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Abstrakty
The purpose of the presented paper is the identification and assessment of causes of intensive abrasion in the open coastline of the Hel Peninsula and the effect of countermeasures. Numerical modeling of nearshore hydrodynamics, topographic analysis and field measurements were carried out. The Baltic Sea hydrodynamic model, a model of wave-induced nearshore circulation and the wave model SWAN were employed. 3D hydrodynamic modeling resulted in the become visible that fields of shear bottom stresses as well as bottom currents depended on atmospheric forcing and depth. A correlation between bottom stresses and topography was obtained. The results of modeling of the nearshore hydrodynamics demonstrated a dominant role for alongshore sediment transport. The magnitude of both cross- and alongshore wave-induced currents strongly depended on wave height gradient, which was significantly greater in storm periods. During storms, sediment transport occurs also in the cross-shore direction.
Słowa kluczowe
Czasopismo
Rocznik
Tom
Strony
21--37
Opis fizyczny
bibliogr. 13 poz., tab., wykr.
Twórcy
autor
autor
autor
autor
- Institute of Oceanography, University of Gdańsk Al. Marszałka Piłsudskiego 46, 81-378 Gdynia, Poland, ocell@univ.gda.pl
Bibliografia
- Blumberg A.F., Mellor G.L., 1987, A description of the three-dimensional coastal ocean circulation model, pp. 1-16, [in:] Three-dimensional Coastal Ocean Models, Heaps N.S. (ed.), Am. Geophys. Union, Washington, pp. 1 - 208
- Booij N., Holthuijsen L.H., Ris R.C., 1996, The SWAN wave model for shallow water, Proceedings of the 25th Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE, Copenhagen, pp. 668-676
- Cieślikiewicz W., Herman A., 2001, Modelling of wind waves of the Baltic Sea and the Gulf of Gdansk, Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika, 4: 173-84, (in polish)
- Chlebus N., Grusza G., 2006, Numerical modeling of nearshore circulation based on data from CRS Lubiatowo, (manuscript in preparation)
- Furmańczyk K., 1994, Temporal development of coastal zone tideless sea in light of remote senssing research of the southern Baltic coast, Uniwersytet Szczeciński Rozprawy i Studia 171, (in polish)
- Furmańczyk K., Musielak S., 1997, Circulation systems and coastal classification, temporary results 96/97, Proceed. I An. BASYS Sc. Confer., Baltic Sea Research Institute Warnemunde
- Jędrasik J., 1997, A model of matter exchange and flow of energy in the Gulf of Gdańsk ecosystem - overview, Oceanol. Stud., 26(4): 3-20
- Jędrasik, J., 2005, Validation of the hydrodynamic part of the ecohydrodynamic model for the southern Baltic, Oceanologia, 47(4): 517-41
- Kowalewski M., 1997, A three-dimensional, hydrodynamic model of the Gulf of Gdańsk, Oceanol. Stud., 26(4): 77-98
- Łęczyński L., Rudowski S., Wicher W., 1999, Classification of the nearshore bottom at Redłowo by geophysical methods, Quaternary Studies in Poland, ISBN 83-87671-81-9. 5.
- Łęczyński L., 1999, Morpholithodynamics of the shore face on the cliff coast at Jastrzębia Góra (Southern Baltic), Peribalticum VII, Gdańskie Towarzystwo Naukowe, ISBN 83-87359-30-0
- Metlicka B., 2005, Analysis of the open sea coastline of the Hel Penisula on base of aerial photographs in 1947 - 91, Manuscript of MS of Art thesis, Dep. of Mar. Geol. Inst. Of Oceanogr. Gd. Univ., pp. 1-40, (in polish)
- Zawadzka-Kahlau E., 1999, Evolutionary tendencies polish coast of the southern Baltic, Gdańskie Towarzystwo Naukowe, ISBN 83-87359-32-7, (in polish)
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-article-BUS5-0008-0010