Structural and Physiological Properties of Footwear Textiles

• Autorzy: Kaziur Patrycja , Mikołajczyk Zbigniew

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.2478/ftee-2023-0047

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

Textile uppers in the form of fitted knitted fabrics are now gaining in importance in the production of commercial footwear. The subject of this study was twelve different textile uppers and two reference leather materials. Structural properties and parameters of physiological comfort were characterized for selected variants. In order to analyze the thermo-physiological properties of the upper parts of the footwear, air permeability, thermal insulation properties, water vapor permeability and sorption properties were measured. Among the variants of textile uppers analyzed, the most desirable functional properties were shown by knitted fabrics made on cylindrical crochet machines of large diameters. The varnished cowhide leather variant was characterized by the worst hygienic properties.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

footwear; comfort; footwear upper; physiological properties

• Wydawca: Sieć Badawcza Łukasiewicz - Łódzki Instytut Technologiczny
• Czasopismo: Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe
• Rocznik: 2023
• Tom: Vol. 31, no. 5
• Strony: 75--85
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 41 poz., rys., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Kaziur Patrycja

• Lodz University of Technology, Faculty of Materials Technologies and Textile Design, Department of Knitting Technologies and Textile Machines

autor

Mikołajczyk Zbigniew

• Lodz University of Technology, Faculty of Materials Technologies and Textile Design, Department of Knitting Technologies and Textile Machines

