Potentialities of Reducing Textile Waste in the Manufacturing of Garments from Striped Fabrics

• Autorzy: Vilumsone-Nemes Ineta , Kaplan Volkan , Belakova Dana

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.5604/01.3001.0014.3799

Warianty tytułu

PL

Możliwosci zmniejszenia ilości odpadów tekstylnych w produkcji odzieży z tkanin w paski

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

Certain material losses are still tolerated in traditional garment manufacturing process. Only 80% of textile materials purchased by industry companies are used for their main purpose. The other 20% lost in garment cutting process are landfilled, incinerated, reused or recycled. Further technical progress is not able to minimise fabric waste significantly. Possibilities to reduce fabric waste have to be found in the garment designing and development process. Styles from cross directionally striped fabrics have raised material losses because of their specific design and fabric pattern. The 1^st experiment with a striped T-shirt showed that fabric waste could be critical due to disconformities of the style design with the fabric pattern. The 2^nd experiment showed that it is possible to reduce fabric waste by conforming the length of the style with the fabric pattern. Length tolerance – acceptable slight variations in the length of the style which does not change the design and visual perception of the garment style should be determined by designers and used in industry processing of manufacturing orders. The authors of the article developed methodology to perform the work process in an automated way. Certain manipulations of the design of a garment style directly in its manufacturing process have never been done before, however they could be very effective in producing medium and large manufacturing orders as they would help to reduce post-industrial fabric waste, material consumption, as well as the product cost.

PL

Pewne straty materiałowe są nadal tolerowane w tradycyjnych procesach produkcji odzieży. Jedynie 80% materiałów włókienniczych kupowanych przez firmy przemysłowe jest wykorzystywane do ich głównego celu. Pozostałe 20% utracone w procesie cięcia odzieży trafia na wysypisko, jest spalane, lub ponownie wykorzystywane i poddawane recyklingowi. Dalszy postęp techniczny nie jest w stanie znacząco zminimalizować marnotrawstwa tkaniny. Możliwości ograniczenia marnotrawstwa tkanin należy znaleźć w procesie projektowania i rozwoju odzieży. Projektowanie odzieży z tkanin w poprzeczne prążki powoduje wzrost strat materiałowych ze względu na specyficzny projekt wyrobów i wzór tkaniny. Pierwszy eksperyment z koszulką w paski pokazał, że marnotrawstwo tkaniny może powstać ze względu na niezgodności projektu z wzorem tkaniny. Drugi eksperyment pokazał, że można zmniejszyć marnotrawstwo tkaniny, dopasowując fason do wzoru tkaniny. Tolerancja długości – dopuszczalne niewielkie różnice w długości kroju, które nie zmieniają projektu i wizualnej percepcji stylu ubioru, powinny być określone przez projektantów i stosowane w przemyśle przy realizacji zleceń produkcyjnych. Autorzy artykułu opracowali metodologię prowadzenia procesu pracy w sposób zautomatyzowany. Pewne manipulacje przy projektowaniu stylu ubioru bezpośrednio w procesie produkcyjnym nigdy wcześniej nie były wykonywane, jednak mogą być bardzo skuteczne w produkcji średnich i dużych zamówień produkcyjnych, ponieważ pomogłyby zmniejszyć ilość poprzemysłowych odpadów tkanin, zużycia materiałów, a także obniżyć koszt produktu.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

material waste; fabric consumption; product cost; striped fabric; sectional marker; pattern matching

PL

odpad tekstylny; zużycie tkaniny; koszty produktu; tkanina w paski; znaczniki przekrojowe; dopasowanie do wzorca

• Wydawca: Sieć Badawcza Łukasiewicz - Łódzki Instytut Technologiczny
• Czasopismo: Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe
• Rocznik: 2020
• Tom: Vol. 28, no. 6 (144)
• Strony: 58--63
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 38 poz., rys., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Vilumsone-Nemes Ineta

• University of Novi Sad, Technical Faculty “Mihajlo Pupin”, Department of Textile Sciences and Clothing Design, Serbia

autor

Kaplan Volkan

• Pamukkal University, Faculty of Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering, Turkey

autor

Belakova Dana

• Riga Technical University, Institute of Design Technologies, Faculty of Materials Science and Applied Chemistry, Kipsalas 6, Riga, Latvia

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