Fabric Composition and Wearability Analysis of Zhuanghua

• Autorzy: Sun Ying , Liu Zheng , Silberman Jeffrey , Hou Jue , Dai Jian

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.2478/ftee-2022-0033

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

Zhuanghua is a representative variety of Nanjing Yun brocade, symbolising the highest achievement of ancient Chinese textile technology. It has been widely used as a clothing fabric since its appearance. This paper firstly explored the characteristics of weaving materials, fabric weaves, and fabric weaving of Zhuanghua based on a literature review, manufactory visiting, and a market survey. To preserve the textile application, the permeability, shape preservation property, and appearance preservation property of fabric were tested for wearability. Specifically, six pieces of Zhuanghua satin were selected as the primary samples, along with six pieces of customised plain satin as the matching samples. Influenced by the Zhuangzhi technique, the Zhuanghua satin presented the following features. The thickness and air permeability of the Zhuanghua satin varied between patterned and non-patterned parts. The Zhuanghua satin in the weft direction showed higher tensile strength, stronger stiffness, and weak crease recovery ability. The average weft elongation at break of Zhuanghua satin increased by 25% and the weft flexural rigidity by 3-8 times, while the average weft crease recovery angle decreased by nearly 30°. The performance of anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling was improved, and the grades increased by 1 and 2, respectively. The study is conducive to a more scientific understanding and development of Yun brocade.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

Zhuanghua; Zhuanghua satin; Zhuangzhi technique; wearability; Yun brocade

• Wydawca: Sieć Badawcza Łukasiewicz - Łódzki Instytut Technologiczny
• Czasopismo: Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe
• Rocznik: 2022
• Tom: Vol. 30, no. 4
• Strony: 9--20
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 39 poz., rys., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Sun Ying

• School of Fashion, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, P.R. China

autor

Liu Zheng

• School of Fashion, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, P.R. China
• Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Clothing Engineering Technology, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, P.R. China
• Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Inheriting and Products Design Digital Technology, Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, P.R. China

• https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3698-3646

autor

Silberman Jeffrey

• Jay and Patty Baker School of Business and Technology, Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), New York, Manhattan 10001, United States

autor

Hou Jue

• School of Fashion, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, P.R. China
• Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Clothing Engineering Technology, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, P.R. China

autor

Dai Jian

• Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing Jiangsu 210049, P.R. China

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