Wave transformation in a multi-bar surf zone: case study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

• Autorzy: Lan Y. J. , Hsu T. W. , Ostrowski R. , Szmytkiewicz M.

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.1515/heem-2016-0002

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of wave transformation in the surf zone near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly induced by breaking. The main field data comprise wave heights and cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Wave transformation is modelled theoretically by two approaches, namely the IBW PAN phase-averaged wave transformation model and the approach based on the hydraulic jump model, developed by Hsu & Lai (2009) for hydrological situations encountered under the actual conditions of two field campaigns – in 1987 and 1996. Discrepancies between the measured data and the model results are discussed. In general, the model results are in good agreement with the in-situ observations. The comparison of the field data with the computational results concerns a part of the surf zone between about 5 m water depth and the first nearshore stable bar, where the depth amounts to ca. 1.2 m.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

wave transformation; wave energy dissipation; wave breaking; multi-bar cross-shore profile; phase-averaged model; hydraulic jump model

• Wydawca: Institute of Hydro-Engineering of Polish Academy of Sciences
• Czasopismo: Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
• Rocznik: 2016
• Tom: Vol. 63, nr 1
• Strony: 19--34
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 16 poz., rys., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Lan Y. J.

• Research Center for Ocean Energy and Strategies, National Taiwan Ocean University, 2 Pei-Ning Road, Keelung, 20224, Taiwan

autor

Hsu T. W.

• Research Center for Ocean Energy and Strategies, National Taiwan Ocean University, 2 Pei-Ning Road, Keelung, 20224, Taiwan
• Department of Harbor and River Engineering, National Taiwan Ocean University, 2 Pei-Ning Road, Keelung, 20224, Taiwan

autor

Ostrowski R.

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Kościerska 7, 80-328 Gdańsk, Poland

autor

Szmytkiewicz M.

• Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Kościerska 7, 80-328 Gdańsk, Poland

Bibliografia

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• Horikawa K., Kuo C. T. (1966) A study on wave transformation inside the surf zone, Proceedings of 10th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Tokyo, 217–233.
• Hsu T. W., Lai K. S. (2009) Wave height variation across surf zone on bar type profile, Proceedings of the ASME 2009 28th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering (OMAE2009), Honolulu, Hawaii, USA, OMAE2009-80233, 1–5.
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• Ostrowski R., Szmytkiewicz M. (2004) Cross-shore hydrodynamics in terms of a quasi phase-resolving model, Proc. XXIV International School of Hydraulics: Hydraulic Problems in Environmental Engineering, IBW PAN, Gdansk, 137–144.
• Pruszak Z., Szmytkiewicz P., Ostrowski R., Skaja M., Szmytkiewicz M. (2008) Shallow-water wave energy dissipation in a multi-bar coastal zone, Oceanologia, 50 (1), 43–58.
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Uwagi

Opracowanie ze środków MNiSW w ramach umowy 812/P-DUN/2016 na działalność upowszechniającą naukę.