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Tytuł artykułu

Handle Evaluation of Men’s Suitings Produced in Turkey

Autorzy
Identyfikatory
Warianty tytułu
PL
Ocena chwytu ubrań męskich produkowanych w Turcji
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
This article explains subjective evaluation techniques for stiffness, thickness and smoothness, which are the components of handle of suitings, and subjective assessments using these techniques. Another objective of this research was to study the fabric handle of worsted suitings produced in Turkey. For this purpose a preliminary study was made to determine the words to define fabric attributes used in Turkey. Thickness, stiffness and smoothness were chosen as the components of the fabric handle of worsted men’s suitings. Subjective assessment techniques were developed to assess the chosen attributes. These techniques were applied to 73 fabric samples with the help of an expert jury. The concordances of the subjective test results were investigated by the Kendall concordance test and correlation analyses were carried out to examine the relations between the subjective test results. The assessment of the fabrics by the jury using the techniques was in good agreement. A total handle of 100% wool and wool/polyester blend worsted men’s suitings produced in Turkey has a grade of 3.47 on a five-point rating scale. A database was prepared for the handle of worsted men’s suitings produced in Turkey.
PL
Opisano subiektywne techniki oceny sztywności, grubości i gładkości tkanin, będące podstawą oceny chwytu tkanin ubraniowych. Analizowano chwyt tkanin ubraniowych przetwarzanych w Turcji. Przeprowadzono badania wstępne dla określenia słownictwa stosowanego dla zdefiniowania tkaniny. Przyjęto sztywność, grubość i gładkość jako określenia determinujące chwyt tkanin zgrzeblonych stosowanych do szycia męskich ubrań. Opracowano subiektywne metody oceny. 72 próbki tkanin zbadano jury ekspertów. Dla określenia zależności między poszczególnymi ocenami jury, zgodność wyników zbadano testem Kendalla. Stwierdzono dobrą zgodność. Oceniono, że dla męskich tkanin ubraniowych produkowanych w Turcji ze zgrzeblonej czystej wełny oraz przędz mieszankowych wełna - poliester uogólniony chwyt wynosi na 3.47 w skali pięciopunktowej. Przygotowano bazę danych dla tkanin tego typu produkowanych w Turcji.
Rocznik
Strony
61--68
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 23 poz., rys., tab.
Twórcy
autor
  • Dokuz Eylül University Faculty of Engineering Textile Engineering Department Bornova/IZMIR, TURKEY
autor
  • Dokuz Eylül University Faculty of Engineering Textile Engineering Department Bornova/IZMIR, TURKEY
Bibliografia
  • 1. Bishop, D.P. (1996), Fabric Sensory and Mechanical Properties, Textile Progress, Vol. 26, No. 3.
  • 2. Brand, R.H. (1964), Measurement of Fabric Aesthetics Analysis of Aesthetic Components, Textile Research Journal, pp.791-804.
  • 3. Kawabata, S. (1980), The Standardization and Analysis of Hand Evaluation, 2nd Ed., The Textile Machinery of Japan, Osaka.
  • 4. Kawabata, S. (1982), The Development of the Objective Measurement of Fabric Handle, Proceedings of First Japan-Australia Symposium on Objective Spesification of Fabric Quality, Mechanical Properties and Performance, Kyoto, pp. 31-59.
  • 5. Kawabata, S., Niwa, M. (1998), Clothing Engineering Based on Objective Measurement Technology, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol.10, No.3/4, pp. 263-272.
  • 6. Ellis. B. C., Garnsworthy, R. K. (1980), A Review of Techniques for the Asssessment of Hand, Textile Research Journal, pp. 231-238.
  • 7. Winakor, G., Kim, C. J., Wolins, L. (1980), Fabric Hand: Tactile Sensory Assessment, Textile Research Journal, pp. 601-610.
  • 8. Mahar, T. J., Dhingra ve Postle R. (1982). Comparison of fabric handle assessments in Japan, Australia, New Zeland and India. Proceedings of First Japan-Australia Symposium on Objective Spesification of Fabric Quality, Mechanical Properties and Performance, Kyoto, pp. 149-159.
  • 9. Elder, H. M., Fisher, S., Armstrong, K., Hutchison, G. (1984), Fabric Softness, Handle and Compression, Journal of the Textile Institute, No.1, pp. 37-47.
  • 10. Elder, H. M., Fisher, S., Armstrong, K., Hutchison, G. (1984), Fabric Stifftness, Handle and Flexion, Journal of the Textile Institute, No. 2, pp. 96-106.
  • 11. Mahar, T. J., Postle, R., Measuring and Interpreting Low-Stress Mechanical and Surface Properties Part IV: Subjective Evaluation of Fabric Handle, 1989, Textile Research Journal, pp. 721- 733.
  • 12. Mahar, T. J., Wheelwright P., Dhingra ve Postle R., (1990). Measuring and interpreting low-stress fabric mechanical and surface properties. Part V: Fabric handle attributes and quality descriptors. Textile Research Journal, pp. 7-17.
  • 13. Strazdien, E., Gutauskas, M., (2005). New Method for the Objective Evaluation of Textile Hand, Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 50, No:2, pp. 35-38.
  • 14. Harada, T., Saito, M., Tsutsumi, A., Matsuo, T. (1997), Measurement of Fabric Hand by Sensory Method and Inspection on its Effectiveness for Worsted Woven Fabrics, Journal of Textile Machinery and Society of Japan, Vol.43, No. 2, pp. 47-54.
  • 15. Alimaa, D., Matsuo, T., Nakajima, M., Takahashi, M., Sensory Measurements of the Main Mechanical Parameters of Knitted Fabrics. (2000), Textile Research Journal, Vol. 70, No. 11, pp. 985-990.
  • 16. Ryu, H. S., Kim, E. A., Kim, J. J., Lee, M. S., Oh, K. W., Kwon, S. M. (2001), Subjective Hand and Preference of Women’s Suits Fabrics, 6th Asian Textile Conference, Hong Kong.
  • 17. Cardello, A. V., Winterhalter, C., Schutz, H. G. (2003), Predicting the Handle and Comfort of Military Clothing Fabrics from Sensory and Instrumental Data: Development and Application of New Psychophysical Methods, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 73, No. 3, pp. 221-237.
  • 18. Philippe, F., Schacher, L., Adolphe, D.C., Dacremant, C. (2004), Tactile Feeling: Sensory Analysis Applied to Textile Goods, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 74, No.12, pp. 1066-1072.
  • 19. Sülar, V. (2005), A Study to Estimate Fabric Handle Based on Measurable Fabric Properties, Ph.D.Thesis, Dokuz Eylul University The Graduate School of Natural and Applied Sciences, Turkey.
  • 20. ASTM D1777-96 Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials (2002).
  • 21. ASTM D 1388-96 Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics. (2002.)
  • 22. Siegel, S., (Translator: Topsever, Y.). (1977), Nonparametric Statistics, Ankara University Publishing House: Ankara.
  • 23. Behery, H. M. (Edited by), (2006),Effect of mechanical and physical properties on fabric hand, Woodhead Publishing Ltd, 480 pages.
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-84493666-ec59-4327-a186-1ca1106c898a
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