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Tytuł artykułu

Influence of the Structural Parameters of Woven Fabrics on their Drapeability

Autorzy
Treść / Zawartość
Identyfikatory
Warianty tytułu
PL
Wpływ parametrów strukturalnych tkanin na ich układalność
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
Drape is a very important utility parameter of fabrics, especially applied in clothing. It influences the aesthetic effect of clothing, in particular its fitting to the user’s body. Fabric draping is the result of interaction between gravitation and various fabric characteristics. In the work presented, cotton woven fabrics of different structure were measured in the range of their drapeability. The fabrics differed from each other in the range of their weave and linear density of weft yarn. Measurement of the fabrics was made by means of a fabric drape tester. Results of the measurement were analysed in the aspect of the relationships between the drape of the fabrics and their parameters, such as the kind of weft yarn, weave, weft density and stiffness. Results confirmed that for the group of fabrics investigated, their stiffness is the most significant property influencing the drapeability of fabrics. Additionally different weaves result in different values of the drape coefficient and shape factor.
PL
Układalność jest bardzo ważnym parametrem użytkowym tkanin, zwłaszcza stosowanych w odzieży. Wpływa ona na walory estetyczne odzieży, w szczególności jej dopasowanie do sylwetki użytkownika. Układalność tkanin jest efektem wzajemnego oddziaływania sztywności zginania i masy powierzchniowej. W artykule przedstawiono badania układalności tkanin o zróżnicowanej strukturze, wynikającej z zastosowania różnych splotów oraz masy liniowej przędzy wątkowej. Wyniki przeanalizowano pod kątem zależności pomiędzy układalnością tkanin, a ich parametrami strukturalnymi, takimi jak: masa powierzchniowa, splot, grubość i liczność wątku.
Słowa kluczowe
Rocznik
Strony
56--64
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 38 poz., rys., tab.
Twórcy
autor
  • Institute of Textile Architecture, Lodz University of Technology, ul. Żeromskiego 116, 90-924 Łódź, Poland
Bibliografia
  • 1. Textile Metrology in Polish, Volume IV, Edited by Szmelter W., WNT, Warsaw 1973.
  • 2. Peirce FT. The handle of cloth as a measurable quantity. Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions 1930; 21(9): T377-T416.
  • 3. Kenkare N, May-Plumlee T. Fabric Drape Measurement: A Modified Method Using Digital Image Processing. Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management, 2005; 4, 3: pp. 1-8.
  • 4. Chu C C, Cummings C L, Teixeira N A. Mechanics of Elastic Performance of Textile materials. Part V: A Study of the Factors Affecting the Drape of Fabrics – The Development of the Drape Meter. Textile Research Journal 1950, 20 (8): 539-48.
  • 5. Saville B P. Physical Testing of Textiles. Woodhead Publishing Ltd, Cambridge England, 1999, ISBN 0849305683.
  • 6. Polish Standard PN 73/P-04736. Test Methods for Textiles, Woven Fabrics, Determination of Drapeability.
  • 7. Sanad R, Cassidy T, Cheung V. Fabric and Garment Drape Measurement – Part 1. Journal of Fiber Bioengineering & Informatics 2012; 5, 4: 341-358.
  • 8. Ranganathan T S, Ramaswamy D, Jayaraman K S, Sanjeevi R, Arumugam V, Das S, et al. A new approach to drape. Journal of Textile Institute 1986; 77(3): 226-228.
  • 9. Stylios G K and Zhu R. The characterization of the static and dynamic drape of fabrics. Journal of Textile Institute 1997; 88(4): 465-475.
  • 10. Matsudaira M and Yang M. Some features of the static and dynamic drape behaviour of polyester-fibre shingosen fabrics. Journal of Textile Institute 2000; 91(4): 600-615.
  • 11. Stylios G K and Powell N J. Engineering the drapability of textile fabrics. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology. 2003; 15, 3-4: 211-217.
  • 12. Jevšnik S and Geršak J. Modelling the Fused Panel for a Numerical Simulation of Drape. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2004; 12, 1(45): 47-52.
  • 13. Ng S F, Hui CL and Tam F Y. Analysis of Fabric Drape and Garment Drape, Research. Journal of Textile and Apparel 1997; 6, 2: 65-74.
  • 14. Žunič Lojen D and Jevšnik S. Some Aspects of Fabric Drape. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2007; 15, 4(63): 39-45.
