Identyfikatory
Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji
Abstrakty
The present model allows for simultaneous computations of depth-variable longshore currents and undertows, being the two most important components of coastal flows, at arbitrarily chosen locations of the nearshore zone, with the assumption of parallel isobaths. In the model, the flow velocities are calculated as functions of energy dissipation due to wave breaking. In the description of the wave-breaking, the effect of a roller has been taken into account. As a result of interaction of the cross-shore and longshore currents, a spiral-like resultant velocity vector appears, variable over water depth. The comparisons of calculated and measured vertical distributions of water flow velocity for conditions of the campaigns "Lubiatowo 87" and "Lubiatowo 96" have shown good conformity between experimental data and the present model.
Słowa kluczowe
Rocznik
Tom
Strony
57--81
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 47 poz., il.
Twórcy
autor
- Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences (IBW PAN), ul. Kościerska 7, 80-953 Gdańsk, Poland
Bibliografia
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- Bowen A. J. (1969), The generation of longshore currents on a piane beach, Journal of Marine Research, 27, 206-215.
- Cox D., Kobayashi N., Okayasu A. (1994), Vertical variations of fluid velocities and shear stress in surf zone, Proc. 24th Coastal Eng. Conf., ASCE. 98-112.
- Cox D., Kobayashi N. (1996), Undertow profiles in the bottom boundary layer under breaking waves, Proc. 25th Coastal Eng. Conf., ASCE, 3194-3206.
- Craik A. D. D. (1982), The drift velocity of water waves, J. Fluid Mech., Vol. 116, 187-205.
- Daily W. R. (1980), A numerical model for prońle evolution, A thesis submitted to the faculty of the University of Deleware in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Civil Engineering.
- Deigaard R., Fredsoe J. (1989), Shear stress distribution in dissipative water waves, Coastal Engineering 13, 357-378.
- Deigaard R., Justesen P., Fredsoe J. (1991), Modelling of undertow by a one- equation turbulence model, Coastal Engineering, 15, 431-458.
- Deigaard R. (1993), A notę on the three-dimensional shear stress distribution in a surf zone, Coastal Engineering, 20, 157-171.
- Kaczmarek L. M., Szmytkiewicz M. (1993), Mechanizmy generacji prądów powrotnych w strefie przybrzeżnej morza, Rozprawy Hydrotechniczne, R. 56, 67-88.
- Kraus N. C., Sasaki T. O. (1979), Effects of wave angle and lateral mixing on the longshore currents, Coastal Engineering in Japan, Vol. 22, 59-73.
- Kuriyama Y. (1994), Numerical model for longshore current distribution on a bar-trough beach, Proc. 24th Coastal Engineering Int. Conference, ASCE, Kobe, Japan, 2237-2251.
- Kuroiwa M., Hideaki N., Yuhei M. (1998), Applicability of a quasi-three dimensional Kuroiwa numerical model to nearshore currents, Proc 26th Coastal Engineering Conference ICCE, 815-842.
- Lee J., Wang H. (1994), A quasi-3D surf zone model. Proc 24th Coastal Engineering Conference ICCE, 2267-2281.
- Longuet-Higgins M. S. (1953), Mass transport in gravity waves, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. London, Ser A, 245.
- Longuet-Higgins M. S. (1960), Mass transport in the boundary layer at a free oscillating surface, J. Fluid Mechanics, 8, 293-306.
- Longuet-Higgins M. S., Stewart E. W. (1964), Radiation Stress In Water Waves, A Physical Discussion With Applications, Deep Sea Res., Vol 11, 529-562.
- Longuet-Higgins M. I. (1970), Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident sea waves, J.Geophys. Res., Vol. 75, No. 33.
- Madsen P. A., Svendsen I. A. (1983), Turbulent bores and hydraulic jumps, J. Fluid Mech., 129, 1-25.
- Mckee Smith J., Svendsen I., Putrevu U. (1992), Vertical structure of the nearshore current at Delilah: measured and modelled, Proc. 23rd Coastal Eng. Conf., ASCE, 2825-2837.
- Okayasu A., Shibayama T., Horikawa K. (1988), Vertical variation of undertow in the surf zone, Proc. 21st Coastal Eng. Conf., ASCE, 478-491.
