On the geometry of ocean surface waves

• Autorzy: Massel S.R.
• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

The factors influencing the atmosphere-ocean transfer of mass and momentum, as well as incipient wave breaking and the amount of energy dissipated due to breaking, are discussed in detail. In particular, the influence of directional spreading on the statistics of surface wave slopes and the area of the wind-roughened ocean surface is demonstrated. Theoretical analysis and comparison with the available experimental data show that unimodal directional spreading is not able to reproduce the observed ratio of the cross-wind/up-wind mean square slopes. Better agreement is achieved when bimodal directional spreading, consisting of two wrapped-Gaussian distributions, is applied. The bimodal form suggested by Ewans (1998) is used in the paper. Moreover, the formulae developed here show that the increase in the area due to surface waves is rather small for both regular and irregular waves.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

ocean surface waves; wave slopes; frequency-directional spectra; surface wave area

• Wydawca: Polish Academy of Sciences, Institute of Oceanology ; Elsevier
• Czasopismo: Oceanologia
• Rocznik: 2011
• Tom: No. 53 (2)
• Strony: 521--548
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 30 poz., wykr.

Twórcy

autor

Massel S.R.

• Institute of Oceanology, Polish Academy of Sciences, Powstańców Warszawy 55, Sopot 81-712, Poland

Bibliografia

• 1.Abramowitz M., Stegun I.A., 1975, Handbook of mathematical functions, Dover Publ., New York, 1045 pp.
• 2.Apel J.R., 1994, An improved model of the ocean surface wave vector spectrum and its effects on radar backscatter, J. Geophys. Res., 99 (C8), 16 269-16 291.
• 3.Banner M. L., 1990, Equilibrium spectra of wind waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 20 (7), 966-984.
• 4.Banner M. L., Young I.R., 1994, Modelling spectral dissipation in the evolution of wind waves. Part I: Assessment of existing model performance, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 24 (7), 1550-1571.
• 5.Bjerkas A.W., Riedel F.W., 1979, Proposed model for the elevation spectrum of a wind-roughened sea surface, Tech. Rep., APL-TG-1328-I-31, Appl. Phys. Lab., Johns Hopkins Univ., 31 pp.
• 6.Cox C., Munk W., 1954, Measurement of the roughness of the sea surface from photographs of the sun's glitter, J. Opt. Soc. Am., 44 (11), 838-850.
• 7.Donelan M.A., Hamilton J., Hui W.H., 1985, Directional spectra of wind-generated waves, Philos. T. Roy. Soc. A, 315 (1534), 509-562.
• 8.Elfouhaily T., Chapron B., Katsaros K., 1997, A unified directional spectrum for long and short wind-driven waves, J. Geophys. Res., 102 (C7), 15 781-15 796.
• 9.Ewans K.C., 1998, Observations of the directional spectrum of fetch-limited waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 28 (3), 495-512.
• 10.Ewans K.C., van der Vlugt T., 1999, Estimating bimodal frequency-direction spectra from surface buoy data recorded during tropical cyclones, J. Offshore Mech. Arct., 121 (3), 172-180.
• 11.Goda Y., 1981, Simulation in examination of directional resolution, [in:] Directional wave spectra, R. L. Wiegel (ed.), ASCE, Waterway, 387-407.
• 12.Hasselmann K., Barnett T.P., Bouws E., Carlson H., Cartwright D.E., Enke K., Ewing J.A., Gienapp H., Hasselmann D.E., Kruseman P., Meerburg A., Müller P., Olbers D. J., Richter K., Sell W., Walden H., 1973, Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), Deutsches Hydr. Zeit., A12, 1-95.
• 13.Hasselmann D.E., Dunckel M., Ewing J.A., 1980, Directional wave spectra observed during JONSWAP 1973, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 10 (8), 1264-1280.
• 14.Heron M. L., Skirving W. J., Michael K. J., 2006, Short-wave ocean wave slope models for use in remote sensing data analysis, IEEE T. Geosci. Remote, 44 (7), 1962-1973.
• 15.Hughes B.A., Grant H. L., Chappell R.W., 1977, A fast response surface-wave slope meter and measured wind-wave moments, Deep-Sea Res., 24 (12), 1211-1223.
• 16.Hwang P.A., Shemdin O.H., 1988, The dependence of sea surface slope on atmospheric stability and swell conditions, J. Geophys. Res., 93 (C11), 13 903 -13 912.
• 17.Hwang P.A., Wang D.W., 2001, Directional distributions and mean square slopes in the equilibrium and saturation ranges of the wave spectrum, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 31 (5), 1346-1360.
• 18.Krylov J.M., Strekalov S. S., Cyplukhin V. F., 1976, Wind waves and their effect on marine constructions, Gidrometeoizdat, Leningrad, 256 pp., (in Russian).
• 19.Kuik A. J., van Vledder Ph., Holthuijsen L.H., 1988, A method for the routine analysis of pitch-and-roll buoy wave data, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 18 (7), 1020 -1034.
• 20.Longuet-Higgins M. S., 1957, The statistical analysis of a random, moving surface, Phil. T. Roy. Soc., 249 (966), 321-387.
• 21.Longuet-Higgins M. S., Cartwright D. E., Smith N.D., 1961, Observations of the directional spectrum of sea waves using the motions of a floating buoy, [in:] Ocean wave spectrum, Prentice-Hall Inc., Engelwood Cliffs, 111-136.
• 22.Mardia K.V., 1972, Statistics of directional data, Acad. Press, London, 240 pp.
• 23.Massel S.R., 1996, Ocean surface waves: their physics and prediction, World Sci. Publ., Singapore, 491 pp.
• 24.Massel S.R., 2007, Ocean waves breaking and marine aerosol fluxes, Springer, New York, 323 pp.
• 25.Massel S.R., Brinkman R.M., 1998, On the determination of directional wave spectra for practical applications, Appl. Ocean Res., 20 (6), 357-374.
• 26.Mitsujasu H., Suhaya T., Mizuno S., Ohkuso M., Honda T., Rikiishi K., 1975, Observations of the directional spectrum of ocean waves using a cloverleaf buoy, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 5 (4), 750-760.
• 27.Pelevin V.N., Burtsev J.G., 1975, The measurements of the sea surface slope distribution under the wind roughness, [in:] Optical investigations in the ocean and in the atmosphere above the ocean, Inst. Okean. AN SSSR, 202-218, (in Russian).
• 28.Wang D.W., Hwang P.A., 2001, Evolution of the biomodal directional distribution of ocean waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 31 (5), 1200-1221.
• 29.Woźniak S.B., 1996, Sea surface slope distribution and foam coverage as functions of the mean height of wind waves, Oceanologia, 38 (3), 317-332.
• 30.Young I.R., Verhagen L.A., Banner M. L., 1995, A note on the bimodal directional spreading of fetch-limited wind waves, J. Geophys. Res., 100 (C1), 773-778.