Impact of Male Body Posture and Shape on Design and Garment Fit

• Autorzy: Petrak S. , Mahnic M. , Rogale D.

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.5604/12303666.1167435

Warianty tytułu

PL

Wpływ postawy ciała mężczyzny i jego kształtu na projektowanie i dopasowanie ubioru

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

This paper presents a study of the impact of body posture and the presence of functional and structural body changes on garment fit. 3D scanning on a sample of 50 male test subjects was performed. Body posture indicators were determined on 3D body models and a statistical analysis of the results obtained was performed. Test subjects from the sample were divided into three groups according to body posture types. Three body models with different body dimensions and different physiological spine curvature were selected and imported into a 2D/3D CAD system for computer-based garment simulation. 3D simulation of a men’s jacket in the closest garment size was performed on selected body models. Garment fit was analysed on every simulated model and based on the analysis performed, garment pattern elements and measurements where it is necessary to enable modifications were determined. The most complex part of the research refers to the development of a parametric computer-based garment model which will be able to adjust according to anthropometric body measurements and body shapes with a different physiological spine curvature. Relationships between targeted body measurements and their impact on modifications of pattern segments were investigated as a starting point for defining mathematical expressions according to which values of measurement changes on the garment pattern will be calculated. A parametric garment model pattern which enables adjustments according to different body sizes and body postures types was developed. Verification of the method developed was performed using computer-based 3D simulations on 3D body models with prominent problems of body posture.

PL

W pracy zaprezentowano badania wpływu postawy ciała i występowania funkcjonalnych i strukturalnych zmian ciała na dopasowanie ubioru. Przeprowadzano skanowanie 3D próby składającej się z 50 męskich osobników. Określono indykatory postawy na modelach 3D i przeprowadzono statystyczną analizę. Uzyskane wyniki podzielono na trzy grupy biorąc pod uwagę typy postawy ciała. Uzyskano modele o różnych wymiarach i różnych fizjologicznych krzywiznach kręgosłupa i wprowadzono je w system 2D/3D CAD dla przeprowadzenia komputerowej symulacji ubrań. Przeprowadzono symulację 3D męskiej marynarki. Analizowano dopasowanie ubioru na każdym z symulowanych modeli i na tej podstawie określono elementy wzoru i wymiary. Określono również miejsca, które należy poddać modyfikacji. Najbardziej złożona część badań dotyczyła opracowania parametrycznego modelu ubioru, który umożliwiałby dostosowanie odpowiednie do antropometrycznych wymiarów ciała i różnych fizjologicznych krzywizn kręgosłupa. Opracowano parametryczny model ubioru, który umożliwia dostosowanie do różnych kształtów ciała i typów postawy. Weryfikacja opracowanej metody została przeprowadzona przy zastosowaniu symulacji komputerowej 3D.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

clothing; computer-based construction; 3D simulation; parametric cut pattern; body posture

PL

odzież; konstrukcje komputerowe; symulacje 3D; wzór parametrycznego cięcia; postawa ciała

• Wydawca: Sieć Badawcza Łukasiewicz - Łódzki Instytut Technologiczny
• Czasopismo: Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe
• Rocznik: 2015
• Tom: Vol. 23, no. 6 (114)
• Strony: 150--158
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 26 poz., rys., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Petrak S.

• Department of Clothing Technology, Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Zagreb, Croatia

autor

Mahnic M.

• Department of Clothing Technology, Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Zagreb, Croatia

autor

Rogale D.

• Department of Clothing Technology, Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Zagreb, Croatia

Bibliografia

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