Production of cosmetic emulsions based on plant biocomponents

• Autorzy: Szaferski Waldemar , Mitkowski Piotr T. , Janczarek Marcin

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.24425/cpe.2023.147401

• Konferencja: 24th Polish Conference of Chemical and Process Engineering, 13-16 June 2023, Szczecin, Poland. Guest editor: Prof. Rafał Rakoczy
• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

Cosmetic emulsion bases containing extracts from natural plants were produced. The emulsifier was an aqueous solution of self-emulsifying base made from apricot kernel oil and soy lecithin, while the oil phase was based on coconut, almond or grape seed oils. In addition, mixtures enriched with vegetable glycerine were produced. It was found that for the emulsions with almond oil as the concentration of the oil phase increased, the value of the average Sauter diameter increased. In comparison, results for emulsions with coconut oil and emulsions with grapeseed oil did not give such a clear relationship. It was also shown that for stable emulsions, the self-emulsifying base of apricot kernel oil performed much better than soy lecithin. The addition of vegetable glycerine to the mixture resulted in a reduction of the average droplet diameter. Produced emulsions were also visually observed for 60 days to assess their stability and possible aging processes. In order to exclude the formation of microorganisms, periodic density control and microscopic examinations were carried out. The presence of microorganisms 30 in the analysed emulsion was evaluated using microscopic and culture techniques. No tarnish waso bserved on the surface of the samples, indicating the formation of mould, which can lead to poisoning and the development of allergies, respiratory diseases, liver diseases, ulcers, or bleeding in the intestines.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

cosmetic emulsions; natural emulsifiers; vegetable oils; emulsifying and stabilising potential; eco-design

PL

emulsje kosmetyczne; naturalne emulgatory; oleje roślinne; potencjał emulgujący i stabilizujący; ekoprojektowanie

• Wydawca: Komitet Inżynierii Chemicznej i Procesowej Polskiej Akademii Nauk
• Czasopismo: Chemical and Process Engineering : New Frontiers
• Rocznik: 2023
• Tom: Vol. 44, nr 4
• Strony: art. no. e42
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 27 poz., rys., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Szaferski Waldemar

• Poznan University of Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology and Engineering, Berdychowo 4, 60-965 Poznan, Poland

• https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7173-279X

autor

Mitkowski Piotr T.

• Poznan University of Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology and Engineering, Berdychowo 4, 60-965 Poznan, Poland

• https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7475-7450

autor

Janczarek Marcin

• Poznan University of Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology and Engineering, Berdychowo 4, 60-965 Poznan, Poland

