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The aim of the study was to identify the basic kinematic characteristics of the one-arm hang in climbing for beginners and qualified climbers. Material and methods: Technique of the one-arm hang in climbing among 20 leading climbers of the World and Ukraine and 20 beginner male amateur climbers was analyzed. A qualified athlete participated in the demonstration of various models of the one-arm hang performance. By means of Kinovea software 0.8.15, the kinematic characteristics of two models of the technique were analyzed (model 1 for beginner athletes, model 2 for qualified athletes). Results: The presence of significant differences ( p < 0.001) between beginners and qualified athletes in the magnitude of the angles between the shoulder and clavicle, between the spine and the vertical axis in the phase of fixation of the one-arm hang was revealed. The dynamics of the angle between the shoulder and clavicle from the moment of capture of the climbing hold to the phase of fixation of the hang was shown. A theoretical justification for the correct climbing technique regarding to the laws of mechanics and the laws of force interaction in kinematic chain was provided. Conclusions: Beginner athletes carry out the one-arm hang mainly due to the ligamentous apparatus of the joints of the shoulder girdle with minimal inclusion of muscles, which is dangerous by trauma to the ligaments of the shoulder joint. Skilled athletes perform the one-arm hang with trunk and leg muscles included, which reduces the strain from the ligamentous apparatus and lowers the possibility of injury to the ligaments of the shoulder joint.
Czasopismo
Rocznik
Tom
Strony
57--66
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 27 poz., rys., tab., wykr.
Twórcy
autor
- Department of Olympic and Professional Sport and Sport Games, H.S. Skovoroda Kharkiv National Pedagogical University, Kharkiv, Ukraine
autor
- V.N. Karazin Kharkiv National University, Department of Surgical diseases and Topographic Anatomy, Kharkiv, Ukraine
autor
- Department of Olympic and Professional Sport and Sport Games, H.S. Skovoroda Kharkiv National Pedagogical University, Kharkiv, Ukraine
autor
- Department of Practice English Oral and Written Speech, H.S. Skovoroda Kharkiv National Pedagogical University, Kharkiv, Ukraine
autor
- Department of Mathematics, H.S. Skovoroda Kharkiv National Pedagogical University, Kharkiv, Ukraine
autor
- Department of Physical Education, Special Physical Training and Sport, S.P. Koroliov Zhytomyr Military Institute, Zhytomyr, Ukraine
autor
- Department of Physical Education and Sports, Pridneprovsk National Academy of Building and Architecture, Dnipro, Ukraine
autor
- Department of Theory and Methods of Sport, A.S. Makarenko Sumy State Pedagogical University, Sumy, Ukraine
autor
- Department of Theoretical and Methodological Foundations of Physical Education and Rehabilitation, Donbas State Pedagogical University, Slavyansk, Ukraine
Bibliografia
- [1] BERNSTEIN N.A., The co-ordination and regulation of movements, Pergamon Press, Oxford 1967.
- [2] BERTUZZI R.C.D., FRANCHINI E., KOKUBUN E., KISS M., Energy system contributions in indoor rock climbing, European Journal of Applied Physiology, 2007, 101(3), 293–300, DOI: 10.1007/s00421-007-0501-0.
- [3] CAMPBELL A.D., DAVIS C., PATERSON R., CUSHING T.A., NG P., PETERSON C.S. et al., Preparticipation Evaluation for Climbing Sports, Clinical Journal of Sport Medicine, 2015, 25 (5), 412–7, DOI: 10.1097/jsm.0000000000000247.
- [4] CARR G., Mechanics of Sport, Human Kinetics, Champaign, IL 1997.
- [5] COOPER J.M., GLASSOW R.B., Kinesiology, 4th ed. St. Louis, MO: Mosby 1916.
- [6] DOUWES M., DU I.J., Validity and reliability of estimating body angles by direct and indirect observations, [in:] Designing for Everyone: Proceedings of the International Ergonomics Association (ed. by Y. Queinnec and F. Daniellou), Taylor & Francis, London 1991, 885–887.
- [7] HAMILL J., KNUTZEN K.M., Biomechanical Basis of Human Movement, Lippincott Williams & Wilkins, 2006.
- [8] HARRIETT R., Sports Biomechanics: Reducing Injury and Improving Performance, E & FN Spon, London 1999.
- [9] HIDES J., STANTON W., Can motor control training lower the risk of injury for professional football players?, Med. Sci. Sports Exerc., 2014, 46(4), 762–8, DOI: 10.1249/MSS.0000000000000169. PubMed PMID: 24056268.
- [10] KOZIN S.V., Biomechanical substantiation of the technique of hanging in rock climbing, Health, sport, rehabilitation, 2019, 5 (1), 25–35, DOI: 10.34142/HSR.2019.05.01.03.