Bibliografia

• 1. Mikołajczyk Z, Prążyńska A, Kaziur P. Innowacyjna technologia obuwia sportowego z wykorzystaniem dzianych cholewek knit and wear [An innovative sports footwear technology with the use of knit and wear uppers, in Polish]. Technologia i Jakość Wyrobów. 2017;62:27–38.
• 2. Pavko Čuden A. Recent developments in knitting technology. In: Advanced Knitting Technology. Elsevier. 2022;3–66.
• 3. Wharton N. Health and safety in outdoor activity centres. J Adventure Ed Outdoor Lead. 1996;12(4):8–9.
• 4. Gulas SB, Imre HM. The Use of High Performance Textile Surfaces in Sport Shoe Designs. J. Fash. Technol. Text. Eng. 2020;8(4):1-5.
• 5. Rossi M, Papetti A, Marconi M, Germani M. Life cycle assessment of a leather shoe supply chain. International Journal of Sustainable Engineering. 2021;14(4):686–703.
• 6. Muthu SS. Leather and Footwear Sustainability: Manufacturing, Supply Chain, and Product Level Issues. Singapore: Springer; 2021.
• 7. Nishiwaki T. Footwear Fitting Design. W Emotional Engineering. London: Springer; 2011.
• 8. Bitlissli B, Adıgüzel Zengin A, Yeldiyar G, Kairanbekov G, Küçükakın E. Upper leathers in shoe manufacturing. Journal of Industrial Technology and Engineering. 2013;2(07):37–41.
• 9. Robbins S, Waked E. Balance and vertical impact in sports: Role of shoe sole materials. Archives of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation. 1997;78(5):463–467.
• 10. Golubeva O, Pogorelova A. Analysis of the quality of modern polymer materials of sole. Paper presented at: INTERGROMASH Conferences; 2021 Feb 24-26; Rostov-on-Don, Russia. Springer Cham; 2021.
• 11. Tilbrooke D. Leather: Structure and historical manufacture. ICCM Bulletin. 1977;3(2):27–32.
• 12. Sizeland KH, Edmonds RL, Basil-Jones MM, Kirby N, Hawley A, Mudie S. Haverkamp RG. Changes to Collagen Structure during Leather Processing. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 2015;63(9):2499–2505.
• 13. Bower B. Humans: Shoe steps out of Copper Age: Armenian cave search yields oldest known leather footwear. Science News. 2010;178(1):14-14.
• 14. Mardon A, Marcey C, Priyanshu M. Ötzi Man. Edmonton: Golden Meteorite Press; 2021.
• 15. London, M. Shoes and pattens. Martlesham: Boydell Press; 2021.
• 16. Mass Customization and Footwear: Myth, Salvation or Reality?. London: Springer; 2021.
• 17. Niinimäki K, Peters G, Dahlbo H, Perry, P, Rissane T, Gwilt A. The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth & Environment. 2020;1(4):189–200.
• 18. China CR, Maguta MM, Nyandoro SS, Hilonga A, Kanth SV, Njau KN. Alternative tanning technologies and their suitability in curbing environmental pollution from the leather industry: A comprehensive review. Chemosphere. 2020;254:126804.
• 19. Azambuja P, Marques A, Broega A. Sustainability in the Portuguese fashion accessory & footwear industry (case studies). Leather and Footwear Journal. 2019;19(1):41–50.
• 20. Unit 2. Sustainable Materials and Components for Footwear. How to Implement Sustainable Manufacturing in Footwear - New Occupational Profile and Training Opportunities. CTCP Portugal. 2016. Project number: 539823-LLP-1-2013-1-PT-LEONARDO-LMP. [homepage on the Internet]. c2023 [updated 2023 Aug 1; cited 2023 OCT 10]. Available from: https://research.cnr.ncsu.edu/sustainablebioproducts/wp-content/uploads/sites/55/2020/08/Sustainable-Materials-and-Components-for-Footwear.pdf
• 21. Keyser A. Sneaker Century. Minneapolis: Lerner Publishing Group; 2015.
• 22. Textiles in Sport. Amsterdam: Elsevier; 2005.
• 23. NYU Stern Center for Sustainable Business. Nike: Sustainability and Innovation through Flyknit Technology [homepage on the Internet]. c2023 [updated 2023 Aug 23; cited 2023 Oct 9]. Available from https://www.stern.nyu.edu/sites/default/files/assets/documents/Nike_Carly_04.2017%20-%20Copy.pdf
• 24. Kaziur P, Mikołajczyk Z Kłonowska M, Woźniak B. Design Methodology and Technology of Textile Footwear. Materials. 2022,15(16):5720.
• 25. International Organization for Standardization. ISO 5084:1999; Textiles — Determination of thickness of textiles and textile. Genva: ISO; 1999.
• 26. PKN. PN-P-04613:1997. Tekstylia - Dzianiny i przędziny - Wyznaczanie masy liniowej i powierzchniowej [Textiles - Knitted and spun fabrics - Determination of linear and surface mass, in Polish]. Warsaw: PKN; 1997.
• 27. International Organization for Standardization. ISO 9237:1995; Textiles—Determination of the Permeability of Fabric to Air. Geneva: ISO; 1995.
• 28. Matusiak M, Kowalczyk S. Thermal-Insulation Properties of Multilayer Textile Packages. Autex Research Journal. 2014;14(4):299-307.
• 29. Matusiak M. Innovative Materials and Technologies in Made-up Textile Articles and Footwear. Lodz: Lodz University of Technology Press; 2008. Assessment of Thermal Insulation Properties of Fabrics by Means of Innovative Measurement Techniques.
• 30. Matusiak M, Sikorski K. Influence of the Structure of Woven Fabrics on Their Thermal Insulation Properties. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe. 2011;19(5):46-53.
• 31. El-Habiby A. Utilization of Alambeta Apparatus in Predicting Thermal Properties of Single and Multiple Layers of Woven and Nonwoven Fabrics. MEJ. Mansoura Engineering Journal. 2020;20(1):1-10.
• 32. International Organization for Standardization. ISO 11092:2014; Textiles — Physiological effects — Measurement of thermal and water-vapour resistance under steady-state conditions (sweating guarded-hotplate test). Genva: ISO; 1995.
• 33. Fung F, Gao, C, Hes L, Bajzik V. Water vapor resistance measured on sweating thermal manikin and Permetest skin model in the vertical orientation. Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products. 2020;1(1):65-73.
• 34. Bogusławska-Bączek M, Hes L. Effective Water Vapour Permeability of Wet Wool Fabric and Blended Fabrics. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe. 2013;21,1(97): 67-71.
• 35. Skenderi Z, Salopek Čubrić I, Srdjak M. Water Vapour Resistance of Knitted Fabrics under Different Environmental Conditions. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe. 2009;17(2):72-75.
• 36. M 290 MMT Moisture Management Tester. Instruction manual (2017) Rev. 1.2 SDL Atlas Ltd.
• 37. Hu J,Yi L, Kwok-Wing Y, Anthony S, Wong W, Weilin X. Moisture Management Tester: A Method to Characterize Fabric Liquid Moisture Management Properties. Textile Research Journal. 2005;75(1): 57–62.
• 38. Matusiak M. Moisture Management Properties of Seersucker Woven Fabrics of Different Structure. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe. 2019;135:43-50.
• 39. Matusiak M, Kamińska D. Liquid Moisture Transport in Cotton Woven Fabrics with Different Weft Yarns. Materials. 2022;15(18):6489.
• 40. Achour NS, Hamadaoui M, Nasrallah B, Perwuelz A. Investigation of Moisture Management Properties of Cotton and Blended Knitted Fabrics. International Journal of Materials and Metallurgical Engineering. 2015; 9(7): 891-895.
• 41. Kaziur P, Mikołajczyk Z, Matusiak M. Identification of wearing comfort of the textile uppers of commercial footwear. Paper presented at: 21st World Textile Conference AUTEX 2022 Passion for Innovation; 2022 Jun 7-10; Lodz, Poland. Lodz University of Technology Press; 2022. p. 397-400