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Morphology and thermal behaviour of textile fibres from the hair of domestic and wild goat species

Identyfikatory
Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
The performances and properties of the fine hairs from the coats of several domestic and wild mammals, namely the "speciality animal fibres" used for manufacturing high quality, luxury textiles, are influenced by the domestication process, heritability, hybridisation, nutrition, and life environment. In this work, the fibre morphology and cell structures of fibres from wild, domestic and crossbred goats were studied, with the aim of investigating the relationships with the thermal behaviour of the crystalline fraction of the fibres. Scanning Electron Microscopy investigation confirmed that exposure to thermal excursions and nutritional stresses lead to finer hair, associated with lower rate of growth, yielding strong orientation and elongation of the cuticle cells in the direction of the fibre axis. Transmitted Light Microscopy and Differential Scanning Calorimetry revealed specie-specific differences in the internal structure of the fibre cortex, probably related also to moisture during the process of hair keratinisation.
Rocznik
Strony
68--71
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 20 poz.
Twórcy
autor
  • CNR-ISMAC, Institute for Macromolecular Studies, Biella, Italy tel. +39 0158493043 fax +39 0158408387
  • c.vineis@bi.ismac.cnr.it
autor
  • CNR-ISMAC, Institute for Macromolecular Studies, Biella, Italy tel. +39 0158493043 fax +39 0158408387
autor
  • CNR-ISMAC, Institute for Macromolecular Studies, Biella, Italy tel. +39 0158493043 fax +39 0158408387
Bibliografia
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  • 2. CCMI Definition of cashmere. The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, Boston, www.cashmere.org
  • 3. Feughelman M (1997) Mechanical properties and structure of alpha-keratin fibres, Univ of New South Wales Press, Sydney
  • 4. Franck R (2001) Silk, mohair, cashmere and other luxury fibres. The Textile Institute, Manchester
  • 5. Herrling J, Sparrow LG (1991) Interactions of intermediate filament proteins from wool. Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 13: 115-119
  • 6. Huson MG, Church JS, Heintze GN, Pate M (2000) Spectroscopy, microscopy and thermal analysis of the bi-modal melting of merino wool, 10 th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf. Aachen (D) Nov. 26 – Dec. 1, Proc. 25-26
  • 7. Knott J (1990) Fine Animal Fibres. EEC Comett, Univ. of Minho (P)
  • 8. Maclaren JA, Milligan B (1981) The chemical reactivity of the wool fibre. Wool Science, Science Press, Merrickville
  • 9. Mahall K (1993) Quality assessment of textiles. Springer-Verlag, Berlin, Heidelberg
  • 10. Phan KH (1991) Electron Microscopy and the Characterization of Keratin Fibres. EEC Comett, Univ. of Minho (P)
  • 11. Robson D, Weedall PJ, Harwood RJ (1989) Cuticular scale measurement using image analysis technique.Text. Res. J. 59: 713-717
  • 12. Rougeot J, Lyne AG, Short BF (1965) Biology of the Skin and Hair Growth. Angus & Robertson, Sydney
  • 13. Saunders DA (1990) The landscape approach to conservation: community involvement, the only practical solution . Aust. Zool. 26: 49-53
  • 14. Tonin C, Aluigi A, Bianchetto Songia M, D’Arrigo C, Mormino M, Vineis C (2004) Thermoanalytical characterisation of modified keratin fibres. J. Therm. Anal. Cal. 77/3: 987-996
  • 15. Tonin C, Bianchetto Songia M, Vineis C, Festa Bianchet M (2002) Differentiating fine hairs from wild and domestic species: investigations on shatoosh, yangir and cashmere fibres. Text. Res. J. 72: 701-705
  • 16. Von Berger W (1963) Wool handbook. Interscience, New York, London, Sydney
  • 17. Wildman AB (1954) The microscopy of animal textile fibres. WIRA, Leeds
  • 18. Woods J L, Orwin, D F G (1982) The cytology of cuticle scale pattern formation in the wool follicle. J. Ultrastructure Res. 80: 230-242
  • 19. Wortmann FJ, Arns W (1986) Quantitative fiber mixture analysis by scanning electron microscopy. Text. Res. J. 56: 442-446
  • 20. Wortmann FJ, Deutz H (1998) Thermal analysis of ortho-and para-cortical cells isolated from wool fibres. J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 68: 1991-1995
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-985a4530-8abd-47f2-b643-1e9b4ddb0272
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