- [11] KOZINA Z., OL’KHOVYJ O., TEMCHENKO V., Influence of information technologies on technical fitness of students in sportoriented physical education, Physical education of students, 2016, 20 (1), 21–8, DOI: 10.15561/20755279.2016.0103.
- [12] KOZINA Z., PRUSIK K., PRUSIK K., The concept of individual approach in sport, Pedagogics, psychology, medical-biological problems of physical training and sports, 2015, 19 (3), 28–7, DOI: 10.15561/18189172.2015.0305.
- [13] KOZINA Z., REPKO O., KOZIN S., KOSTYRKO A., YERMAKOVA T., GONCHARENKO V., Motor skills formation technique in 6 to 7-year-old children based on their psychological and physical features (rock climbing as an example), Journal of Physical Education and Sport, 2016, 16 (3), 866–874, DOI:10.7752/jpes.2016.03137.
- [14] KOZINA Z., REPKO O., SAFRONOV D., KOZIN S., EVARNICKII I., GREBNIOVA I., System of development of coordination abilities of young climbers 6–7 years, Health, Sport, Rehabilitation, 2018, 4 (4), 62–71, DOI: 10.5281/zenodo.2536470 (in Russian).
- [15] LUTTER C., SCHWEIZER A., HOCHHOLZER T., BAYER T., SCHOFFL V., Pulling Harder than the Hamate Tolerates: Evaluation of Hamate Injuries in Rock Climbing and Bouldering, Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, 2016, 27 (4), 492–9, DOI: 10.1016/j.wem.2016.09.003.
- [16] MCCARTHY J., SOH G., Geometric Design of Linkages, Springer, New York 2010.
- [17] MYER G., FORD K., PALUMBO J., HEWETT T., Neuromuscular training improves performance and lower-extremity biomechanics in female athletes, J. Strength Cond. Res., 2005, 19 (1), 51–60.
- [18] NEWELL K.M., Constraints on the development of coordination, [in:] M.G. Wade, H.T.A. Whiting (Eds.), Motor development in children, Aspects of coordination and control, Nijhoff, Amsterdam 1986, 341–361.
- [19] RODIO A., QUATTRINI F.M., FATTORINI L., EGIDI F., MARCHETTI M., Physiological significance of efficiency in rock climbing, Medicina Dello Sport, 2006, 59 (3), 313–7.
- [20] ROYLANCE D., Mechanical properties of materials, 2008.
- [21] SCHOFFL V., LUTTER C., POPP D., The "Heel Hook" – A Climbing-Specific Technique to Injure the Leg, Wilderness and Environmental Medicine, 2016, 27 (2), 294–301, DOI: 10.1016/j.wem.2015.12.007.
- [22] SCHOFFL V., LUTTER C., WOOLLINGS K., SCHOFFL I,. Pediatric and adolescent injury in rock climbing, Research in Sports Medicine, 2018, 26, 91–113, DOI: 10.1080/15438627.2018.1438278.
- [23] SCHOFFL V.R., HOFFMANN P.M., IMHOFF A., KUPPER T., SCHOFFL I., HOCHHOLZER T., HINTERWIMMER S., Long-Term Radiographic Adaptations to Stress of High-Level and Recreational Rock Climbing in Former Adolescent Athletes: An 11-Year Prospective Longitudinal Study, Orthopaedic Journal of Sports Medicine, 2018, 6 (9), DOI: 10.1177/2325967118792847.
- [24] SHINKLE J., NESSER T., DEMCHAK T., MCMANNUS D., Effect of core strength on the measure of power in the extremities, J. Strength Cond. Res., 2016, 26 (2), 373–80, DOI: 10.1519/JSC.0b013e31822600e5.
- [25] UICKER J., PENNOCK G., SHIGLEY J., Theory of Machines and Mechanisms, Oxford University Press, New York 2003.
- [26] VAN MIDDELKOOP M., BRUENS M.L., COERT J.H., SELLES R.W., VERHAGEN E., BIERMA-ZEINSTRA S.A. et al., Incidence and Risk Factors for Upper Extremity Climbing Injuries in Indoor Climbers, International Journal of Sports Medicine, 2015, 36 (10), 837–42, DOI: 10.1055/s-0035-1547224.
- [27] WHITE D.J., OLSEN P.D., A time motion analysis of bouldering style competitive rock climbing, Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 2010, 24 (5), 1356–60, DOI: 10.1519/JSC.0b013e3181cf75bd.
Uwagi
Opracowanie rekordu ze środków MNiSW, umowa Nr 461252 w ramach programu "Społeczna odpowiedzialność nauki" - moduł: Popularyzacja nauki i promocja sportu (2020).
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-60d89101-533c-4c9f-af49-f675b66e60e4