• https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7719-2536

Bibliografia

• 1. Arancibia C., Navarro-Lisboa R., Zúñiga R.N., Matiacevich S., 2016. Application of CMC as thickener on nanoemulsions based on olive oil: Properties and stability. Int. J. Polym. Sci., 2016, 6280581. DOI: 10.1155/2016/6280581.
• 2. Arniza M.Z., Hoong S.S., Yusop M.R., Hayes D.G., Yeong S.K., Mariam N.M., 2020. Regioselective synthesis of palm-based sorbitol esters as biobased surfactant by lipase from Thermomyces lanuginosus in nonaqueous media. J. Surfactants Deterg., 23, 1067-1077. DOI: 10.1002/jsde.12438.
• 3. Baki H., Kenneth S.A., 2015. Introduction to cosmetic formulation and technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, NewJersey.
• 4. Barel A.O., Paye M., Maibach H.I., 2014. Handbook of cometic science and technology. 4th edition, CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group, Boca, Raton, London, New York. DOI: 10.1201/b16716.
• 5. Bhanger M.I., Anwar F., Memon N., Qadir R., 2020. Chapter 65 – Cold pressed apricot (Prunus armeniaca L.) kernel oil, In: Ramadan M.F., Cold Pressed Oils. Academic Press, 725-730.DOI: 10.1016/B978-0-12-818188-1.00065-7.
• 6. Bhargava H.N., 1987. The present status of formulation of cosmetic emulsions. Drug Dev. Ind. Pharm., 13, 2363–2387. DOI: 10.3109/03639048709020592.
• 7. Dammak I., do Amaral Sobral P.R., Aquino A., das Neves M.A., Conte-Junior C.A., 2020. Nanoemulsions: Using emulsifiers from natural sources replacing synthetic ones-A review. Compr. Rev. Food Sci. Food Saf., 19, 2721–2746. DOI: 10.1111/1541- 4337.12606.
• 8. Dănilă E., Moldovan Z., Kaya M.G.A, Ghica M.V., 2019. Formulation and characterization of some oil in water cosmetic emulsions based on collagen hydrolysate and vegetable oils mixtures. Pure Appl. Chem., 91, 1493–1507. DOI: 10.1515/pac- 2018-0911.
• 9. Daugherty P.M., Sineath H.H., Wastler T.A. 1958. Industrial raw materials of plant origin. IV. A survey of Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba). Econ. Bot. 12, 296–304. DOI: 10.1007/BF02859773.
• 10. Dickinson E., 1993. Towards more natural emulsifiers. Trends. Food. Sci. Technol., 4, 330–334. DOI: 10.1016/0924-2244(93) 90103-H.
• 11. Dini I., Laneri S., 2021. The new challenge of green cosmetics: Natural food ingredients for cosmetic formulations. Molecules, 26, 3921. DOI: 10.3390/molecules26133921.
• 12. Durmaz G., Karabulut İ., Topçu A., Asiltürk M., Kutlu T., 2010. Roasting-related changes in oxidative stability and antioxidant capacity of apricot kernel oil. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 87, 401–409. DOI: 10.1007/s11746-009-1518-9.
• 13. Gilewicz J., 1957. Emulsje. PWN, Warszawa.
• 14. Kavadia M.R., Yadav M.G., Odaneth A.A., Arvind M. Lali., 2017. Production of glyceryl monostearate by immobilized candida antarctica B lipase in organic media. J. Appl. Biotechnol. Bioeng., 2, 96-102. DOI: 10.15406/jabb.2017.02.00031.
• 15. Kichou H., Caritá A.C., Gillet G., Bougassaa L., Perse X., Soucé M., Gressin L., Chourpa I., Bonnier F., Munnier E., 2023. Efficiency of emulsifier-free emulsions in delivering caffeine and¸-tocopherol to human skin. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 45, 329–344. DOI: 10.1111/ics.12837.
• 16. Kunik O., Saribekova D., Lazzara G., Cavallaro G., 2022. Emulsions based on fatty acid from vegetable oils for cosmetics. Ind. Crops Prod., 189, 115776. DOI: 10.1016/j.indcrop.2022.115776.
• 17. Marto J., Nunes A., Martins A.M., Carvalheira J., Prazeres P., Gonçalves L, Marques A., Lucas A., Ribeiro H.M., 2020. Pickering emulsions stabilized by calcium carbonate particles: A new topical formulation. Cosmetics, 7, 62. DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics7030062.
• 18. McClements D.J., Bai L., Chung C., 2017. Recent advances in the utilization of natural emulsifiers to form and stabilize emulsions. Annu. Rev. Food Sci. Technol., 8, 205–236. DOI: 10.1146/annurev-food-030216-030154.
• 19. McClements D.J., Gumus C.E., 2016. Natural emulsifiers – Biosurfactants, phospholipids, biopolymers, and colloidal particles: Molecular and physicochemical basis of functional performance. Adv. Colloid Interface Sci., 234, 3–26. DOI: 10.1016/j.cis.2016.03.002.
• 20. Mollet H., Grubenmann A., 2000. Emulsions – Properties and production, In: Mollet H., Grubenmann A. (Eds.), Formulation technology. WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH, Weinheim. DOI: 10.1002/9783527612925.ch02.
• 21. Norhafipah M., Zarina E., Mohd A.Y., 2008. Producing non-ionic surfactant type of ethox-ylated lauryl alcohol (LAT) based on lauryl alcohol product from palm oil. Malaysian J. Anal. Sci., 12, 224–233.
• 22. Pratap A.P., 2009. Value Added Products from Coconut Oil. J. Cocoinfo Int., 16(2), 24–32.
• 23. Saadi S., Saari N., Ariffin A.A, Ghazali H.M., Hamid A.A., Abdulkarim S.M., Anwar F., Nacer N.E., 2022. Novel emulsifiers and stabilizers from apricot (Prunus armeniaca L.): Their potential therapeutic targets and functional properties. Appl. Food Res., 2, 100085. DOI: 10.1016/j.afres.2022.100085.
• 24. Sinko P.J., Singh Y., 2011. Martin’s physical pharmacy and pharmaceutical sciences. 6th edition, Wolters Kluwer, Lippincos Williams & Wilkins.
• 25. Tiwari U., Ganesan N.G., Junnarkar J., Rangarajan V., 2022.Toward the formulation of bio-cosmetic nanoemulsions: from plant-derived to microbial-derived ingredients. J. Dispersion Sci. Technol., 43, 1061-1078. DOI: 10.1080/01932691.2020.1847664.
• 26. Vadgama R., 2015. Biocatalyst based process for fatty acid esters synthesis. Int. J. Sci. Res. (IJRS), 4(4), 1752–1753.
• 27. Venkataramani D., Tsulaia A., Amin S., 2020. Fundamentals and applications of particle stabilized emulsions in cosmetic formulations. Adv. Colloid Interface Sci., 283, 102234. DOI: 10.1016/j.cis.2020.102234.

Uwagi

Opracowanie rekordu ze środków MNiSW, umowa nr POPUL/SP/0154/2024/02 w ramach programu "Społeczna odpowiedzialność nauki II" - moduł: Popularyzacja nauki (2025)