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Języki publikacji
Abstrakty
The factors influencing for fit and suit of women’s clothing have been studied. The main reason of misfit is the nonconformity between the front and back width of pattern block, the corresponding body sizes taken across the hipline, and the textile materials properties. To predict the behavior of textile fabrics in real clothes including the shear deformation and wrinkles appearing, the special test and device have been designed. The developed method of pattern block making includes the test of clothes proportionality based on the female bodies sizes, pattern block indexes, and textile fabrics properties. Features of “figure-clothes” systems in-cluding the vertical designing lines, styles, volume of clothes, ease allowance and its distribution between the back, armhole, and front of the pattern blocks were taken into consideration. Recommendations in terms of selecting the proper design of style for different sizes of female bodies have been made.
Czasopismo
Rocznik
Tom
Strony
111--119
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 22 poz.
Twórcy
autor
- Department of Clothing Design, Textile Institute, Ivanovo State Polytechnic University, 21, Sheremetev Ave., Ivanovo, Russian Federation tel.: +79203514801, fax.: +74932412108
autor
- Department of Clothing Design, Textile Institute, Ivanovo State Polytechnic University, 21, Sheremetev Ave., Ivanovo, Russian Federation tel.: +79203514801, fax.: +74932412108
autor
- Department of Clothing Design, Textile Institute, Ivanovo State Polytechnic University, 21, Sheremetev Ave., Ivanovo, Russian Federation tel.: +79203514801, fax.: +74932412108
Bibliografia
- [1] Aldrich W. (2004). Metric Pattern Cutting. (4th ed.). Oxford (England). Blackwell Publishing Ltd. (Oxford).
- [2] Beazley A.(1997). Size and fit: Procedures in undertaking a survey of body measurements. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2(1), 55-85.
- [3] Goldsberry E. et al.(1996). Women 55 Years and Older: site II. Overall Satisfaction and Dissatisfaction with the Fit of Ready-to-Wear, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 14(2), 121-132.
- [4]. Joseph-Armstrong H.(2010). Patternmaking for Fashion Design. (5 ed.). Los Angeles (USA). Prentice Hall (Los Angeles).
- [5] Koblyakova E.B. (1984). Basics of designing the rational apparel sizes and shapes. Moscow (Russia Federation). Light and food industry (Moscow).
- [6] Kuzmichev V.; et al.(2011). System analysis of Pattern Block. Ivanovo (Russia Federation). ISTA (Ivanovo).
- [7] LaBat K. L., DeLong M.(1990). Body Cathexis and Satisfaction with Fit of Apparel. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 8(2), 43-48.
- [8] Guo M., Kuzmichev V., Adolphe D. (2015). Human friendly design of virtual system “Female body - dress”. AUTEX Research Journal, (15)1, 19-29.
- [9] Guo M., Kuzmichev V. (2013). Pressure and comfort perception in the system “female body-dress”. AUTEX Research Journal, 13(3), 71-78.
- [10] Surikova G.I. et al.(2006). Intellectual pattern cutting of female apparel in CAD “Grazia”. Sewing industry, 3.
- [11] Aldrich W. (2012).Fabrics and Pattern Cutting. Chichester (England). John Wiley & Sons Inc (Chichester).
- [12] Collier B. et al.(1989). Effects of Interfacing Type on Shear And Drape Behavior of Apparel Fabrics. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 7(3), 51-56.
- [13] Robson D.; Long C.(2000). Drape Analysis using Imaging Techniques. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 18(1), 1-8.
- [14] Patent № 2478323 RU A41H3/00 3/06 (2013). Pattern for pattern block diagnostics / Surikova G.I., Surikova O.V., Kuzmichev V.E. Published 10/04/2013.
- [15] Gushchina K.G., Belyaeva S.A., Komandrikova E.J. et al.(1984). Performance characteristics of clothing materials and methods to estimate their quality. Moscow (Russia Federation). Light and food industry(Moscow).
- [16] GOST 3813-72 (1972). Cloths textile and products. Methods of tensile characteristics testing.
- [17] Common Metric Method Pattern Design (1988). Basic Blocks. Vol. 2.Moscow (Russia Federation). CSDITEIlegprom (Moscow).
- [18] Yanchevskaya E.A. (2005). Pattern Cutting. Moscow (Russia Federation) Academia (Moscow).
- [19] Martinova A.I., Andreeva N.A. (2002). Pattern Cutting. Moscow(Russia Federation). MSALI (Moscow).
- [20] Rogov P.I., Konopalceva N.M.(2004). Pattern Cutting for individual Figures. Moscow (Russia Federation). Academia (Moscow).
- [21] Standard table of body measurements for women’s patterns and apparel. (2003). Moscow (Russia Federation). CNIISHP (Moscow).
- [22] ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials). (1994). D 5586- 94: Standard table of body measurements for women aged 55 and older. New York (USA). American National Standards Institute (New York).
Uwagi
Opracowanie ze środków MNiSW w ramach umowy 812/P-DUN/2016 na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (zadania 2017).
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
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