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Development of the sandy coast : Hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions (on the example of the Eastern Gulf of Finland)

Identyfikatory
Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
Forecasting the coastal zone development under possible climatic changes and technogenic impact is an extremely important task. This forecasting is based on our understanding of the mechanism of the hydrodynamic processes impact on the coastal zone. The goal of this work is to describe the hydrodynamic conditions (currents, sea level, surface waves) of coastal waters and to assess the influence of hydrodynamic parameters on the general dynamics of the beach. The object of this study is a part of the southern coastal zone of the Gulf of Finland (Baltic Sea). The method of research is a full-scale experiment and mathematical modeling. The initial data for the analysis are climatic characteristics of the hydrodynamic regime of the sea (velocity and direction of currents, sea level, integral parameters of wind seas and swell), as well as interannual variations in the position of the coastline in the region of the Izhora village in the eastern part of the Gulf of Finland. Interannual variations in hydrodynamic parameters and volumes of bottom material transported under the influence of wind seas and swell were estimated. Main conclusion: swell waves determine the general background in the patterns of the bottom material transport, and the contribution of wind seas is in the formation of beach properties, namely, the accumulation or decrease of beach material.
Czasopismo
Rocznik
Strony
214--226
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 22 poz., mapka, rys., tab., wykr.
Twórcy
  • Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow, Russia
  • Russian Geological Research Institute (VSEGEI), St. Petersburg, Russia
  • Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow, Russia
  • Russian Geological Research Institute (VSEGEI), St. Petersburg, Russia
Bibliografia
  • [1] Ashton, A., Murray, A. B., Arnault, O., 2001. Formation of coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by a high-angle waves. Nature 414, 296-300.
  • [2] Ashton, A. D., Murray, A. B., 2006. High-angle wave instability and emergent shoreline shapes: 1. Modeling of sand waves, flying spits, and capes. J. Geophys. Res. 111. https://doi.org/10.1029/2005JF000422.
  • [3] Davidson-Arnott, R. G. D., van Heyningen, A. G, 2003. Morphology and sedimentology of longshore sandwaves, Long Point, Lake Erie, Canada. Sedimentology 50 (6), 1123-1137.
  • [4] DHI, 2007. MIKE 21FM. Coupled Model Module.
  • [5] Divinsky, B. V., Kosyan, R. D., 2019. The bottom sediment suspension under irregular surface wave. Oceanology 59-4, 533-543.
  • [6] Divinsky, B. V., Kosyan, R. D., 2020. Influence of the climatic variations in the wind waves parameters on the alongshore sediment transport. Oceanology 62 (2), 190-199. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceano.2019.11.002.
  • [7] Divinsky, B. V., Kosyan, R. D., 2018. Spectral structure of surface waves and its influence on sediment dynamics. Oceanologia 61 (1), 89-102. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceano.2018.07.003.
  • [8] Folk, R. L., Ward, W. C., 1957. Brazos River bar — a study in the significance of grain size parameters. J. Sediment. Petrol. 27, 3-26.
  • [9] Jonsson, J. G., 1966. On the existence of universal velocity distributions in an oscillatory, turbulent boundary layer. Report No. 12, Coast. Eng. Lab. & Hydraul. Lab., Tech. Univ. Denmark, Denmark, 2-10.
  • [10] Kosyan, R., 1985. Vertical distribution of suspended sediment concentrations seawards of the breaking zone. Coast. Eng. 9, 171-187.
  • [11] Larson, M., Hoan, L. X., Hanson, H., 2009. Direct formula to compute wave height and angle at incipient breaking. J. Waterw. Port C. 136 (2), 119-122.
  • [12] Leontiev, I. O., Ryabchuk, D. V., Sergeev, A. Yu., Sukhacheva, L. L., 2011. On the genesis of some forms of the bottom and coast relief of the eastern part of the Gulf of Finland. Oceanology 51 (4), 734-745.
  • [13] Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1970. Alongshore currents generated by obliquely incident sea waves. J. Geophys. Res. 75, 6788-6801.
  • [14] Romanovsky, S. I., 1988. Physical Sedimentology. Nedra, Leningrad, 240 pp. (in Russian).
  • [15] Ryabchuk, D., Zhamoida, V., Amantov, A., Sergeev, A., Gusentsova, T., Sorokin, P., Kulkova, M., Gerasimov, D., 2016. Development of the coastal systems of the easternmost Gulf of Finland, and their links with Neolithic-Bronze and Iron Age settlements. In: Harff, J., Bailey, G., Luth, F. (Eds.), Geology and Archaeology: Submerged Landscapes of the Continental Shelf. Geol. Soc. Sp. Publ., Vol. 41, 51-76.
  • [16] Ryabchuk, D., Leont’yev, I., Sergeev, A., Nesterova, E., Sukhacheva, L., Zhamoida, V., 2011. The morphology of sand spits and the genesis of long-shore sand waves on the coast of the eastern Gulf of Finland. Baltica 24 (1), 13-24.
  • [17] Sergeev, A., Ryabchuk, D., Zhamoida, V., Leont’yev, I., Kolesov, A., Kovaleva, O., Orviku, K., 2018. Coastal dynamics of the eastern Gulf of Finland, the Baltic Sea: toward a quantitative assessment. Baltica 31 (1), 49-62. https://doi.org/10.5200/baltica.2018.31.05.
  • [18] Sergeev, A. Yu., Ryabchuk, D. V., Zhamoyda, V. A., Neevin, I. A., Dron, O. V., 2013. Holocene history of the formation of a lithomorphodynamic anomaly in the southern coastal zone of the Gulf of Finland (region of the Bolshaya Izhora village). Reg. Geol. Metallog. 57, 6-16.
  • [19] Spiridonov, M. A., Ryabchuk, D. V., Orvik, K. K., Sukhacheva, L. L., Nesterova, E. N., Zhamoyda, V. A., 2010. Changes in the coastal zone of the eastern part of the Gulf of Finland under the influence of natural and anthropogenic factors. Reg. Geol. Metallog. 41, 107-118.
  • [20] Thevenot, M. M., Kraus, N. C., 1995. Longshore sand waves at Southampton Beach, New York: observation and numerical simulation of their movement. Mar. Geol. 126, 249-269.
  • [21] Walton, T., 2002. Coastal Sediment Processes, Chapter III-6. In: Coastal Engineering Manual, Engineer Manual 1110-2-1100. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Publ., Washington, DC, 72 pp.
  • [22] Zou, S., Dalrymple, R., Asce, F., Rogers, B., 2005. Smoothed particle hydrodynamics simulation on sediment suspension under breaking waves. In: Ocean waves measurement and analysis, 5th Int. Symp. Waves — 2005, Madrid, Spain, 186-192.
Uwagi
Opracowanie rekordu ze środków MNiSW, umowa Nr 461252 w ramach programu "Społeczna odpowiedzialność nauki" - moduł: Popularyzacja nauki i promocja sportu (2021).
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-37f7fdce-aa01-4ee0-ae24-3d43dd02d079
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