  • 15. Gabrijelčič Tomc H and Hladnik A. 1D and 2D Shape Descriptors Applied in Fabric Drape Computer Simulation. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2015; 23, 6(114): 92-101.
  • 16. Tokarska M and Gniotek K. Anisotropy of the electrical properties of flat textiles. Journal of Textile Instiute 2015; 106, 1, 2: 9-18.
  • 17. Leśnikowski J and Tokarska M. Modeling of selected electric properties of textile signal lines using neural networks. Textile Research Journal 2014; 84, 3: 290-302.
  • 18. Matusiak M and Sikorski K. Influence of the structure of woven fabrics on their thermal insulation properties. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2011; 88, 5: 46-53.
  • 19. Hearle J WS and Amirbayat J. The design of a multipurpose fabric tester. Journal of Textile Institute 1988; 79(4): 588-597.
  • 20. Mizutani C, Amano T and Sakaguchi Y. A new apparatus for the study of fabric drape, Textile Research Journal 2005; 75(1): 81-87.
  • 21. Hes L. Marketing Aspects of Clothing Comfort Evaluation In: Proceedings of X. International İzmir Textile Symposium, Izmir 2004.
  • 22. Stylios G K, Norman J, Powell N J and Cheng L. An investigation into the engineering of the drapability of fabric. Transactions of the Institute of Measurement and Control 2002; 24, 1: pp. 33-50.
  • 23. Žunič Lojen D and JevšnikS. Some Aspects of Fabric Drape. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2007; 15, 4(63): 37-45.
  • 24. Shyr T-W, Wang P-N and Lin J-Y. Subjective and Objective Evaluation Methods to Determine the Peak-trough Threshold of the Drape Fabric Node. Textile Research Journal 2009; 79(13): 1223-1234.
  • 25. Al-Gaadi B, Göktepe F and Halász M. A new method in fabric drape measurement and analysis of the drape formation process. Textile Research Journal 2012; 82, 5: 502-512.
  • 26. Nofitoska M, Demboski G, Carvalho M A F. Effect of Fabric Structure Variation on Garment Aesthetic Properties. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 2014; 24(2): pp. 132- 136.
  • 27. Erdumlu N. Evaluation of Drape, Bending and Formability of Woven Fabrics Made from Metal Covered Hybrid Yarns. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 2015; 25(1): pp. 47-53.
  • 28. Frydrych I, Dziworska G and Matusiak M. Influence of the kind of fabric finishing on selected aesthetic and utility properties. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2003; 11(3): pp. 31-37.
  • 29. Sukumar N, Gnanavel P and Ananthakrishnan T. Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics. African Research Review 2009; 3(3): pp. 62-72.
  • 30. Hu J and Chan Y-F. Effect of Fabric Mechanical Properties on Drape. Textile Research Journal 1998; 68 (1): pp. 57- 64.
  • 31. Özdil N, Özgüney A T, Süpüren Mengüç G and Sertsöz S. Influence of Yarn and Fabric Construction Parameters on Drape and Bending Behaviour of Cotton Woven Fabrics. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 2014; 24(2): 169-179.
  • 32. Özçelik G, Kayseri1, Özdil n., and MengüçG.S. Sensorial Comfort of Textile Materials, chapter in: Woven Fabrics edited by Han-Yong Jeon, published by InTech, Rijeka Croatia 2012.
  • 33. Polish Standard PN-33/P-04631. Determination of stiffness of textiles.
  • 34. Metrology of raw materials and textiles. Laboratory. Part II, edited by Konecki W., Lodz University of Technology, Lodz 1996.
  • 35. Hes L. Fundaments of Design of Fabrics and Garments with Demanded Thermophysiological Comfort, available in Internet: <centrum.tul.cz/centrum/itsapt/.../ comflec.ppt>
  • 36. Milašius V. An Integrated Structure Factor for Woven Fabrics. Part I: Estimation of the Weave. The Journal of the Textile Institute 2000; 91, 2: pp. 268-276.
  • 37. Milašius V. An Integrated Structure Factor for Woven Fabrics. Part II: The Fabric-firmness Factor. The Journal of the Textile Institute 2000; 91, 2: 277-284.
  • 38. Masajtis J. Structural analysis of woven fabrics in Polish, PAN O/Lodz 1999, ISBN 83- 86492-05-8.
Uwagi
Opracowanie ze środków MNiSW w ramach umowy 812/P-DUN/2016 na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (zadania 2017).
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-57416a38-9c34-4d2a-94cd-44ebfdc3ce74
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