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Tytuł artykułu

Development of a Three Dimensional Approach to Acquire a Drape Contour and Studies on Influential Factors

Treść / Zawartość
Identyfikatory
Warianty tytułu
PL
Opracowanie i badanie trójwymiarowego systemu określania konturu układalności płaskich wyrobów włókienniczych
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
Drape is one of the important factors influencing the aesthetics and functionality of fabrics. In this paper, the instrument used for measuring fabric drape was slightly modified from the Cusick Drapemeter(DM). Instead of tracing / digitally capturing the shadow of the drape profile, the xyz coordinate values at various locations were measured using the specially designed scale in the DM and analysed using surfer software. It generates the contour lines, vector lines, 3D profile, volume, area and other information like a variogram etc. The area was used to calculate the drape coefficient of fabrics, which was compared with the area generated by the image processing method. Studies with polyester cotton fabrics show that with different seam types and patterns (combinations of stitch direction and stitch type) the image processing method is insensitive in showing the difference due to the seam factor.
PL
Układalność jest ważnym czynnikiem wpływającym na estetykę i funkcjonalność płaskich wyrobów włókienniczych. W badaniach zastosowano zmodyfikowany system Cusick Drapemeter. Zamiast wyznaczania cienia układanego materiału, wyznaczano parametry xyz przy różnych ułożeniach za pomocą specjalnie zaprojektowanej skali i analizowano stosując program komputerowy Surfer. Program ten generuje linie konturu, wektory, profil 3D, objętość, powierzchnie itp. Uzyskana powierzchnia była wykorzystywana dla obliczenia współczynnika układalności, gdy porównywano z powierzchnią generowaną za pomocą metody obróbki obrazu. Możliwość uzyskania wpływu różnego rodzaju szwów wykonanych na danym materiale jest istotną zaletą prezentowanej metody w stosunku do innych tradycyjnych metod oceny układalności.
Rocznik
Strony
137--143
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 46 poz., rys., tab.
Twórcy
autor
  • Department of Textile Technology, KSR College of Technology, Tamilnadu, India
  • Department of Textile Technology, Govt. SKSJT. Institute, Karnataka, India
Bibliografia
  • 1. Cusick GE. The measurement of fabric drape. Journal of Textile Institute 1968; 59: 253-260.
  • 2. Collier BJ, Collier JR, Scarberry H, Swearingen A. Development of digital drape tester. ACPTC Combined Proceedings, 1988: 35.
  • 3. Orzada BT, Moore MA, Collier BJ, Yan Chen J. Effect of laundering on fabric drape, bending and shear. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2009; 21, 1: 44-55.
  • 4. Kun-Hsieh Tsai, Ming-Chin Tsai, PinNing Wang, Tien-Wei Shyr. New approach to directly acquiring the drape contours of various fabrics. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2009; 17, 3(74): 54-59.
  • 5. Zunic Lojen D, Jevsnik S. Some aspects of fabric drape. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2007; 15, 4(63): 39-45.
  • 6. Fatahi I, Alamdar Yazdi A. Assessment of the relationship between air permeability of woven fabrics and its mechanical properties. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2010; 18, 6(83): 68-71.
  • 7. Ghane M, Saghafi R, Zerrebini M, Semani D. Evaluation of bending modulus of needle-punched fabrics using two simply supported beam method. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2011; 19, 4(87): 89-93.
  • 8. Shyr TW, Wang PN, Cheng KB. A Comparison of the key parameters affecting the dynamic and static drape co-efficient of natural fibre woven fabrics by a newly devised dynamic drape automatic measuring system. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2007; 15, 3(62): 81-86.
  • 9. Hasani H. Novel method to evaluate the low-stress shearing behavior of knitted fabrics. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2010; 18, 2(79): 70-72.
  • 10. Ozge Tokmak, Omer Berk Berkalp, Jelka Gersak. Investigation of the mechanics and performance of woven fabrics using objective evaluation techniques. Part 1 The relationship between FAST, KES-F and Cusick’s drape meter parameters. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2010; 18, 2(79): 55-59.
  • 11. Ozcelik G, Supuren G, Gulumser T, Tarakcioglu I. A study on subjective and objective evaluation of the handle prop erties of shirt fabrics. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2008; 16, 3(68): 56-62.
  • 12. Yang M, Matsudaria M. Measurement of drape coefficients of fabrics and description of those hanging shapes. Part 6: Evaluation of dynamic drape behavior of fabrics in swinging motion. Journal of Textile Machinery Society of Japan 2001; 54, 3: T57-T64.
  • 13. Frydrych I, Dziworska G, Cieslinska A. Mechanical fabric properties influencing the drape and handle. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2000; 12, 3: 171-183.
  • 14. Sidabraite V, Masteikaite V. A preliminary study for evaluation of skirt asymmetric drape. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2002; 14, 5: 286-298.
  • 15. Kaushal Raj Sharma, Behera BK. Effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of suiting fabrics. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2005; 17, 2: 75-90.
  • 16. Stylios GK, Powell NJ. Engineering the drapability of textile fabric. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2003; 15, 3/4: 211-217.
