Key phenomena in surf and swash zone: process-based modelling and data-driven analysis

• Autorzy: Kapiński J. , Ostrowski R. , Pruszak Z. , Różyński G.
• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

Selected results of investigations concerning a shallow water part of the coastal zone, covering the surf zone and the swash zone are presented. The above research bas been carried out by means of field measurements as well as data-driven and theoretical modelling. The investigations have led to development of a mathematical model of wave transformation and run-up on the shore in the Lagrangian system, as well as identification of infragravity waves (edge waves) in the multibar morphological beach system and their linkage with rhythmic shoreline forms (cusps). Same empirical relationships have been obtained for the description of number of bars in a bar system and dissipation of wave energy over such morphological structure. The experimental findings are based on field studies carrled out at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station (CRS) in Lubiatowo.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

nearshore zone; waves; sediment motion; coastal morphology and evolution

• Wydawca: Polska Akademia Nauk, Wydział IV Nauk Technicznych
• Czasopismo: Bulletin of the Polish Academy of Sciences. Technical Sciences
• Rocznik: 2006
• Tom: Vol. 54, nr 4
• Strony: 391--403
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 5 poz., rys.

Twórcy

autor

Kapiński J.

autor

Ostrowski R.

autor

Pruszak Z.

autor

Różyński G.

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, 7 Kościerska St., 80-328 Gdańsk, Poland,

Bibliografia

• [1] Z Pruszak, G. Różyński, M. Szmytkiewicz, and R. Ostrowski, “Infragravity waves and rhythmic shoreline forms at a non-tidal, barred coast”, Proc. 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,World Scientific Co. Pte. Ltd., 2568–2580 (2005).
• [2] J. Kapiński, “Two-dimensional modelling of wave motion in shallow-water areas”, Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics 51, 3–24 (2004).
• [3] G. Różyński, “Long-term shoreline response of a nontidal, barred coast”, Coastal Engineering 52, 79–91 (2005).
• [4] R.T. Guza, and D. Inman, “Edge waves and beach cusps”, Journal of Geophysical Research 80 (21), 2997–3012 (1975).
• [5] G. Coco, D. Huntley, and T.J. O’Hare, “Beach cusp formation: analysis of a self -organisation model”, Coastal Sediments ’99: The 4th International Symposium on Coastal Engineering and Science of Coastal Sediment Processes (Hauppauge, New York, ASCE), 2190–2205 (1999).