Czasopismo
Tytuł artykułu
Autorzy
Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji
Abstrakty
Purpose. The purpose of the study was to reveal a possible relationship between maximal gripping force and climbing ability as well as to compare a decrease in handgrip force caused by training session in male and female climbers. Basic procedures. Seventy-four climbers (49 males and 25 females) took part in a climbing session on artificial wall. Grip force of both hands was measured twice - before and after the training session. Main findings. The subjects self-reported their climbing abilities in a quantitative Australian scale. In both groups, climbing ability correlated with handgrip force related to body mass. Relative force significantly decreased (F1,72 = 53.2, p < 0.001) post-exercise from 6.83 ± 1.16 to 5.96 ± 1.18 N/kg in males and from 5.43 ± 0.91 to 4.94 ± 0.84 N/kg in females. The decrease was significantly greater in male climbers (F1,72 = 4.11, p < 0.05). Conclusions. Less decrease in strength postclimbing in female can positively affect their climbing ability and compensate lower relative handgrip strength. Women should draw more attention to maximal strength training while men to climbing technique and endurance.
Czasopismo
Rocznik
Tom
Numer
Strony
121-123
Opis fizyczny
Daty
wydano
2008-12-01
online
2009-01-16
Twórcy
autor
autor
- Józef Piłsudski University of Physical Education, Warsaw, Poland
Bibliografia
- Sheel, A. W., Physiology of sport rock climbing. Br J Sports Med, 2004, 38(3), 355-359. DOI: 10.1136/bjsm.2003.008169.[Crossref]
- Mermier, C. M., Janot, J. M., Parker, D. L., Swan, J. G., Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. Br J Sports Med, 2000, 34(5), 359-365. DOI: 10.1136/bjsm.34.5.359.[Crossref]
- Schweizer, A., Biomechanical properties of the crimp position in rock climbers. J Biomech, 2001, 34(2), 217-223. DOI: 10.1016/S0021-9290(00)00184-6.[Crossref][PubMed]
- Morrison, A. B., Schöffl, V. R., Physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers. Br J Sports Med, 2007, 41(12), 852-861. DOI: 10.1136/bjsm.2007.034827.[Crossref]
- Watts, P. B., Physiology of difficult rock climbing. Eur J Appl Physiol, 2004, 91(4), 361-372. DOI: 10.1007/s00421-003-1036-7.[PubMed][Crossref]
- Schöffl, V. R., Klee, S., Strecker, W., Evaluation of physiological standard pressures of the forearm flexor muscles during sport specific ergometry in sport climbers. Br J Sports Med, 2004, 38(4) 422-425. DOI: 10.1136/bjsm.2002.003996.[Crossref]
- Watts, P. B., Joubert, L. M., Lish, A. K., Mast, J. D., Wilkins, B., Anthropometry of young competitive sport rock climbers. Br J Sports Med, 2003, 37(5), 420-424. DOI: 10.1136/bjsm.37.5.420.[Crossref]
- Watts, P. B., Newbury, V., Sulentic, J., Acute changes in handgrip strength, endurance, and blood lactate with sustained sport rock climbing. J Sports Med Phys Fitness, 1996, 36, 255-260.
- Hörst, E. J., Training for climbing. Globe Pequot Press, Guilford 2003.
- Logan, A. J., Makwana, N., Mason, G., Dias, J., Acute hand and wrist injuries in experienced rock. Br J Sports Med, 2004, 38(5), 545-548. DOI: 10.1136/bjsm.2002.003558.[Crossref]
- Bannister, P., Foster, P., Upper limb injuries associated with rock climbing. Br J Sports Med, 1986, 20(2), 55.
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikatory
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.-psjd-doi-10_2478_v10038-008-0015-6