The article presented the internal quality control tests as the element of the quality assurance in Laboratory of Testing Textile Raw Materials and Fabrics of Textile Research Institute. The results of the parameters were presented, which confirm the technical competence of tests participants working in the research laboratory and are a confirmation of reliability of the tests results performer in an accredited laboratory.
The paper presents a possibility of creating a heating matrix with application of multi-wall carbon nanotubes, introduced on the surface of textile product by film printing, connected to a DC electric circuit equipped with a temperature control system. Performed investigations allowed to optimize a process of textile heaters’ creation in terms of the matrix shape, amount of active agent (multi-walled nanotubes) introduced on the fabric and fiber composition of textile substrates.
Cotton is a basic raw material processed in the textile industry all over the world. Some new cotton products have been developed thanks to the inventions and efforts of scientists and engineers dealing with cotton. One of the innovative cotton products is SPINAIR yarn by Kurabo (Japan). It is so called “hollow” yarn made of cotton and PVA fibres. PVA fibres are introduced into the yarn during the spinning process. Next they are dissolved and removed in fabric finishing, thanks to which in the final product the yarn is composed only of cotton fibres. The yarn has been developed to improve the thermal insulation of cotton fabrics. Due to the dissolving of PVA fibres, the structure of yarn and fabrics made of it is loose and porous. The air trapped inside the yarn between the cotton fibres increases the thermal resistance of fabrics. Within the framework of the work presented composite “hollow” yarn 42 tex made of cotton (80%) and modified PVA (Polyvinyl alcohol) fibres (20%) was investigated within the range of its structural, mechanical and technological parameters. Woven fabric was then manufactured with the application of the 42 tex CO80/ PVA20 yarn in the weft direction. Investigation of the manufactured woven fabric with Alambeta confirmed that fabric with weft yarn 42 tex CO80/PVA20 is characterised by a higher thermal resistance and warmer sensation while touching than that made of 42 tex cotton rotor yarn in the weft.
PL
Bawełna jest podstawowym surowcem włókienniczym przerabianym w przemyśle tekstylnym na całym świecie. Dzięki wysiłkom i inwencji twórczej naukowców opracowane zostały innowacyjne wyroby włókiennicze. Jednym z nich jest przędza SPINAIR firmy KURABO (Japonia). Jest to przędza z włókien bawełnianych i PVA(alkohol poliwinylowy) zwana przez producenta przędzą kanalikową. Włókna PVA są wprowadzane do przędzy podczas procesu przędzenia. Następnie są one rozpuszczane i wypłukiwane w procesie wykańczania. Dzięki temu w końcowym produkcie przędza składa się wyłącznie z włókien bawełnianych, jednakże jej struktura jest mniej zwarta niż standardowej przędzy bawełnianej. Przędza SPINAIR została opracowana w celu zwiększenia izolacyjności cieplnej. W ramach prezentowanej pracy wykonano badania przędzy SPINAIR o masie liniowej 42 tex wykonanej z bawełny (80%) i modyfikowanych włókien PVA (20%). Badania obejmowały parametry strukturalne, mechaniczne i technologiczne. Ponadto przędzę SPINAIR zastosowano jako wątek w tkaninie o splocie płóciennym. Pomiary wykonane za pomocą przyrządu Alambeta potwierdziły, że tkanina z przędzą wątkową 42 tex CO80/PVA20 charakteryzuje się wyższym oporem cieplnym.
The development of modern fabrics with heating function is a result of increasing requirements of users towards high-tech clothing. The article describes the possibility of application of the electroconductive yarns in the heating textile materials. The test stand for evaluation of the possibility of heating the material has been developed for the studies. Two variants of knitted fabrics with different contents of metal fibers have been elaborated. An infrared camera has been used for observing thermal effects of the electroconductive knitted fabrics powered by electricity.
W artykule przedstawiono badania nad możliwością wykorzystania spektrofotometru w pomiarach koloru i klasyfikacji bawełny. Dotychczas kolor bawełny jest oceniany za pomocą linii HVI (High Volume Instrument). Współrzędne barwy: współczynnik odbicia światła (Rd) i stopień zażółcenia (+b) wg HVI są specyficzne dla bawełny, natomiast nie stosuje się ich do oceny barwy innych materiałów. Tymczasem na całym świecie w pomiarach barwy stosowane są składowe barwy w trójwymiarowej przestrzeni barwowej CIELab. Przeprowadzone badania pozwoliły na wyznaczenie równań regresji, które umożliwiają obliczanie wskaźników (Rd) i (+b) w oparciu o wartości współrzędnych barwy L* i b* otrzymywane za pomocą spektrofotometru.
