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PL
Weryfikacja prawnie dopuszczalnych zawartości formaldehydu w materiałach tekstylnych i skórzanych obecnych na światowym rynku wymaga dobrze opracowanych i zwalidowanych metod analitycznych, najlepiej ujętych w normach międzynarodowych. W tej pracy zaprezentowano metody oznaczania formaldehydu wolnego w środkach pomocniczych dla garbarstwa oraz dwóch zdefiniowanych operacyjnie form formaldehydu w próbkach artykułów włókienniczych i skórzanych. Oznaczanie formadehydu ekstrahowalnego jest kluczowe dla zapewniania bezpieczeństwa kontaktu ze skórą użytkownika, natomiast oznaczanie formaldehydu emitowalnego jest szczególnie ważne dla oceny zagrożenia rakotwórczego na drodze inhalacyjnej. Popularyzacja oraz dalsze rozpowszechnienie znormalizowanych procedur analitycznych powinno przyczynić się do likwidacji luki informacyjnej dotyczącej zawartości formaldehydu w artykułach włókienniczych i skórzanych dostępnych na krajowym rynku i tym samym poprawy poczucia bezpieczeństwa chemicznego konsumentów.
EN
Verification of legally permissible formaldehyde levels in textile and leather products available on the global market requires well-developed and validated analytical methods, preferably included in international standards. This paper presents methods for determining free formaldehyde in tanning auxiliaries and two operationally defined forms of formaldehyde in samples of textile and leather articles. The determination of extractable formaldehyde is crucial for ensuring the safety in contact with the user’s skin, while the determination of emittable formaldehyde is particularly important for assessing the carcinogenic risk by inhalation. The promotion and further dissemination of the standardised analytical procedures should help to close the information gap regarding the formaldehyde content in textile and leather articles available on the domestic market, thereby improving consumers’ sense of chemical safety.
PL
Dla ochrony konsumentów przed ekspozycją na metale ciężkie obecne w wyrobach tekstylnych i skórzanych wprowadzono szereg regulacji prawnych. W prestiżowych eko-certyfikatach zostały określone progowe zawartości przynajmniej najbardziej toksycznych metali ciężkich (As, Cd, Hg i Pb). Jednakże nawet najlepiej sformułowane regulacje prawne nie mogą zapewnić pełnej ochrony użytkowników tych artykułów. Niezbędna jest kontrola analityczna, dysponująca zestawem dobrze opracowanych i zwalidowanych procedur analitycznych wykorzystujących współczesne techniki instrumentalne. Takie warunki spełniają procedury analityczne ujęte w normach, najlepiej międzynarodowych lub europejskich (ISO i EN). W tej pracy omówiono procedury analityczne opisane w normach ISO oraz EN i wdrożonych do zbioru Polskich Norm. Aby przybliżyć czytelnikom tę tematykę, omówienie norm badań poprzedzono krótką charakterystyką wykorzystywanych technik instrumentalnych. Zaprezentowane postępowania analityczne umożliwiają oznaczanie całkowitej zawartości metali ciężkich oraz oznaczanie ich frakcji biodostępnej.
EN
To protect consumers from exposure to heavy metals present in textile and leather products, many legal regulations have been introduced. Prestigious eco-certificates specify the threshold levels for at least the most toxic heavy metals (As, Cd, Hg and Pb). However, even the best-formulated legal regulations cannot provide full protection for users of these articles. Analytical control with a set of well-developed and validated analytical procedures using modern instrumental techniques is essential. Such conditions are met by standardized analytical procedures preferably published in ISO and EN standards. This paper discusses analytical procedures described in ISO and EN standards and implemented in the set of Polish Standards. To better familiarize readers with this topic, the discussion was preceded by a brief description of the instrumental techniques used. The presented analytical procedures make it possible to determine the total content of heavy metals and their bioaccessible fraction.
3
Content available Textronic mat with heating function
EN
Relatively recently, in the 1980s, a new generation of textiles emerged when work began on smart materials, resulting in the development of textronics. Textronics is widely used in medicine and health care. This paper presents research and construction work related to the development of a prototype mat with a heating function. Heating is realized by means of electroconductive threads and the use of a knitted spacer as a substrate allows the heating function to operate only under pressure.
