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Abstrakty
The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate statistical relationships between characteristic wave parameters in the coastal region and to assess wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. A simple model for calculating the residual nearshore wave energy is proposed and tested versus the data collected in situ.
Czasopismo
Rocznik
Tom
Strony
43--58
Opis fizyczny
bibliogr. 12 poz., tab., wykr.
Twórcy
autor
autor
autor
autor
autor
- Institute of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, (IBW PAN), Kościerska 7, PL-80-328 Gdańsk, Poland, zbig@ibwpan.gda.pl
Bibliografia
- Aarninkhof S.G. J., Ruessink B.G., 2001, Video observations of wave breaking and the implication for wave decay modelling, [in:] Coastal Dynamics '01: Proceedings of the fourth conference of coastal dynamics, June 11-15, Lund, Sweden, H. Hanson & M. Larson (eds.), ASCE, Reston, 979-988.
- Bernhoff H., Sjィoestedt E., Leijon M., 2006, Wave energy resources in sheltered sea areas: a case study of the Baltic Sea, Renew. Energ., 31 (13), 2164-2170.
- Dean R., 1976, Beach erosion: causes, processes and remedial measures, Crit. Rev. Env. Contr., 6 (3), 259-296.
- Kapiński J., Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Szmytkiewicz M., Szmytkiewicz P., Skaja M., 2007, Hydro- and morphodynamics of the coastal zone in view of field survey (Lubiatowo '06), Inż. Mor. Geotech., 28 (3), 149-158, (in Polish).
- Kraus N.C., 2001, On equilibrium properties in predictive modeling of coastal morphology change, [in:] Coastal Dynamics '01: Proceedings of the fourth conference of coastal dynamics, June 11-15, Lund, Sweden, H. Hanson & M. Larson (eds.), ASCE, Reston, 1-15.
- Massel S., 1996, Ocean surface waves: their physics and prediction, Adv. Ser. Ocean Eng., Vol. 11, World Sci., Singapore, 491 pp.
- Märtensson M., Bergdahl L., 1987, On wave climate on the southern Baltic, Dept. Hydraul., Chalmers Univ. Technol., Gィoteborg, Rep. Ser. A:15.
- Pruszak Z., 1993, The analysis of beach profile changes using Dean's method and empirical orthogonal functions, Coast. Eng., 19 (3-4), 245-261.
- Pruszak Z., Ostrowski R., Skaja M., Szmytkiewicz M., 2000, Wave climate and large-scale coastal processes in terms of boundary conditions, Coast. Eng., 42 (1), 31-56.
- Pruszak Z., Różyński G., Szmytkiewicz M., Skaja M., 1999, Quasi-seasonal morphological shore evolution response to variable wave climate, [in:] Coastal Sediments '99, N.C. Kraus & W.G. McDougal (eds.), ASCE, Reston, 1081-1093.
- Pruszak Z., Rżński G., Zeidler R. B., 1997, Statistical properties of multiple bars, Coast. Eng., 31 (1-4), 263-280.
- Senechal N., Bonneton P., Dupuis H., 2001, Field observations of irregular wave transformation in the surf zone, [in:] Coastal Dynamics '01: Proceedings of the fourth conference of coastal dynamics, June 11-15, Lund, Sweden, H. Hanson & M. Larson (eds.), ASCE, Reston, 62-71.
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-article-BUS5-0007-0028