Double-layer Fabrics with Folk Motives. Experimental and Theoretical Study of their Characteristics

• Autorzy: Kumpikaitė E. , Kot L. , Tautkutė-Stankuvienė I.

Identyfikatory

DOI

10.5604/12303666.1221743

Warianty tytułu

PL

Teoretyczne i eksperymentalne studium charakterystyk tkanin dwuwarstwowych z motywami ludowymi

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

Nowadays authentic textile motifs are becoming very popular. The latest fashion trends show that the expressed relief and texture of fabrics are common. Combining these two tendencies, 8 fabrics of two-layer spatial structure were woven. It was established that the area density increases after finishing, the breaking force decreases, and the elongation at break increases. The abrasion resistance depends on the fabric structure. If fabric is woven with part A, the abrasion resistance increases after finishing, and if it is woven without part A, the abrasion resistance decreases. Theoretical calculation of area density of two-layer fabrics is presented. The formula suggested is accurate because the error is low.

PL

Współcześnie autentyczne dwuwarstwowe tkaniny z motywami ludowymi stają się bardzo popularne. Ostatnie trendy mody wskazują, że uwidocznione struktura i tekstura są powszechne. Dla przeprowadzenia badań wyprodukowano osiem tkanin dwuwarstwowych. Stwierdzono, że gęstość powierzchniowa tkania wzrasta po wykończeniu, podczas gdy siła zrywająca maleje, a wydłużenie przy zerwaniu wzrasta. Odporność na ścieranie uzależniona jest od struktury tkaniny. Przeprowadzono analizę uzyskanych wyników i korelacji z badaną strukturą tkanin.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

double-layer fabrics; Lithuanian folk motives; fabric structure design

PL

tkaniny dwuwarstwowe; litewskie motywy ludowe; struktura tkanin; tekstura tkanin

• Wydawca: Sieć Badawcza Łukasiewicz - Łódzki Instytut Technologiczny
• Czasopismo: Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe
• Rocznik: 2016
• Tom: Vol. 24, no. 6 (120)
• Strony: 100--108
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 20 poz., rys., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Kumpikaitė E.

• Kaunas University of Technology, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering and Design, Department of Materials Engineering, Studentų str. 56, LT-51424 Kaunas, Lithuania

autor

Kot L.

• Kaunas University of Technology, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering and Design, Department of Materials Engineering, Studentų str. 56, LT-51424 Kaunas, Lithuania

autor

Tautkutė-Stankuvienė I.

• Join-Stock Company “Klasikinė tekstilė”, Brastos str. 9, LT-47184 Kaunas, Lithuania

Bibliografia

• 1. Kumpikaitė E and Nėnienė I. Lithuanian folk skirts. Part 1: Analysis of fabric pattern. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2008; 16, 2(67): 79-83.
• 2. Kumpikaitė E and Nėnienė I. Lithuanian folk skirts. Part II: Analysis of fabric weaves. Fibres and textiles in Eastern Europe 2008; 16, 3(68): 79-82.
• 3. Kumpikaitė E and Kot L. Weaves and colours of Lithuanian folk skirts fabrics. Materials science Medžiagotyra 2013; 19, 3: 314-318.
• 4. Kumpikaitė E and Kot L. Patterned woven fabrics in Lithuanian folk skirts. Materials science Medžiagotyra 2014; 20, 2: 205-209.
• 5. Nėnienė I. Zanavykai Textile Traditions. 19th Century – Beginning of the 21st Century. Sientific monograph. Kaunas. – Technologija. 2010. p. 432. [In Lithuanian].
• 6. Nėnienė I, Kumpikaitė E and Ragaišienė A. The Key of Weaving. The Melania Gukovska Collection: Ethnographic Source and Its Investigations: Scientific monograph. Kaunas: Nacionalinis M. K. Čiurlionio dailės muziejus, KTU, 2013. p. 224. [In Lithuanian].
• 7. Kumpikaitė E, Ragaišienė A, Rukuižienė Ž, Kot L and Nenartavičiūtė E. Checked and striped Lithuanian home textile folk fabrics. In: AUTEX 2013: proceedings of the 13th AUTEX World Textile Conference, 22-24 May, 2013, Dresden, Germany. Institute of Textile Machinery and high performance material technology, Technische Universität Dresden. Dresden: ITM, 2013, p. [1-5].
• 8. Ragaišienė A, Kumpikaitė E and Rukuižienė Ž. Preservation of Lithuanian folk identity in ethnographic fabrics. In: AUTEX 2014: proceedings of the 14th AUTEX world textile conference, 26-28 May, 2014, Bursa, Turkey / Uludag University. Bursa: Uludag University, 2014, p. [1-5].
• 9. Kot L, Kumpikaitė E and Nenartavičiūtė E. The adaptation of the Lithuanian folk home textile fabrics in the contemporary ecological way of life. In: AUTEX 2014: proceedings of the 14th AUTEX world textile conference, 26-28 May, 2014, Bursa, Turkey, Uludag University. Bursa: Uludag University, 2014, p. [1-6].
• 10. Kot L and Kumpikaitė E. Ornamentation of patterned in Lithuanian folk bedspreads. In: ICNF 2015 : proceedings of the 2nd international conference on natural fibers „From nature to market”, 27-29 April, 2015, Azores, Portugal. Azores: Universidade do Minho, 2015, p. 1-5.
• 11. Nėnienė I, Ragaišienė A and Kumpikaitė E. Traditions and innovations of yarns in Lithuanian folk fabrics (19th century). Materials science Medžiagotyra 2013; 19, 2: 184-189.
• 12. Cybulska M. Understanding Textiles – from Artist to Spectator. Fibres and textiles in Eastern Europe 2015; 23, 3(111): 133-140.
• 13. Priberga D. Classification of Laces Produced and Used in Latvia in Different Ages. Material Science. Textile and Clothing Technology 2008, 3: 94-102.
• 14. Jansone A, Zommere G and Kukle S. Composition Principles of Zemgale National Costume Bronze Sheet Metal Crowns. Material Science. Textile and Clothing Technology 2013; 8: 20-27.
• 15. Woods H J. The Geometrical Basis of Pattern Design. Part III: Geometrical Symmetry in Plane Patterns. The Journal of the Textile Institute 1935, 26: T341-T357.
• 16. Hann M A. Symmetry in Regular Repeating Patterns: Case Studies from Various Cultural Settings. The Journal of the Textile Institute 1992; 4 (83): 579-589.
• 17. Neverauskienė D, Kazlauskienė I, Milašius V. The Symmetry Peculiarities of Ornamentation of National Lithuanian Woven Fabrics. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2001; 9, 1(32): 63-67.
• 18. Katunskis J, Milašius V and Taylor D. Software for Creation of a Database of Ornamentation of National Woven Fabrics. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2004; 12, 4(48): 43-46.
• 19. Milašius V, Neverauskienė D, Katunskis J and Kazlauskienė I. The Mathematical Basis of Ornamentation of Patterned Woven Fabrics. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2002, 10, 4 (39): 34-39.
• 20. Zdanavičiūtė I, Milašius V and Katunskis J. The Peculiarities of the Ornamentation of Lithuanian Traditional Woven Textiles. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe 2006, 14, 2 (56): 37-40.

Uwagi

Opracowanie ze środków MNiSW w ramach umowy 812/P-DUN/2016 na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (zadania 2017).