjalne przyczyny: efekt cenowy oraz licencjonowanie moralne. Badanie miało charakter ilościowy. Wykorzystano technikę sondażu. Do analizy wyników wykorzystano testy nieparametryczne, analizę zależności między zmiennymi a także hierarchiczną analizę skupień. Potwierdzono istnienie efektu odbicia na rynku odzieży używanej. Jednocześnie oszacowano wielkość stopy zastąpienia zakupu odzieży nowej odzieżą używaną na poziomie 1:1.23. Udowodniono także, że na badane zjawisko wpływa zarówno efekt cenowy, jak i licencjonowanie moralne.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

second-hand clothing; circular economy; rebound effect; price effect; moral licensing

PL

odzież używana; gospodarka obiegu zamkniętego; efekt odbicia; efekt cenowy; moralne licencjonowanie

• Wydawca: Fundacja Ekonomistów Środowiska i Zasobów Naturalnych
• Czasopismo: Economics and Environment
• Rocznik: 2023
• Tom: No. 4
• Strony: 1--20
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 44 poz., tab., wykr.

Twórcy

autor

Ciechelska Agnieszka

• Wroclaw University of Economics and Business

• https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3996-3897

autor

Matel Anna

• University of Bialystok

• https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4239-914X

autor

Poskrobko Tomasz

• University of Bialystok, Warszawska Street 63, 15-062 Bialystok, Poland

• https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6981-8180

autor

Sidorczuk-Pietraszko Edyta

• University of Bialystok

• https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3532-477X

Bibliografia

• Abdelmeguid, A., Afy-Shararah, M., & Salonitis, K. (2022). Investigating the challenges of applying the principles of the circular economy in the fashion industry: A systematic review. Sustainable Production and Consumption, 32, 505-518. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.SPC.2022.05.009
• Babel, N., Toma, A., & Sivanandan, A. (2019). Comparative Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of second-hand vs new clothing. https://cf-assets-tup.thredup.com/about/pwa/thredUP-Clothing-Lifecycle-Study.pdf
• Bauer, A., & Menrad, K. (2020). The nexus between moral licensing and behavioral consistency: Is organic consumption a door-opener for commitment to climate protection? The Social Science Journal, 0(0), 1-15.
• Bell, A., Ward, P., Tamal, M.E.H. et al. (2019). Assessing recall bias and measurement error in high-frequency social data collection for human-environment research. Population and Environment, 40, 325–345. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11111-019-0314-1
• Bick, R., Halsey, E., & Ekenga, C. C. (2018). The global environmental injustice of fast fashion. Environmental Health: A Global Access Science Source, 17(1), 92. https://doi.org/10.1186/S12940-018-0433-7
• Boulding, K. (1966). The Economics of the Coming Spaceship Earth. In H. Jarrett (Ed.), Environmental Quality in a Growing Economy (pp. 3-14). Baltimore: Resources for the Future/Johns Hopkins University Press.
• Burger, A. M., Schuler, J., & Eberling, E. (2022). Guilty pleasures: Moral licensing in climate-related behavior. Global Environmental Change, 72, 102415. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.gloenvcha.2021.102415
• Campos, P. A. (2022). Circular economy rebound effect in the context of secondhand clothing consumption in the Netherlands [Master Thesis]. University of Twente.
• Chen, H. L., & Burns, L. D. (2006). Environmental analysis of textile products. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24(3), 248-261. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X06293065
• Chetty, E. K. (2022). Is second-hand the silver bullet for sustainable fashion consumption? Understanding second-hand clothing consumption rebound effects [Master Thesis]. Lund University. https://lup.lub.lu.se/luur/download?func=downloadFile&recordOId=9097155&fileOId=9097156
• Corona, B., Shen, L., Reike, D., Rosales Carreón, J., & Worrell, E. (2019). Towards sustainable development through the circular economy. A review and critical assessment on current circularity metrics. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 151, 104498. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.RESCONREC.2019.104498