PL
Stosunkowo niedawno, w latach 80-tych, pojawiła się nowa generacja tekstyliów, kiedy rozpoczęto prace nad inteligentnymi materiałami, co doprowadziło do rozwoju tekstroniki. Tekstronika jest szeroko stosowana w medycynie i opiece zdrowotnej. W artykule przedstawiono prace badawcze i konstrukcyjne związane z opracowaniem prototypu maty z funkcją ogrzewania. Ogrzewanie jest realizowane za pomocą nici elektroprzewodzących, a zastosowanie dzianej przekładki jako podłoża pozwala na działanie funkcji ogrzewania tylko pod ciśnieniem.
PL
Stosunkowo niedawno, w latach 80-tych, pojawiła się nowa generacja tekstyliów, łączonych z inteligentnymi materiałami, co doprowadziło do rozwoju tekstroniki. Tekstronika jest szeroko stosowana w medycynie i opiece zdrowotnej. W artykule przedstawiono prace badawcze i konstrukcyjne związane z opracowaniem prototypu maty z funkcją ogrzewania. Ogrzewanie jest realizowane za pomocą nici elektroprzewodzących, a zastosowanie dzianej przekładki jako podłoża pozwala na działanie funkcji ogrzewania tylko pod ciśnieniem.
EN
Relatively recently, in the 1980s, a new generation of textiles emerged when work began on smart materials, resulting in the development of textronics. Textronics is widely used in medicine and health care. This paper presents research and construction work related to the development of a prototype mat with a heating function. Heating is realized by means of electroconductive threads and the use of a knitted spacer as a substrate allows the heating function to operate only under pressure.
EN
The news predicted that all areas would have experienced significant disruptions from the start of the COVID-19 health crisis. At the economic scale of manufacturing companies, supply chains have been much more disrupted, which has often been justified by delays in delivery schedules. The results were considered to be harmful and had a negative influence on productive systems. By choosing the textile sector, our study began with an analysis of the information and communication systems of a limited number of companies; from the results of this analysis, we concluded that the fragility of these systems was the reason for the inabilities of certain supply chains to maintain their stability during the crisis. So, the solution to remedy this type of problem was to propose an e-sourcing platform that connects all of the companies that are active in this sector and those who are in direct contact with them to create a web network where the procurement procedures are similar – starting with the search for suppliers, and going as far as signing contracts online with a view of this research.
PL
W publikacji omówiono przykłady użycia bliskiej podczerwieni do odczytywania zakrytych lub mało widocznych tekstów, notatek wykonanych przy użyciu ołówków grafitowych w badaniach konserwatorskich. Osiągnięcie zadowalających efektów uczytelnienia jest możliwe ze względu na obecność w ich składzie chemicznym węgla pierwiastkowego. Zagadnienia zilustrowano przykładami zapisków wykonanych na różnych podłożach celulozowych. Wykazano również przydatność promieniowania podczerwonego do przenikania przez warstwy barwników niebieskich zasłaniających teksty znajdujące się pod nimi.
EN
The publication discusses examples of the use of near-infrared radiation to read covered or poorly visible texts, notes made with graphite pencils in conservation research. Achieving satisfactory results is possible due to the presence of elemental carbon occuring as their basic ingredient. The issues are illustrated with examples of notes found on various cellulose substrates. The suitability of infrared radiation to penetrate the layers of blue dyes obscuring the texts below is also demonstrated.
EN
The aim of the article is to examine how the textile industry in the Łódź Voivodeship has evolved in the context of building smart regional specialisations. The ideas underlying the concept of smart regional specialisation in order to use this foundation to outline the trends in the development and transformation of the textile industry in Central and Eastern European countries are described. The transformation of the innovative capacity of this industry in the Łódź region is shown. The research used an analysis of existing materials, statistical methods and LQ location indicators. Specific territorial capital accumulated for over two centuries and encapsulated in tradition, knowledge, skills, and economic relations in the Łódź region has provided a unique economic potential for the development of the textile industry. The period of rapid transformation was followed by stabilisation and the reconstruction of its potential and building smart specialisation, which will become the impetus for regional competitiveness.
