Driving forces of sandy sediment transport beyond the surf zone

• Autorzy: Stella Magdalena , Ostrowski Rafał , Szmytkiewicz Piotr , Kapiński Jarosław , Marcinkowski Tomasz

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.1016/j.oceano.2018.06.003

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

The paper deals with experimental and theoretical investigations of forces that driver sediment motion beyond the surf zone of the southern Baltic Sea. The study site is located in the sandy coastal zone at Lubiatowo (Poland). Field surveys were carried out by the Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences (IBW PAN) and the Maritime Institute in Gdańsk (IMG). The measurements comprise parameters of wind, waves and currents. The wind velocities and directions were recorded at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station (CRS) in Lubiatowo, while the wave and current data were collected near CRS Lubiatowo, ca. 1.5 Nm from the shoreline, at a depth of 17 m. Theoretical investigations concern wind-induced currents, nearbed wave-induced oscillatory velocities and wave-current interactions. The koncept of the apparent roughness related to the wave bed boundary layer is used in the description of wind-induced steady flow. A theoretical model of the wind-induced current is proposed in two variants, depending on the predominance of wave or current impact. The wind-induced flow model is successfully verified using measured current velocity profiles. Previously developed AT IBW PAN, a three-layer sediment transport model is adapted to the study site and applied in calculations of sediment transport rates.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

wind-induced current; wave-current interactions; apparent roughness; sediment transport rates

• Wydawca: Polish Academy of Sciences, Institute of Oceanology ; Elsevier
• Czasopismo: Oceanologia
• Rocznik: 2019
• Tom: No. 61 (1)
• Strony: 50--59
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 16 poz., fot., rys., tab., wykr.

Twórcy

autor

Stella Magdalena

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences (IBW PAN), Gdańsk, Poland

autor

Ostrowski Rafał

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences (IBW PAN), Gdańsk, Poland

autor

Szmytkiewicz Piotr

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences (IBW PAN), Gdańsk, Poland

autor

Kapiński Jarosław

• Maritime Institute in Gdańsk, Gdańsk, Poland

autor

Marcinkowski Tomasz

• Maritime Institute in Gdańsk, Gdańsk, Poland

Bibliografia

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Uwagi

Opracowanie rekordu w ramach umowy 509/P-DUN/2018 ze środków MNiSW przeznaczonych na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (2019).