• Dabija, D.-C., Bejan, B. M., & Dinu, V. (2019). How sustainability oriented is generation Z in retail? A literature review. Transformations in Business & Economics, 18(2), 140-155.
• Du, C., Zheng, Y., & Liu, W. (2023). Unveiling the mystery: Does the traffic control policy in Beijing trigger a rebound effect in household electric vehicles? Sustainable Production and Consumption, 37, 1-10. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.SPC.2023.02.005
• European Commission, Consumers, Health, Agriculture and Food Executive Agency, Cerulli-Harms, A., Porsch, L., & Suter, J. (2018). Behavioural study on consumers’ engagement in the circular economy. https://data.europa.eu/doi/10.2818/921596
• European Commission. (2014). Communication from The Commission to The European Parliament, The Council, The European Economic and Social Committee and The Committee Of The Regions Towards a circular economy: A zero waste programme for Europe, Pub. L. No. 52014DC0398. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=celex%3A52014DC0398
• European Commission. (2020). Communication from the Commission to the European Parliament, the Council, the European Economic and Social Committee and the Committee of the Regions: A new Circular Economy Action Plan for a cleaner and more competitive Europe, Pub. L. No. 52020DC0098. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=COM%3A2020%3A98%3AFIN
• Farrant, L., Olsen, S. I., & Wangel, A. (2010). Environmental benefits from reusing clothes. International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, 15(7), 726-736. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11367-010-0197-y
• Gillingham, K., Rapson, D., & Wagner, G. (2014). The Rebound Effect and Energy Efficiency Policy. Review of Environmental Economics and Policy, Association of Environmental and Resource Economists, 10(1), 68-88.
• Graham, C. A., Catania, J. A., Brand, R., Duong, T., & Canchola, J. A. (2003). Recalling sexual behavior: A methodological analysis of memory recall bias via interview using the diary as the gold standard. The Journal of Sex Research, 40(4), 325-332. https://doi.org/10.1080/00224490209552198
• Jevons, W. S. (1865). The Coal Question. An inquiry concerning the progress of the nation and the probable exhaustion of our coal-mines. London: Macmillan and Co.
• Liang, J., & Xu, Y. (2018). Second-hand clothing consumption: A generational cohort analysis of the Chinese market. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 42(1), 120-130. https://doi.org/10.1111/IJCS.12393
• Liu, X., Wang, S., Li, Y., Ali, S., Khan, Y. A., Salem, S., & Huang, X. (2022). Recycling in Textile Sector: A New Circular Economy Approach Towards Ecology and Environmental Sustainability. Frontiers in Environmental Science, 10. https://doi.org/10.3389/fenvs.2022.929710
• Makov, T., & Vivanco, D. F. (2018). Does the circular economy grow the pie? The case of rebound effects from smartphone reuse. Frontiers in Energy Research, 6(MAY), 39. https://doi.org/10.3389/FENRG.2018.00039
• Malmaeus, M., Hasselström, L., Mellin, A., Nyblom, Å., & Åkerman, J. (2023). Addressing rebound effects in transport policy – Insights from exploring five case studies. Transport Policy, 131, 45-55. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.TRANPOL.2022.12.004
• McCollough, J. (2007). The effect of income growth on the mix of purchases between disposable goods and reusable goods. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 31(3), 213-219. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1470-6431.2006.00504.x
• Miura, Y. (2021). Use-PSS rebound: Carbon footprint reduction potential of clothing rental subscription with consideration of direct economic rebound effect [Master Thesis]. Nijmegen School of Management. https://theses.ubn.ru.nl/server/api/core/bitstreams/5ccdfcc6-16ff-45db-9995-e06705ef3d5b/content
• Munyon, V. V., Bowen, W. M., & Holcombe, J. (2018). Vehicle fuel economy and vehicle miles travelled: An empirical investigation of Jevon’s Paradox. Energy Research & Social Science, 38, 19-27. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.erss.2018.01.007