EN
Vigorously developing new textile material technology is critical to improving the textile industry’s high-tech level , upgrading its transformation , promoting high-quality development of the real economy, and enhancing the country’s overall power. This paper analyzes patent technology to explore new textile material technology layout characteristics and evolution trends for the strategic basis of industrial transformation and development on a global scale. The research took new textile material technology patents as the research object, constructed 76,373 invention application patent data pools in China, Europe, Japan, South Korea, and the United States, and analysed new textile material technology structural characteristics and their evolution trend from three aspects of patent structure, layout characteristics and evolutions. As a result, it was found that the development plans and target focuses of textile new material technology vary from country to country. Global enterprises in garments, advanced material production, and chemical materials, represented by DuPont, 3M, and Dow Global Technologies, provide an important guarantee for the United States in maintaining its global leadership position in the development of the new textile material industry. Japan pays more attention to the practicality of new materials and considers the coordinated development of the environment and resources. Europe and South Korea focus on the construction of industrial clusters with their own characteristics, establish and improve the industrial standardization system based on core technology and core manufacturing, and maintain global competitiveness in textile new material technology. After 2009, the number of patent applications for new textile material technology in China exceeded that of Europe, the United States, Japan, and South Korea, becoming a global patent power. However, there is still a huge gap between the quality of patents and the layout of new cutting-edge materials in China and those in developed countries such as the United States and Japan, which is the main problem that needs to be solved urgently in the future innovation and development of China’s textile industry, technology planning and layout.
9
Content available remote Wearable Textile Antenna for Glucose Level Monitoring
EN
Wearable antennas are becoming increasingly popular as a result of their wide range of applications, including communication, health parameter monitoring, and so on. If the wearable antenna is built of textile material, it is highly comfortable to wear and has numerous benefits, such as light weight, compact size, and low cost. A 1.3 GHz microstrip antenna made from jeans substrate is presented in this work. For antenna conducting patch and ground plane copper material is used. The electromagnetic properties of the jean’s substrate are dielectric constant ℇr = 1.7 and loss tangent tan δ = 0.01. In this work the main purpose or application of this antenna is to observe three levels of glucose, i.e., hypoglycemia, hyperglycemia, and normal glucose. The antenna is placed over the arm in the first scenario, while the finger is placed over the antenna patch in the second case. When the glucose concentration in the blood varies, the blood properties change, and the antenna frequency shifts as a result. [That] This frequency shift is used to find out the three glucose levels. The advantage of jeans substrate is that you can wear this antenna very easily over your arm. The antenna is designed using HFSS software and tested using an arm phantom and a finger phantom designed in HFSS.
EN
The purpose of the study was to evaluate the physical and mechanical properties of various textile materials based on polyester and cotton for shoe uppers and lining. For that purpose, the influence of the ratio of a mixture of cotton and polyester fibers on the quality of the fabric was investigated. As a result, fabrics with the same composition but different yarn numbers differed from each other in specified properties. With an increase in the content of polyester, all specified properties increase except for vapor permeability, which makes it possible to correctly select the composition of fabrics for shoes.
EN
The color red has a significant presence in cultures around the world. The organic dye madder, derived from plants, has been used throughout human civilization and remains an important natural dye. The research reviews five traditional madder dyeing techniques from China, Europe, Turkey, and Japan. The techniques are applied to cotton, linen, silk, and wool fabrics, and their similarities and differences are compared and analyzed. Additionally, the environmental sustainability, resource conservation, and process efficiency of these dyeing techniques are also evaluated in this article. The chromatic value of dyed textile color was tested by means of an American Hunterlab spectrophotometer, the influence of different dyeing techniques on textile color characteristics was analyzed, and the artistic features of textile color were analyzed from the perspective of visual art.
