Note on estimating bed shear stress caused by breaking random waves

• Autorzy: Myrhaug Dag , Ong Muk Chen

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.1016/j.oceano.2021.03.004

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

This note presents a method of how the bed shear stress caused by breaking random waves on slopes can be estimated. This is obtained by adopting the Sumer et al. (2013) bed shear stress formula due to spilling and plunging breaking waves on hydraulically smooth slopes combined with the Myrhaug and Fouques (2012) joint distribution of surf similarity parameter and wave height for individual random waves in deep water. The conditional mean value of the maxima of mean bed shear stress during wave runup given wave height in deep water is provided including an example for spilling and plunging breaking random waves corresponding to typical field conditions. Another example compares the present results with one case from Thornton and Guza (1983) estimating the wave energy dissipation caused by bed shear stress beneath breaking random waves.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

bed shear stress; breaking random waves; surf similarity parameter; wave height; individual waves; joint distributions; surf zones; swash zones

• Wydawca: Polish Academy of Sciences, Institute of Oceanology ; Elsevier
• Czasopismo: Oceanologia
• Rocznik: 2021
• Tom: No. 63 (3)
• Strony: 385--390
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 12 poz., wykr.

Twórcy

autor

Myrhaug Dag

• Department of Marine Technology, Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU), Trondheim, Norway

autor

Ong Muk Chen

• Department of Mechanical and Structural Engineering and Materials Science, University of Stavanger, Stavanger, Norway

Bibliografia

• [1] Battjes, J. A., 1974. Surf similarity. In: Proceedings 14th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering, 1, New York. ASCE, 466-479.
• [2] Bury, K. V., 1975. Statistical Models in Applied Science. John Wiley & Sons, New York, 646 pp.
• [3] Deigaard, R., Mikkelsen, M. B., Fredsøe, J., 1991. Measurements of bed shear stress in a surf zone. Prog. Rep., 73. Inst. Hydrodyn. and Hydraulic Eng., Tech. Univ., Copenhagen, Denmark, 21-30.
• [4] Galvin, C. J., 1968. Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches. J. Geophys. Res. 73 (12), 3651-3659.
• [5] Iribarren, C. R., Nogales, C., 1949. Protection des ports (Sect. 2, Comm. 4). In: 17th Int. Nav. Congress, Lisbon, 31-80.
• [6] Myrhaug, D., Fouques, S., 2012. Joint distributions of wave height with surf parameter and breaker index for individual waves. Coast. Eng. 60, 235-247. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.10.008.
• [7] Myrhaug, D., Kjeldsen, S. P., 1984. Parametric modeling of joint probability density distributions for steepness and asymmetry in deep water waves. Appl. Ocean Res. 6 (4), 207-220.
• [8] Soulsby, R. L., 1997. Dynamics of Marine Sands. Thomas Telford, London, UK, 249 pp.
• [9] Sumer, B. M., Fuhrman, D. R., 2020. Turbulence in Coastal and Civil Engineering. World Scientific, Singapore, 731 pp.
• [10] Sumer, B. M., Guner, H. A. A., Hansen, N. M., Fuhrman, D. R., Fredsøe, J., 2013. Laboratory observations of flow and sediment transport induced by plunging regular waves. J. Geophys Res. 118, 6161-6182. https://doi.org/10.1002/2013JC009324.
• [11] Thornton, E. B., Guza, R. T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. J. Geophys Res. 88 (C10), 5925-5938.
• [12] Tucker, M. J., Pitt, E. G., 2001. Waves in Ocean Engineering. Elsevier, Amsterdam, 521 pp.

Uwagi

Opracowanie rekordu ze środków MNiSW, umowa Nr 461252 w ramach programu "Społeczna odpowiedzialność nauki" - moduł: Popularyzacja nauki i promocja sportu (2021).