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Calculation of Wave Run-up Height in South Baltic Sea: Case Study at Coastal Research Station at Lubiatowo, Poland

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Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
The paper presents recent investigations of beach run-up phenomena at the Coastal Research Station of the Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences at Lubiatowo, Poland. The local beach is typical of open-sea coasts of the south Baltic Sea, featuring multiple longshore bars that form predominantly dissipative systems. Measurements were taken to verify the existing formulas for the run-up height, bearing in mind that they had been derived for entirely different, oceanic conditions. The results indicate that these formulations can be adapted to south Baltic Sea conditions. This however, will require significantly larger data sets, which we intend to obtain in the near future.
Słowa kluczowe
Rocznik
Strony
203--291
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 27 poz., rys., tab.
Twórcy
autor
  • Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, 7 Kościerska, 80-328 Gdańsk, Poland
  • Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, 7 Kościerska, 80-328 Gdańsk, Poland
  • Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, 7 Kościerska, 80-328 Gdańsk, Poland
Bibliografia
  • Aagard T., Holm D. (1989) Digitization of Wave Runup Using Video Records, J. Coastal Res., 5, 547–551.
  • Ahrens J. P. (1981) IrregularWave Run-up on Smooth Slopes, Tech. Aid No 81-17, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Waterways Experiment Station, Vickburg, Mississippi, USA.
  • Baldock T. E., Holmes P. (1999) Simulation and Prediction of Swash Oscillations on a Steep Beach, Coastal Engineering, 36 (3), 219–242, DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00011-3.
  • Battjes J. A. (1974a) Computation of Set-up, Longshore Currents, Run-up and Overtopping Due to Wind-Generated Waves, PhD Thesis, TU Delft, 1–244.
  • Battjes J. A. (1974b) Surf Similarity, 14th Intl. Conf. Coastal Engr., 466–480.
  • Carrier G. F., Greenspan H. P. (1958) Water Waves of Finite Amplitude on a Sloping Beach, J. Fluid Mechanics, 4 (1), 97–109, DOI: 10.1017/S0022112058000331.
  • Guza R. T., Bowen A. J. (1975) Edge Waves and Beach Cusps, J. Geophys. Res., 80 (21), 2997–3012, DOI: https://doi.org/10.1029/JC080i021p02997.
  • Guza R. T., Bowen A. J. (1976) Finite Amplitude Edge Waves, J. Mar. Res., 34, 269–293.
  • Guza R. T., Inman D. L. (1975) Edge Waves and Beach Cups, Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres, 80 (21), 2997–3012, DOI: https://doi.org/10.1029/JC080i021p02997.
  • Guza R. T., Thornton E. B. (1982), Swash oscillations on a natural beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 87 (C1), 483–491.
  • Holland K. T., Holman R. A. (1993) The Statistical Distribution of Swash Maxima on Natural Beaches, J. Geophys. Res., 87 (10), 271–278.
  • Holland K. T., Raubenheimer B., Guza R. T., Holman R. A. (1995) Runup Kinematics on a Natural Beach, J. Geophys. Res., 100 (C3), 4985–4993, DOI: https://doi.org/10.1029/94JC02664.
  • Holland K. T., Holman R. A. (1996) Field Observations of Beach Cusps and Swash Motions, Marine Geology, 134, 77–93.
  • Holland K. T., and Holman R. A. (1999) Wavenumber-frequency Structure of Infragravity Swash Motions, J. Geophys. Res., 104 (13), 479–488.
  • Holman R. A., Bowen A. J. (1984) Longshore Structure of Infragravity Wave Motions, J. Geophys. Res., 89 (C4), 6446–6452, DOI: https://doi.org/10.1029/JC089iC04p06446.
  • Holman R. A., Guza R. T. (1984) Measuring run-up on a natural beach, Coastal Engineering, 8, 129–140.
  • Holman R. A. (1986), Extreme Value Statistics forWave Run-up on a Natural Beach, Coastal Engineering, 9 (6), 527–544, DOI: 10.1016/0378-3839(86)90002-5.
  • Hunt I. A. (1959) Design of Seawalls and Breakwaters, J. Waterways and Harbors Div., ASCE, 85, No. WW3.
  • Huntley D. A., Guza R. T., Bowen A. J. (1977) Universal Form for Shoreline Run-up Spectra, Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 82, 2577–2581.
  • Komar P. D. (1998) Beach Processes and Sedimentation, Prentice Hall, 1998, 544 pp, ISBN 0137549385, 9780137549382.
  • Mase H. (1989) Random Wave Runup Height on Gentle Slope, J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, 115 (5), 649–661.
  • Ostrowski R., Sch¨onhofer J., Szmytkiewicz P. (2016) South Baltic Representative Coastal Field Surveys, Including Monitoring at the Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo, Poland, Journal of Marine Systems, 162, 89–97.
  • Ruggiero P., Holman R. A., Beach R. A. (2004) Wave Run-Up on a High-Energy Dissipative Beach, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C06025, doi: 10.1029/2003JC002160.
  • Ruggiero P., Komar P. D., Marra J. J., McDougalW. G., Beach R. A. (2001)Wave runup, extreme water levels and the erosion of properties backing beaches, J. Coastal Res., 17, 407–419.
  • Stockdon H. F., Holman R. A., Howd P. A., Sallenger Jr A. H. (2006) Empirical Parameterization of Setup, Swash, and Runup, Coastal Engineering, 53 (7), 573–588, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.12.005.
  • Szmytkiewicz P., Różyński G. (2016) InfragravityWaves at a Dissipative Shore with Multiple Bars: Recent Evidence, J.Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000344,04016007.
  • Van Dorn W. G. (1976) Set-up and Run-up in Shoaling Breakers, Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 15, 738–751, DOI: https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v15.%25p.
Uwagi
Opracowanie rekordu w ramach umowy 509/P-DUN/2018 ze środków MNiSW przeznaczonych na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (2019).
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-866f5ff0-ad3f-4903-8ad8-2c40333b91c6
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