EN
This study aims to investigate the influence of tie-dye techniques on the durability and aesthetic appeal of textiles. To address the issues of textile damage and visual aesthetics during usage, researchers conducted comparative experiments using five tie-dye fabric techniques and a wax-resist technique. The experimental results revealed that textiles processed through the folding and clamping dye method exhibited notable resistance to breakage in terms of durability. Textiles treated with the stitch and bind dye method demonstrated significant advantages over other processing methods in terms of colorfastness, fabric luster, and visual attractiveness. The study findings indicate a positive impact of tie-dye techniques on the durability and aesthetic appeal of textiles. By employing tie-dye techniques, the durability of the textiles remained uncompromised while enhancing their aesthetic appeal. This technique is suitable for everyday use, and it also improves the visual quality of textiles, making them more competitive in the market. Therefore, tie-dye techniques offer an effective and promising improvement method for the textile industry, with wide potential applications in practical production.
13
EN
On the basis of the literary sources available to the author of the article, the main milestones of the development of artistic textiles of the Kyiv region are considered. Textiles on the territory of modern Ukraine existed in all historical periods, starting with the Trypil culture, as evidenced by the impressions on the bottoms of ceramic dishes found during archaeological excavations. Antiquities researchers assume that weaving existed in the Bronze Age as well. During the times of Kyivan Rus, in addition to simple linen weaving, there was a patterned weaving and a bump on the fabric, where the pattern was applied with the help of paint and stamps cut out of wood. This is evidenced by artifacts and spinning tools found by archaeologists. Textiles acquired development even after the Tatar-Mongol oppression in the times when the Kyiv lands were under the rule of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Later, in the 17th and 18th centuries. silk manufactories were developed in Kyiv itself, where, in addition to breeding cocoons, silk fabrics were made. At that time, there were also weaving workshops at monasteries, one of which was located in the Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra. In the mid-19th to the first half of the 20th centuries, textiles became widely developed in the Kyiv region. In addition to the home weaving of artisans, local craft workshops began to supply textile goods to the market. The assortment of products included fabrics for upholstering men’s furniture, handkerchiefs, sheets, and blankets. In 1906, the Kyiv Artisan Society was created to intensify the development of textile and other industries.Textiles gained further development after the establishment of Soviet power in Ukraine. In the 1930s, weaving centers worked in Bohuslav, Pereyaslav, and Tarascha. In the post-war period, textile mills came into operation in Kyiv – the Darnytsky Silk Mill, which produced fabrics from synthetic fibers, and the Kyiv Silk Mill, which produced natural silk fabrics.
EN
This study aims to provide a great deal of insight into how risk perception and purchase intention differ for the consumer with different online shopping motives. Data were collected through a questionnaire with 359 voluntary consumers aged 18-28 living in Istanbul. 14 motives leading them to online shopping through digital platforms for textile products were defined with the Focus group technique. First, clustering analysis was conducted to define consumers according to the guiding motives in online shopping. Next, whether the consumer segments identified by these motives have different levels of risk perception and purchase intention was investigated via ANOVA analysis.
EN
This study focused on how the ISO 9001:2008 standard has influenced organisational Lean Six Sigma (LSS) implementation success. Data were collected through a survey, followed by interviews with the quality managers/representatives of 85 small and medium enterprises (SMEs) in the textile industry. Additionally, case studies on four of the textile SMEs were carried out to validate the results. Our analysis revealed that the main benefits of LSS, among others, are problem solving improvement, reduction of the quality problem, waste reduction, and increase of productivity. However, certified companies are aware of continuous improvements to tools, which ensures the continuity of improvements made by the LSS project and facilitates the integration of Lean Six Sigma tools, which can help to make better use of the Lean Six Sigma project. The type of article produced was also found to have a considerable effect on the success of the Lean Six Sigma project.
EN
Surat is one of the major textile manufacturing hubs in India, having 40% of the synthetic fabric produced in the country. The textile industry in the city has witnessed tremendous growth in the last decade, leading to many transportation-related changes within it. Textile manufacturing has different phases like weaving, processing, value addition and trading or distribution. These phases are located as clusters or pockets in different parts of the city. The scattered nature of the industry generates numerous freight trips. This study focuses on characterizing and estimating textile freight trips in the city. Establishment survey data was collected from production units located in various clusters. A multi-linear regression model for freight trips generated using the quantity of cloth produced was developed for the estimation of the total textile freight trips. Thus, this study will help the planner identify the strategic location of the textile and its allied industries as well as for freight infrastructure in the city. More so, it would help in understanding the impacts of textile freight movement on the city’s overall traffic.