  • 17. Kaliappa Krishnaraj, Palanisamy Thanikaiselvan, Kavati Phebeaardn, Bangaru Chandrasekaran. Effect of sewing on the drape of goat suede apparel leathers. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2010; 22, 5: 358-373.
  • 18. http://www.csupomona.edu/~raheja/ publications/ieee_ijcnn_2004.pdf.
  • 19. http://old.bmf.hu/journal/Kokas-Palicska_Szucs_Borka_15.pdf.
  • 20. http://internet.ktu.lt/lt/mokslas/zurnalai/medz/pdf/medz0-72/24%20 Sidabraites%60Masteikaites%20 %28111-115%29.pdf.
  • 21. www.rjta.org/download. php?paper=1&paper_id=02_2_06.
  • 22. Shy TW, Wang PN, Lin JY. Subjective and Objective Evaluation Methods to determine the Peak-trough Threshold of the Drape Fabric Node. Textile Research Journal 2009; 79(13): 1223- 1233.
  • 23. Gaucher ML, Kig MW, Johnston B. Predicting the Drape Coefficient of Knitted Fabrics. Textile Research Journal 1983; May: 297-303.
  • 24. Fischer P, Krzywinski S, Rodel H, Schlenk A, Ulbricht V. Simulating the Drape Behavior of Fabrics. Textile Research Journal 1999; 69(5): 331-334.
  • 25. Jeong YJ, Phillips DG. Effect of Pressure Decatizing on Fabric Drape. Textile Research Journal 2001; 71(5): 415-419.
  • 26. Jinlian Hu, Siuping Chung. Drape Behavior of Woven Fabrics with Seams. Textile Research Journal 1998; 68(12): 913-919.
  • 27. Suda Noriko, Nagasaka Tsune. Dependency of Various Sewing Conditions on the Bending Property of Seams. Report of Polymeric Materials Research Institute 1984; 142: 47-55.
  • 28. Chiyomi Mizutani, Toshihiko Amano, Yoshiyuki Sakaguchi. A New Apparatus for the Study of Fabric Drape. Textile Research Journal 2005; 75(1): 81-87.
  • 29. Sun MN. A New Tester and Method for Measuring Fabric Stiffness. Textile Research Journal 2008; 78(9): 761-770.
  • 30. Jinlian Hu, Yuk-Fung Chan. Effect of mechanical properties on drape. Textile Research Journal 1998; 68(1): 57-64.
  • 31. Morooka H, Niwa M. Relation between Drape Coefficients and Mechanical Properties of Fabrics. Journal of Textile Machin. Soc, Jpn. 1976; 22(3): 67-73.
  • 32. Collier JR. Measurement of Fabric Drape and its Relation to Fabric Mechanical Properties and Subjective Evaluation. Clothing Textiles Journal 1991: 46-52.
  • 33. Lo WM, Hu JL, Li LK. Modelling a Fabric Drape Profile. Textile Research Journal 2002; 72(5): 454-463.
  • 34. Hearle JWS, Amirbayat J. Analysis of Drape by Means of Dimensionless Groups. Textile Research Journal 1986; 56: 727-733.
  • 35. Fan J, Newton E, Au R. Predicting Garment Drape with a Fuzzy-Neural Network. Textile Research Journal 2001; 71(7): 605-608.
  • 36. Michie RIC, Stevenson PJ. Non woven Fabric Studies Part VII: The Effect of Stretching on the Mechanical Properties of Non woven fabrics. Textile Research Journal 1996: 494-501.
  • 37. Bijian CN, Muthu Govindaraj. Physically Based Model of Fabric Drape Using Flexible Shell Theory. Textile Research Journal 1995; 65(6): 324-330.
  • 38. Collier JR, Collier BJ, O’Toole G, Sargand SM. Drape Prediction by means of Finite Element Analysis. Journal of Textile Institute 1991; 82(1): 96-107.
  • 39. Stump DM, Fraser WB. A Simplified Model of Fabric Drape Based on Ring Theory, Textile Research Journal, 1996; 66(8): 506-514.
  • 40. Narahari Kenkare, Traci May-Plumlee. Evaluation of drape characteristics in fabrics. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2005; 17, 2: 109-123.
  • 41. Li CY, Zhang XT. Research and comparison of numerical simulation of draping and buckling about woven fabric and knitted fabric. IEEE 2008; 1094-1097.
  • 42. Collier BJ, Paulins VA, Collier JR. Effects of Interfacing Type on Shear And Drape Behavior of Apparel Fabrics. Clothing and Textile Research Journal 1989; 7(3): 51-56.
  • 43. Lai SS. Using drape form to establish discriminant models of fabric characteristics. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research 2004; 29: 143-148.
  • 44. Thilagavathi G, Natarajan V. Development of a method for measurement of fabric three-dimensional drape and studies on influencing factors. Indian Joumal of Fibre & Textile Research 2003; 28: 41-49.
  • 45. Behera K, Kumar Pattanayak A. Measurement and modeling of drape using digital image processing. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research 2008; 33: 230-238.
  • 46. Filgueiras A, Fangueiro R, Soutinho F. Drape behavior of functional knitted fabrics for sport clothing. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research 2009; 34: 64-68.
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-27b30b57-0bf3-4a15-830f-0bdca167228b
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