Two-dimensional modelling of wave motion in shallow-water areas

• Autorzy: Kapiński J.
• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

A new mathematical model for prediction of a two-dimensional wave motion in shallow water is presented herein. It can be applied to investigate shoaling, diffraction, refraction, breaking, bottom friction and wave run-up on a beach, as well as mass transport and orbital motion. The model also includes an oblique wave approach to the shore and irregular bottom topography. Such engineering constructions as seawalls, breakwaters and groins are simulated numerically. Simple results of computations, shown in graphic form, indicate possible practical applications of the model.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

swash zone; shallow water; wave transformation; Lagrangian approach; two-dimensional model

• Wydawca: Institute of Hydro-Engineering of Polish Academy of Sciences
• Czasopismo: Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
• Rocznik: 2004
• Tom: Vol. 51, nr 1
• Strony: 3--24
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 4 poz., il.

Twórcy

autor

Kapiński J.

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences ul. Kościerska 7, 80-953 Gdańsk, Poland,

Bibliografia

• Kapinski J. (2003), Lagrangian-Eulerian Approach to Modelling of Wave Transformation and Flow Velocity in the Swash Zone and its Seaward Vicinity, Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics, Vol. 50, 165–192.
• Kapinski J., Kołodko J. (1996), Wave run-up on Gentle Slopes: a Hybrid Approach, Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics, Vol. 43, 79–89.
• Potter D. (1973), Computational Physics, John Willey & Sons, London, New York, Sydney, Toronto.
• Voltzinger N. E., Klevanny K. A., Pelinovsky E. N. (1989), Long-Wave Dynamics of the Coastal Zone, Gidrometeoizdat Publishers, Leningrad (in Russian).