EN
Researchers are using different statistical techniques for process optimisation and product development both in academia and industries. Similarly, several statistical tools are being employed in the textile industry for process optimisation during the manufacturing of different products. The purpose of this study was to analyse different Taguchi-based techniques in the multi-response optimisation of selected industrial processes and then to generalise the outcomes. Herein, six different Taguchi-based multi-response optimisation techniques, including grey relational analysis (GRA), the weighted signal-to-noise (WSN) ratio, principal component analysis, VIKOR (VlseKriterijumska Optimizacija I Kompromisno Resenje), the multiple response signal-to-noise ratio, and Fuzzy logic were compared against three data sets of industrial processes. The researchers herein optimised cotton dyeing, the finishing of textile to make them oleo-hydrophobic, and the production of rhamnolipids (bio-surfactants). The results demonstrated that the Fuzzy logic-based Taguchi method gave the best optimisation amongst all the other approaches, followed by GRA and WSN for all the selected processes. The said statistical techniques were applied to specific textile and biotechnological processes. The outcomes of this study can help researchers in practical implementation in industrial sectors. In this study, a comparative analysis of the performances of six Taguchi-based multi-response optimisation techniques was conducted for potential industrial processes, particularly textile processing.
PL
Niegarbowane odpady skórzane pochodzące z przemysłu garbarskiego są potencjalnym zagrożeniem dla środowiska naturalnego. Z drugiej jednak strony tego rodzaju odpady zawierają znaczące ilości cennego białka – kolagenu. Białko kolagenowe jest biopolimerem, który z uwagi na swoje właściwości znajduje zastosowanie w przemyśle spożywczym, kosmetycznym oraz w przemyśle biomedycznym. Obecnie na rynku dostępne są preparaty kolagenowe pozyskane z odpadów pochodzenia zwierzęcego. W pracy przedstawiono procedurę oznaczania aminokwasów w wybranych preparatach kolagenowych metodą wysokosprawnej chromatografii cieczowej i metodą spektrofotometryczną. We wszystkich próbkach oznaczono wysokie stężenia glicyny, alaniny, proliny i hydroksyproliny, a niewielkie ilości tyrozyny, seryny, waliny i izoleucyny. Zastosowana metoda chromatograficzna umożliwia szybkie i równoczesne oznaczenie 17 aminokwasów w badanych próbach. Opracowane w ramach pracy metody analityczne mogą być wykorzystane m.in. do szybkiej kontroli składu aminokwasowego kolagenu.
EN
This paper presents various constructions of flexible textile humidity resistive sensor prototypes which can be used in textronic clothing applications and can be easily integrated with fabric. They can be also used as sensors applied to sheets in hospitals and nursing homes, as well as in special medical clothing, especially for protecting elderly people. The author describes a method of manufacturing such sensors by three different techniques, such as embroidery, printing and sputtering (PVD). Also presented are electrical properties of the textile sensors under various environmental conditions. The resistance of the sensors was studied in a wide range of humidity, from 30 to 90%, and at temperatures of 30 °C and 40 °C. The author then chose the right type of textile substrate on which the sensors should be made. A microscopic examination of the upper electroconductive layer of the prototype sensors was also conducted. These novel methods of sensor creation for humidity measurement on flexible textile substrates and their comparison could be used for clothing functionalisation.
PL
W artykule przedstawiono różne konstrukcje elastycznych, rezystancyjnych czujników wilgotności, które można wykorzystać w aplikacjach tekstronicznych. Przedstawione sensory cechuje łatwość integracji z wyrobami odzieżowymi. Badane czujniki mogą być stosowane w aplikacjach szpitalnych, domach opieki, a także jako czujniki w specjalnej odzieży medycznej, przeznaczonej w szczególności do ochrony osób starszych. Autor opisał metodę produkcji takich czujników za pomocą trzech różnych technik, takich jak haftowanie, drukowanie i napylanie (PVD). Przedstawił także charakterystyki czujników tekstylnych, zmian rezystancji w funkcji wilgotności, w różnych warunkach otoczenia. Parametry czujników badano w szerokim zakresie wilgotności: 30-90% oraz w temperaturach: 30-40 °C. Autor wybrał dwa rodzaje podłoża tekstylnego, na którym wykonane są czujniki, które według niego będą odpowiednie do zastosowań w tekstronicznych aplikacji odzieżowych. Przedstawił również zdjęcia mikroskopowe warstw elektroprzewodzących prototypowych czujników, badania zmian wilgotności w warunkach laboratoryjnych na stanowisku testowym oraz warstwie pododzieżowej na ochotnikach podczas kontrolowanej próby wysiłkowej.
