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Design and Cultural Aspects of 20th Century Chinese Xiangjin Brocade

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Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
As one of the representative silk-woven artworks of the 20th century in China, Chinese Xiangjin brocade, well-known as "the flower of Oriental art", draws on the essence of Sichuan brocade, Yun brocade, Song brocade, so as to form its own unique artistic style. It also takes the lead in the innovation of traditional brocade in key processes such as craftsmanship, design and jacquard, whose drawing technique is the exact core skill making it intangible cultural heritage. So far, there have been few studies on crafts and textile design in China before the 20th century or even after the reform and opening up, and rather fewer studies on the structure of Xiangjin brocade in the 20th century. This paper attempts to record and classify 1008 pieces of Xiangjin brocade in the Suzhou Silk Archive, China, as well as to find out their design features, oriental flavour, and unique weaving techniques. In addition, the cultural connotation of Xiangjin brocade as the painting medium was also put forward by analysing those brocades’ historical texts, images, and style.
Rocznik
Strony
116--129
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 34 poz., rys., tab.
Twórcy
autor
  • School of Design, Jiangsu Intangible Cultural Heritage Base, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, P.R. China
autor
  • School of Design, Jiangsu Intangible Cultural Heritage Base, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, P.R. China
autor
  • School of Design, Jiangsu Intangible Cultural Heritage Base, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, P.R. China
Bibliografia
  • 1. Yuan, X. P. Inheritance and innovation of modern Chinese brocade art. Silk, 2007 (8): 72-75.
  • 2. Yuan Xuanping, Xu Zheng . Hangzhou Picture. Suzhou University Press, 2009.
  • 3. He Yunfei. On the characteristics of du Jinsheng’s tapestry art. Silk, 1999 (8): 2.
  • 4. Liu Kelong. The Flower of Oriental Artan Analysis of the Brocade Art of du Jinsheng. Hangzhou normal University.
  • 5. Peng Zeyi (Ed.). Materials on the history of handicrafts in modern China 1840-1949. Zhonghua Book Company, 1962.
  • 6. Zhou Feng. Hangzhou during the Republic of China. Zhejiang people’s Publishing House, 1992.
  • 7. Hangzhou Local Chronicles compilation Committee. Hangzhou Annals. Zhonghua Book Company, 1995.
  • 8. Nobu Ono, Silk Industry in Hangzhou (continued). Research Materials on Silk History, 1952 (4): 1-33.
  • 9. Wang,X. Economic investigation of handicraft industry in modern China. Beijing: Economic Press China,2002,14-18.
  • 10. Zhou J , Frankie N G . Technical and artistic characteristics of Chinese ancien brocade. Journal of Textile Research, 2008, 29(3):47-50.
  • 11. Jung K.M, Paoletti J.B. Documentation and analysis of dated Victorian crazy quilts. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 1987, 5(3): 18-24.
  • 12. Jo, B, Paoletti. Content Analysis: Its Application to the Study of the History of Costume. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 1982, 1(1):14-17.
  • 13. Blanchard R.T, Feather B.L, Wilson L. Design characteristics and inspiration sources of depression era quilts. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 1991, 9(2): 56-64.
  • 14. Chen K, Lu D, Jin Z, et al. Song Brocade in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2020, 38(4): 285-297.
  • 15. Arthur L. Cultural authentication of hawaiian quilting in the early 19th century. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2011, 29(2): 103-118.
  • 16. Yun N. Research on Manufacturing Technology and Cultural Connotation of Guangxi Rongshui Miao Brocade Strap. Journal of Sociology and Ethnology, 2021, 3(1): 18-22.
  • 17. Margaret M.E.G., Ordoñez T. Indigo-Resist Prints from Eighteenth-Century America: Technology and Technique. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2004, 22(1-2): 4-14.
  • 18. Fiore A. M , Mullet K . Technique, Technology, and Tradition Related To Design and Aesthetics of Textiles and Apparel. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 2004, 22(1-2):1-3.
  • 19. Hangzhou Silk Holdings Inc. Hangzhou Silk Annals Hangzhou:Zhejiang Science and Technology Press,1999.
  • 20. Yanagi Souetsu. Handicraft Culture. Guangxi: Guangxi Normal University Press, 2006.
  • 21. Li, E. Miscellany of the East Hangzhou City. Beijing: Zhonghua Book Company,1985.
  • 22. Li, G.Y. The Silk King Du Jinsheng. Tianjin:Tianjin People’s Publishing House, 2011.
  • 23. Liu, K.L. The Flower of Oriental Art—The Art of Du Jinsheng Brocade. Hangzhou Normal University, 2011.
  • 24. Li, C.J. Du Jinsheng Brocade. Shanghai: Donghua University Press, 2009.
  • 25. West Lake Expo Daily. Aug, 18th,1929.
  • 26. Shi Boheng. Business monthly, 1931.
  • 27. Zhou, H. Y. The Inheritance and Development of Nanjing Yun Brocade. Southeast University, 2006.
  • 28. Yuan, X.P. The West Lake Brocade. Hangzhou: Hangzhou Publishing House,2005.
  • 29. Chu, X.Q. The influence of technical development on artistic ideas and aesthetic orientation. Hundred Schools in Arts, 2016,1:131-132.
  • 30. Wang, Y.H. Jia jacquard and heald crossing and hoisting method. Beijing:The Commercial Press,1950.
  • 31. Zhao, F. History of Chinese Silk Art. Beijing: Cultural relics publishing house, 2005.
  • 32. Tan J, Shao L, Lam N.Y.K, et al. Intelligent textiles: designing a gesture-controlled illuminated textile based on computer vision. Textile Research Journal, 2021: 00405175211034245.
  • 33. Hongxia Z, Zhijia L.Y.U. Textiles Design Idea Based on Transboundary Reference. Cotton Textile Technology, 2021, 49(597).
  • 34. Rivera F.G, Brolin E, Syberfeldt A, et al. Using Virtual Reality and smart textiles to assess the design of workstations SPS2020: Proceedings of the Swedish Production Symposium, October 7-8, 2020. IOS Press, 2020, 13: 145.
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-95628d79-a7b7-4ba6-bd0b-ed0ba3b33b47
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