EN
The colour grade of cotton is determined by a degree of the reflectance (Rd) and yellowness (+b). These parameters are instrumentally measured by the HVI. Both (Rd) and (+b) are specific for cotton, whereas all over the world colour assessment is performed in the globally recognized CIE L*a*b* colour system. The aim of this work was to analyse application of a spectrophotometer for cotton colour assessment and colour grading. 48 cotton samples of different origin were measured in the range of their colour parameters by means of both HVI and spectrophotometer Datacolor 650. Regression analysis carried out on a basis of the experimental data allowed determining equations which enabled calculation of (Rd) and (+b) parameters on a basis of the L* and b* results obtained from the spectrophotometer. Experimental verification based on 34 cotton samples different than those used for the model building confirmed the good quality of predicting the values of the (Rd) and (+b) parameters by means of the elaborated regression equations.
The development of modern fabrics with heat function is a result of increasingly requirements of users towards high-tech clothing. The article describes the possibility of apply the electroconductive yarns in the heating textile materials. The test stand for evaluation the possibility of heating the material has been developed for these studies. Two variants of fabric with different contents of metal fibers have been elaborated. To observe thermal effects of the electroconductive fabric powered by electricity an infrared camera was used.
By means of the OASYSŽ (Optical Assessment System through Yarn Simulation) there is possible to simulate an appearance of yarn and fabrics: woven and knitted. In the same way the quality of yarns can be assessed from the point of view of their usefulness for different textile applications. In the paper the exemplary visualisations of yarn and fabric were presented based on the real and ideal yarns.
OASYS® (Optical Assessment System through Yarn Simulation) is very interesting measuring device. It enables the measurement of the following yarn parameters: diameter and its irregularity, the number of imperfections - thick places, thin places and neps - per 1000 m. Additional feature of the OASYS® is a possibility to simulate an appearance of woven and knitted fabrics made of the measured yarn. Investigation of big number of yarn variants showed a statistically significant correlation between the results from the OASYS® and Uster® tester in the range of the yarn irregularity. Significant correlation was also stated between the results from OASYS® and Uster® tester in the range of the number of thick places and neps per 1000 m. The values of the yarn diameter measured by the OASYS® are lower than values calculated according to Ashenhurst's equation.
OASYS® (Optical Assessment System through Yarn Simulation) is very interesting measuring device. It enables the measurement of the following yarn parameters: diameter and its irregularity, the number of imperfections - thick places, thin places and neps - per 1000 m. Additional feature of the OASYS® is a possibility to simulate an appearance of woven and knitted fabrics made of the measured yarn. Investigation of big number of yarn variants showed a statistically significant correlation between the results from the OASYS® and Uster® tester in the range of the yarn irregularity. Significant correlation was also stated between the results from OASYS® and Uster® tester in the range of the number of thick places and neps per 1000 m. The values of the yarn diameter measured by the OASYS® are lower than values calculated according to Ashenhurst's equation.
The aim of carried out tests was possibility usage of the thermal camera for evaluation of the thermal insulation properties of textiles. Moreover possibilities of the thermovision effect application for evaluation of the structure evenness of textile materials and their surface properties were analyzed.
The article discusses four interlaboratory round test in scope of accredited test methods, organized by the Textile Research Institute, Laboratory of Testing Textile Raw Materials and Fabrics. Interlaboratory comparison no I: Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using the Strip method according to PN-EN ISO 11935-1:2002 and Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using the grab method-according to PN-EN ISO 13935-2:2002. Interlaboratory comparison no II: Determination of single-end breaking force and elongation at break according to PN-EN ISO 2062:1997. Interlaboratory comparison no III: Determination of tensile strength and elongation for nonwovens according to PN-EN 29073-3:1994. Interlaboratory comparison no IV: Determination of water-vapour resistance of multi-layer textile-materials. In presented tests different laboratories took part: accredited by Polish Centre for Accreditation, foreign and industrial.
The article discusses four interlaboratory round test in scope of accredited test methods, organized by the Textile Research Institute, Laboratory of Testing Textile Raw Materials and Fabrics. Interlaboratory comparison no I: Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using of the strip method according to PN-EN ISO 13935-1:2002 and Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using the grab method-according to PN-EN ISO 13935-2:2002. lnterlaboratory comparison no II: Determination of single-end breaking force and elongation at break according to PN-EN ISO 2062:1997. Interlaboratory comparison no III: Determination of tensile strength and elongation for nonwovens according to PN-EN 29073-3:1994. Interlaboratory comparison no IV: Determination of water-vapour resistance of multi-layer textile-materials. In presented tests different laboratories took part: accredited by Polish Centre for Accreditation, foreign and industrial.
W Instytucie Architektury Tekstyliów przeprowadzono badania porównawcze dojrzałości włókien bawełny metodą Causticaire oraz na systemie AFIS, który jest w posiadaniu Instytutu Architektury Tekstyliów. Badania dojrzałości i grubości włókien na FMT przeprowadzono w Faserinstitut Bremen. Ponadto wskaźniki grubości włókien bawełny badano na systemie AFIS i HVI. Zarówno system AFIS, jak i FMT są kalibrowane za pomocą metody komputerowej analizy obrazu.
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