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Comparative Study of Needle Penetration Forces in Sewing Hems on Toweling Terry Fabrics: Influence of Needle Type and Size

Identyfikatory
Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
In this paper, an industrial case study comparing the use of different needles in the production of hems in towels is presented. The study aims to assess the sewability of the fabrics, quantified by needle penetration forces. The market offers an interesting range of options for the needle, regarding the geometry of the needle point, surface finishing, and sizes. However, in practice, the choice is difficult, namely due to the lack of quantitative data that may support the empirical evaluation made by the sewing technicians. The work aims to assess how the needle type and size relate to the resulting needle penetration forces. Three terry fabric structures, produced by a home textiles manufacturer, were tested using needles of different sizes, points, and coatings. Needle penetration forces were measured on a sewability tester prototype, previously designed and developed, based on an instrumented overedge sewing machine. It was found that needle penetration forces present very significant differences with small size increments, needle coating also influences forces significantly, and different needle points produce only slight differences, significant only on some of the fabrics that were tested.
Rocznik
Strony
194--202
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 21 poz.
Twórcy
  • University of Minho, Dep. of Textile Engineering, Centre for Textile Science and Technology, Campus de Azurém, 4800-058 Guimaraes, Portugal, Phone: +351 967001699, Fax +351 153510293
  • University of Minho, Dep. of Textile Engineering, Centre for Textile Science and Technology, Campus de Azurém, 4800-058 Guimaraes, Portugal, Phone: +351 967001699, Fax +351 153510293
  • University of Minho, Dep. of Textile Engineering, Centre for Textile Science and Technology, Campus de Azurém, 4800-058 Guimaraes, Portugal, Phone: +351 967001699, Fax +351 153510293
Bibliografia
  • [1] Rocha, A., Lima, M., Ferreira, F. N., Araújo, M. (1996). Developments in Automatic Control of Sewing Parameters. Textile Research Journal, 66 (4), pp. 251-256.
  • [2] Rengasamy,R.,Wesley, S. (2011). Effect of Thread Structure on Tension Peaks during Lock Stitch Sewing. AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 11, No1, March 2011.
  • [3] Stylios, G. (1996). The Principles of Intelligent Textile and Garment Manufacturing Systems. Assembly Automation Vol. 16, No. 3, pp. 40-44.
  • [4] Hurt, F. N., Tyler, D. J. (1976). Seam damage in the sewing of knitted fabrics III – The mechanism of damage. HATRAResearch Report, No. 39.
  • [5] Hurt, F. N., Tyler, D. J. (1975). Seam damage in the sewing of knitted fabrics.II – Material Variables. HATRA Research Report, No. 36.
  • [6] Leeming, C. A., Munden, D. L. (1976). Testing fabric sewing properties. US Patent 3979951.
  • [7] Leeming, C. A., Munden, D. L (1978). Investigations into the factors affecting the penetration force of a sewing needle in a knitted fabric and its relationship with fabric sewability. Clothing Research Journal, 6(3).
  • [8] Lomov, S. V. (1997). A predictive model for the penetration force of a woven fabric by a needle. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 10(2).
  • [9] Mallet, E., Du, R. (1998). Finite element analysis of sewing process. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 11(1).
  • [10] Carvalho, H., Ferreira, P., Rocha, A., Monteiro, J. (2003). Signal feature extraction for sewing analysis using non-linear techniques. Proceedings of the 2003 IEEE International Symposium on Industrial Electronics (ISIE), IEEE, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
  • [11] Carvalho, H. (2004). Optimisation and Control of processes in Apparel Manufacturing. PhD thesis. School of Engineering, University of Minho, Portugal. Web site: http://hdl.handle.net/1822/59.
  • [12] Carvalho, H., Rocha, A., Monteiro, J. (2009). Measurement and analysis of needle penetration forces in industrial high-speed sewing machine. Journal of the Textile Institute, 100(4), 319-329, Taylor and Francis, London.
  • [13] Vidrago, C., Abreu, M.J., Soares, G. Carvalho, H. (2015). Cost and efficiency analysis of commercial softeners in the sewability behavior of cotton fabrics. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, Vol. 10, Issue 2, pp 21-28.
  • [14] Grancaric, A.M., Lima, M., Vasconcelos, R., Tarbuk, A. (2005). Handle of cotton knitted fabrics: influence of pretreatments. AUTEX World Textile Conference 2005, University of Maribor, Portoroz, Slovenia.
  • [15] Grancaric, A.M., Ujevic, D., Tarbuk, A., Brlobasic Sajatovic, B. (2009). Enzymatic scouring of cotton knitted fabric with neutral pectinase - the influence to sewability. Tekstil, 58 (11).
  • [16] Ujević, D., Grancaric, A. M., Tarbuk,A., Brlobasic-Sajatovic, B. (2009). Nanotechnology in Textile - Sewability of Cotton Knitted Fabric Treated with Natural Zeolite Nanoparticles. Proceedings of 2nd ITMC 2009, Casablanca.
  • [17] Ujević D., Rogale D., Kartal M., Šajatović B. B. (2008). Impact of Sewing Needle and Thread on the Technological Process of Sewing Knitwear. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, 16 (4).
  • [18] Haghighat, E., Etrati, S. M., Najar, S. S. (2014). Evaluation of woven denim fabric sewability based on needle penetration force, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 9(2).
  • [19] Hsieh, Y. L. (1995). Liquid transport in fa bric structures. Textile Research Journal, 65(5).
  • [20] Groz-Beckert (2016). Sewing machine needles for leather and technical textiles (Gebedur- Needles with titanium nitride coating), retrieved 01/02/2018. Website: https://www.groz-beckert.com/mm/media/en/web/pdf/Sewing_machine_needles_for_leather_and_technical_textiles.pdf
  • [21] Blackwood, W.J., Chamberlain, N.H. (1970). The strength of seams in knitted fabrics, Clothing Institute Technical Report, No. 22.
Uwagi
Opracowanie rekordu ze środków MNiSW, umowa Nr 461252 w ramach programu "Społeczna odpowiedzialność nauki" - moduł: Popularyzacja nauki i promocja sportu (2020).
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-7d5fef03-e5d9-4c99-83b0-c36e59e0c045
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