19
EN
Nowadays, cold plasma technology is highly involved in textile processing either to assist conventional wet-chemical processing and/or create innovative products. Plasma Surface treatment is an ergonomically simple process, but the plasma process and its effect on the fibre surface are more complex due to the interplay of many concurrent processes at a time. The efficiency of plasma treatment mainly depends on the nature of textile material and the treatment operating parameters. The main objective of this review paper is to summarise and discuss the application of plasma treatment and its effect on the pre-treatment, dyeing, printing and finishing of natural and synthetic textile fibres. However, the application of plasma technology to different types of textile substrates has not been fully addressed.
PL
Obecnie technologia obróbki plazmą jest często wykorzystywana w obróbce tekstyliów. Jej zastosowanie wspomaga konwencjonalną mokrą obróbkę chemiczną i/lub pozwala tworzyć innowacyjne produkty. Obróbka powierzchni plazmą jest procesem prostym z ergonomicznego punktu widzenia, ale proces plazmowy i jego wpływ na powierzchnię włókna są bardziej złożone ze względu na wzajemne oddziaływanie wielu współbieżnych procesów jednocześnie. Skuteczność obróbki plazmowej zależy głównie od rodzaju materiału tekstylnego oraz parametrów eksploatacyjnych obróbki. Głównym celem przedstawionego artykułu przeglądowego było podsumowanie i omówienie zastosowania obróbki plazmowej i jej wpływu na obróbkę wstępną, barwienie, drukowanie i wykańczanie naturalnych i syntetycznych włókien tekstylnych.
EN
Technological and non-technological innovations represent one of the most important and sustainable sources of competitive advantages for businesses. Industry 4.0, a new fundamental paradigm shift in industrial production and organisational innovation, as new management practices, are important issues for companies as they seek to upgrade their productivity, improve the quality of supply and retain competitiveness. Analysis of technological and non-technological innovations of the textile and apparel industry in Serbia became particularly important in the situation where the Serbian transitional economy opted to alter its growth model. This paper analyses the results of the European Manufacturing Survey conducted in manufacturing industries in a transitional economy – the Republic of Serbia. The current Serbian dataset of 2015 includes 280 observations of Serbian firms of all manufacturing industries. The empirical results indicate that textile and apparel manufacturing companies in Serbia utilise industry 4.0 and organisational innovation concepts on a very low level.
PL
Innowacje technologiczne i nietechnologiczne stanowią jedno z najważniejszych i najbardziej zrównoważonych źródeł przewagi konkurencyjnej dla przedsiębiorstw. Industry 4.0, nowa fundamentalna zmiana paradygmatu w produkcji przemysłowej i innowacjach organizacyjnych, jako nowe praktyki zarządzania, są ważnymi kwestiami dla firm, które dążą do podniesienia wydajności, poprawy jakości dostaw i utrzymania konkurencyjności. Analiza innowacji technologicznych i nietechnologicznych w przemyśle tekstylnym i odzieżowym w Serbii stała się szczególnie ważna w sytuacji, w której serbska gospodarka przejściowa zdecydowała się zmienić swój model wzrostu. W pracy przedstawiono analizę wyników badań EMS (European Manufacturing Survey) przeprowadzonych w przemyśle wytwórczym w gospodarce przejściowej Serbii. Przedstawiono serbski zestaw danych z 2015 r., który obejmował 280 przykładów serbskich firm ze wszystkich branż produkcyjnych. Wyniki empiryczne wskazały, że firmy produkujące tekstylia i odzież w Serbii wykorzystują koncepcję Industry 4.0 i innowacje organizacyjne na bardzo niskim poziomie.
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