• Nichols, B.M.S., & Holt, J.W. (2023). A comparison of sustainability attitudes and intentions across generations and gender: A perspective from U.S. consumers. Management Letters/Cuadernos de Gestión, 23(1), 51-62. https://doi.org/10.5295/cdg.211647bs
• Ottelin, J., Cetinay, H., & Behrens, P. (2020). Rebound effects may jeopardize the resource savings of circular consumption: evidence from household material footprints. Environmental Research Letters, 15(10), 104044. https://doi.org/10.1088/1748-9326/abaa78
• Piot, G. (2022). The rebound effect of reuse: a case study of second-hand clothing [Master Thesis]. Glasgow Caledonian University. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/362841531_The_rebound_effect_of_reuse_a_case_study_of_second-hand_clothing
• Prayag, G., Aquino, R. S., Hall, C. M., Chen, N. (Chris), & Fieger, P. (2022). Is Gen Z really that different? Environmental attitudes, travel behaviours and sustainability practices of international tourists to Canterbury, New Zealand. Journal of Sustainable Tourism, 1-22. https://doi.org/10.1080
• Rabiu, M. K., & Jaeger-Erben, M. (2022). Appropriation and routinisation of circular consumer practices: A review of current knowledge in the circular economy literature. Cleaner and Responsible Consumption, 7, 100081. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clrc.2022.100081
• Roche, N., Klaessen, J., & Gazzola, P. (2019). A circular economy for a sustainable society: a review of the concept and its feasibility. Nature Reviews. Earth & Environment, 1(2), 85-95.
• Sandin, G., & Peters, G. M. (2018). Environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling – A review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 184, 353-365. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.JCLEPRO.2018.02.266
• Santarius, T., & Soland, M. (2016). Towards a Psychological Theory and Comprehensive Rebound Typology. In T. Santarius, H. Walnum & C. Aall (Eds.), Rethinking Climate and Energy Policies (pp. 107-119). Cham: Springer.
• Shirvanimoghaddam, K., Motamed, B., Ramakrishna, S., & Naebe, M. (2020). Death by waste: Fashion and textile circular economy case. Science of the Total Environment, 718, 137317. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.SCITOTENV.2020.137317
• Sorrell, S. (2007). The Rebound Effect: An assessment of the evidence for economy-wide energy savings from improved energy efficiency. https://d2e1qxpsswcpgz.cloudfront.net/uploads/2020/03/the-rebound-effect-an-assessment-of-the-evidence-for-economy-wide-energy-savings-from-improved-energy-efficiency.pdf
• Statista. (2023, February 10). Textile fiber production worldwide 1975-2030. https://www.statista.com/statistics/1250985/global-textile-fiber-production/
• Thomas, V. M. (2003). Demand and Dematerialization Impacts of Second-Hand Markets. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 7(2), 65-78. https://www.academia.edu/23200443/Demand_and_Dematerialization_Impacts_of_Second_Hand_Markets
• Tiefenbeck, V., Staake, T., Roth, K., & Sachs, O. (2013). For better or for worse? Empirical evidence of moral licensing in a behavioral energy conservation campaign. Energy Policy, 57, 160-171. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.enpol.2013.01.021
• Vidal-Ayuso, F., Akhmedova, A., & Jaca, C. (2023). The circular economy and consumer behaviour: Literature review and research directions. Journal of Cleaner Production, 418, 137824. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2023.137824
• Wang, X., Zhang, T., Nathwani, J., Yang, F., & Shao, Q. (2022). Environmental regulation, technology innovation, and low carbon development: Revisiting the EKC Hypothesis, Porter Hypothesis, and Jevons’ Paradox in China’s iron & steel industry. Technological Forecasting and Social Change, 176, 121471. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.techfore.2022.121471
• Wang, Y., Long, A., Xiang, L., Deng, X., Zhang, P., Hai, Y., Wang, J., & Li, Y. (2020). The verification of Jevons’ paradox of agricultural water conservation in Tianshan District of China based on Water footprint. Agricultural Water Management, 239, 106163. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.agwat.2020.106163
• Zink, T., & Geyer, R. (2017). Circular Economy Rebound. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 21(3), 593-602. https://doi.org/10.1111/jiec.12545