Comparative biomechanical characteristics of one-arm hang in climbing for beginners and qualified athletes

• Autorzy: Kozin Sergii , Safronov Danil , Kozina Zhanneta , Kniaz Hanna , Proskurnia Olexsii , Prontenko Kostiantyn , Lahno Olena , Goncharenko Volodymyr , Kholodniy Alexandr

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.37190/ABB-01440-2019-03

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

The aim of the study was to identify the basic kinematic characteristics of the one-arm hang in climbing for beginners and qualified climbers. Material and methods: Technique of the one-arm hang in climbing among 20 leading climbers of the World and Ukraine and 20 beginner male amateur climbers was analyzed. A qualified athlete participated in the demonstration of various models of the one-arm hang performance. By means of Kinovea software 0.8.15, the kinematic characteristics of two models of the technique were analyzed (model 1 for beginner athletes, model 2 for qualified athletes). Results: The presence of significant differences ( p < 0.001) between beginners and qualified athletes in the magnitude of the angles between the shoulder and clavicle, between the spine and the vertical axis in the phase of fixation of the one-arm hang was revealed. The dynamics of the angle between the shoulder and clavicle from the moment of capture of the climbing hold to the phase of fixation of the hang was shown. A theoretical justification for the correct climbing technique regarding to the laws of mechanics and the laws of force interaction in kinematic chain was provided. Conclusions: Beginner athletes carry out the one-arm hang mainly due to the ligamentous apparatus of the joints of the shoulder girdle with minimal inclusion of muscles, which is dangerous by trauma to the ligaments of the shoulder joint. Skilled athletes perform the one-arm hang with trunk and leg muscles included, which reduces the strain from the ligamentous apparatus and lowers the possibility of injury to the ligaments of the shoulder joint.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

rock climbing; bouldering; technique; kinematic characteristics

PL

wspinaczka skałkowa; wspinaczka bez liny; charakterystyka kinetyczna

• Wydawca: Oficyna Wydawnicza Politechniki Wrocławskiej
• Czasopismo: Acta of Bioengineering and Biomechanics
• Rocznik: 2020
• Tom: Vol. 22, no. 1
• Strony: 57--66
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 27 poz., rys., tab., wykr.

Twórcy

autor

Kozin Sergii

• Department of Olympic and Professional Sport and Sport Games, H.S. Skovoroda Kharkiv National Pedagogical University, Kharkiv, Ukraine

autor

Safronov Danil

• V.N. Karazin Kharkiv National University, Department of Surgical diseases and Topographic Anatomy, Kharkiv, Ukraine

autor

Kozina Zhanneta

• Department of Olympic and Professional Sport and Sport Games, H.S. Skovoroda Kharkiv National Pedagogical University, Kharkiv, Ukraine

autor

Kniaz Hanna

• Department of Practice English Oral and Written Speech, H.S. Skovoroda Kharkiv National Pedagogical University, Kharkiv, Ukraine

autor

Proskurnia Olexsii

• Department of Mathematics, H.S. Skovoroda Kharkiv National Pedagogical University, Kharkiv, Ukraine

autor

Prontenko Kostiantyn

• Department of Physical Education, Special Physical Training and Sport, S.P. Koroliov Zhytomyr Military Institute, Zhytomyr, Ukraine

autor

Lahno Olena

• Department of Physical Education and Sports, Pridneprovsk National Academy of Building and Architecture, Dnipro, Ukraine

autor

Goncharenko Volodymyr

• Department of Theory and Methods of Sport, A.S. Makarenko Sumy State Pedagogical University, Sumy, Ukraine

autor

Kholodniy Alexandr

• Department of Theoretical and Methodological Foundations of Physical Education and Rehabilitation, Donbas State Pedagogical University, Slavyansk, Ukraine

Bibliografia

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Uwagi

Opracowanie rekordu ze środków MNiSW, umowa Nr 461252 w ramach programu "Społeczna odpowiedzialność nauki" - moduł: Popularyzacja nauki i promocja sportu (2020).