- Rattanapitikon W., Shibayama T. (2000), Simple model for undertow profile, Coastal Engineering Journal, Vol. 42, No. 1, 1-30.
- Rivero F. J.. Arcilla A. S. (1995), On the vertical distribution of < uw >, Coastal Engineering, 25, 137-152.
- Stive M. J. F. (1980), Velocity and pressure field of spilling breakers, Proc. I7h Coastal Eng. Conf. ASCE, 547-566.
- Stive M. J. F., Wind H. G. (1982), A study of radiation stress and set-up in the nearshore region, Coastal Engineeńng, 6, 1-25.
- Stive M. J. F., Wind H. G. (1986). Cross-shore mean flow in the surf zone. Coastal Engineeńng, 10, 325-340.
- Stive M. J. F., De Vriend H. (1994), Shear stresses and mean flow in shoaling and breaking waves, Proc. 24h Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., 594-605.
- Svendsen F A. (1984), Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone, Coastal Engineering, 8, 347-365.
- Svendsen I. A., Buhr-Flansen J. (1986), The interaction of waves and currents over longshore bar. Proc. 20h Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., Taipei.
- Svendsen I. A., Buhr-Hansen J. (1987), Cross-shore currents in surf zone modelling. Coastal Engineering, 12, 23-42.
- Svendsen I. A., Buhr-Flansen J. (1988). Cross-Shore Currents in Surf-Zone Modelling, Coastal Engineering, 12, 23-42.
- Svendsen I. A., Lorenz R. S. (1989), Three dimensional velocity profiles in combined undertow and longshore currents, Coastal Engineering, 13, 1, 55-80.
- Svendsen I. A., Putrevu U. (1990), Nearshore circulation with 3D profiles, Proc. 22nd Coastal Engineering Conference ICCE, Chap. 18, 242-254.
- Szmytkiewicz M.. Skaja M. (1993), Model prądów wzdłuż brzegowych dla rewowego profilu dna oraz wielokrotnego załamania fali, Rozprawy Hydrotechniczne, Gdańsk.
- Szmytkiewicz M. (1994), Modele prądów pochodzenia falowego w strefie brzegowej morza. Raport Instytutu Budownictwa Wodnego w Gdańsku.
- Szmytkiewicz M. (1997), Pomiary falowania i prądów w wielorewowej strefie brzegowej w ramach ekspedycji „Lubiatowo 96”, Praca wewnętrzna IBW PAN, Gdańsk.
- Szmytkiewicz M. (2002), Prądy pochodzenia falowego w morskiej strefie brzegowej, Wydawnictwo IBW PAN, Gdańsk, p. 178.
- Thornton E. (1970), Variation of longshore current across the surf zone, Proceedings of the I2h Conference on Coastal Engineering, Vol. I.
- Thornton E., Guza R. T. (1983), Transformation of wave height distribution, . J. Geophys. Res., Vol. 88, CIO.
- Thornton E. B., Guza R. T. (1986), Transformation surf zone longshore currents and random waves, Field Data and Models, J. Phys. Oceanogr., Vol. 16, N( 7, 1165-1178.
- Van Dongeren A. R., Sancho F. E., Svendsen I. A., Putrevu U. (1994), SHORE CIRC: A quasi 3-D nearshore model, Proc 24th Coastal Engineering Conference ICCE. 2740-2754.
- Van Rijn L. C. (1993). Principles of sediment transport in rivers, estuaries and Coastal seas. Aqua Publications, the Netherlands.
- Visser P. J. (1984). Uniform Longshore Current Measurements and Calculations Proc. Coastal Engineering Conference ASCE, 2192-2207.
- De Vriend H. J., Stive M. J. F. (1987), Quasi-3D modelling of nearshore current Coastal Engineering, 11, 565-601.
- De Vriend FI. J., Kitou N. (1990). Incorporation of wave effects in a 3D hydrostatic mean current model. Proc. 22nd Coastal Engineering Conferenc ASCE. 1005-1018.
- Yamashita T., Tschiya Y., Suriamihardja D. A. (1990), Vertically 2-D nearshore circulation model. Proc. 22nd Coastal Eng. Conf., ASCE. 150-163.
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-article-BAT3-0020-0040
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